✈️⏪ Breguet Type 20 ref. 2057 Flyback Chronograph ⏩✈️

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A missed opportunity.

The mid-'90s revival of the Type 20 chronograph was integral to the survival of the Maison into the next century.

After the greed of Brothers Chaumet almost brought down the entire house on the heels of one of the most inspirational revivals in horological history, Investcorp—the Bahraini investment firm that took over the company—had the good sense to focus on the "craft of Breguet," in the same way that Daniel Roth, François Bodet et al had reinterpreted the "art of Breguet" for our time.

From that time-honored craft, Investcorp handpicked the Type 20: the mid-century flyback chronograph that was first conceived according to the specs of the Marine Nationale and that was also sold, in certain variations and through the decades, to civilians.

The Type 20/XX is not only an iconic pilot's chronograph. It is also one of the most perfect examples of mid-century horological design where utility and aesthetics meet. (The "big-eye" counter at 3 o'clock, for instance, is as pleasing to the eye as it is useful: as a 15-minute totalizer it is distinctively divided to 3-minute intervals with bold, luminous hashmarks and calibrated exactly for the amount of time necessary to prepare an aircraft for launch.)

It thus made sense that such a timepiece would be the perfect platform to inspire new generation of collectors and enthusiasts. . .

Investcorp's mission was, by and large, a success; they had returned the legacy maker to profitability by the time they handed over the keys of the manufacture to the Swatch Group.

The ref. 3800, far from being perfect, nevertheless offered something quite distinctive in the market. By adopting the classic revival case design with the entirely fluted caseband and extended downturned teardrop lugs, it exhibited a unique aesthetic flair. In terms of its proportions, and beyond the flyback functionality, the piece offered a more elegant take on the pilot's watch and a more compact alternative to the sports chronograph.

The case design of the new series harkens back to the original milspec and civilian versions of the mid-century, and it is difficult not to appreciate the angular and toolish styling as a fan of "The Original" (especially as it is embodied in the scalloped finish of the lugs!).

Nevertheless, and with all the pomp and circumstance surrounding the new hi-beat, column-wheel, vertical-clutch movement, I'd have much preferred a more compact version powered by a slightly modernized take on the Lemania CH-27 (which Breguet is _literally_ sitting on!!!). I can learn to live with the unseemly date window at 4:30, but I can't live with a Breguet Type 20 that looks and feels like every other contemporary "pilot's chronograph". . .

Call me a purist, go ahead!

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[jmbaug]

Thanks for showing love to Breguet 💙 My favourite brand 😊

J.

[tomthompson]

Its really sweet looking, but it wont fit under a shirt cuff easily, , it may not fit under an overcoat sleeve easily either.