Husqvarna 235 fuel line, vent valve and plug, and bogging

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530029868 plug

530026119 check valve

545078302 fuel line

I describe my journey with the Husqvarna 235 models and the final diagnosis of both units firing and bogging. Many great videos out there on how to replace the carburetor and fuel lines. I discuss the importance of using the correct size fuel line so that no gas can get onto the exterior top of the fuel tank ultimately plugging the check valve/plug.
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I would like to thank you very much for your understanding of small engine repair and also sharing this with guys like us who enjoy doing it!

eugeneramsey
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I was having the same issues with my Husqvarna 235. I ended up drilling the old vent and duck bill valve out and replaced with a piece of fuel line that fit snug in the hole and put an external fuel vent on the fuel line. The new fuel vent did not solve my idling issues. I ended up taking the intake and sealing it to the cylinder using Moto seal. I also used Moto seal between the carburetor and the intake, that seems to have made my issues 100% better. An easy way to check for air leaks around the intake is to let the saw idle and squirt a little bit of brake or carb cleaner around the intake to see if it stalls out. If your saw stalls out it means you have a serious air leak that needs to be taken care of, once you get the air leaks sealed up your saw will run a whole lot better. Thank you for the video you did a really good job.

stihlhead
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Thanks, heard about this vent but never seen any videos on it, my 235 has the same problems so i will have a look at this now i have the carb off😁

peterharwood
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The air vent should be in the cap gas tank because the location of that air vent shall accumulate the residue of the fuel oil and the wood powder, then it will be easy to maintain.
I have that problem I searched a lot to find the location of that air vent I couldn't find it except with you.
(Thanks for sharing)

I realised that was the problem because when my chainsaw stopped and when I opened the cap the air was suced in, so in conclusion, it is better when starting to turn it on to not pump a lot of fuel so it will not exceed the carb out and then it will be reabsorbed with the wood powder.

FaddyMH
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I have the same saw, same problem, I had guessed it was the vent, after the saw would start when I removed the fuel cap, each time it would run for a minute. Thank you great video

larrymotes
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Great video!!!, after seeing this I decided to take the top hose off the primer which connects to the tank next to the vent that you perfectly explained, and that solved the issue for me so far, I don't need the primer anyway, the choke is good enough. So I'm using the primer hose now as a vent.

HOTRhuntinontherock
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MANY MANY THANKS ....GREAT MAN TO BOTHER TO HELP PEOPLE WITH PROBLEMS.THANKYOU..GODBLESS

thesaint
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Many Thanks. Your issues matched those of my 236 model (the 235, 236 and 240 appear to use the same components) Couldn't find the fuel vent, after working through ignition/carb etc., until I watched your excellent video. After clearing the vent (without removal) and a good squirt of CRC Clean-R-Carb - the saw started easily, produced more power/cutting effort with no bogging down
and no longer stopped when idling. Darn stupid place to hide a fuel vent, Huh? Well done, you !

colinandjennytaylor
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Great video, and a big help, Thanks. it covers a subject that does not have much presence online. A blocked vent / duckbill creates vacuum in the fuel tank, when using a vacuum pump for diagnosis I do believe that the vent is supposed to be only a small leak, only lets enough air in to replace the space created when fuel is used and yet keep gas fumes in the tank. So the testing pump will still be able to create a vacuum but will leak down slowly. Mine was plugged on a new saw, neothec husky 365 clone. The screen had what looked like orange paint overspray on it. When the saw was hot and shut off I could hear a slight "whistle" the air getting sucked in through the screen believe it or not.

Kevin-jdrm
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I have Husqvarna 240 and I drilled the golden screen and replaced it with small fitting glued with JB Weld. I connected the tubing to a small check valve from Amazon. It works great now although I didn't have luck with aftermarket carburetor and had to buy original Zama carb. Et the end of the tubing I installed weighted air filter from my RC supply to protect the check valve from small debris

StagArmslower
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Great video! I had this exact problem with a Stihl, it would run perfect for a few minutes, and then slowly die; it wasn't the carb adjustments at all, it was the gas tank vent! If you can show the removal of the vent and also the removal of the vent and the replacement of the vent itself that would be awesome!! I have not seen a good video focused on the identification, repair, and replacement of the gas tank vent itself! Thanks again!!

ShoshonSun
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You can use a small screw, and screw it in the screen and pull the screen out and the duck bill valve will be under the screen, pull the duckbill out and replace both of them.

jerrysoutherland
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I never left a comment after Isaw this a month ago, but thanks so much for this video. My saw has been pretty much dead for 10 years after only using a few times. The vent was absolutely plugged full of oily sawdust. Had so many people work on it trying to fix it and it just would never run and bogged down like you describe. I made a tube out of air cleaner felt and super glued it in the corner over the vent and sqeezed the top closed to make a felt cap about an inch long. This helps to provide enough breathing room that it doesn't clog back up, just like the air filter on the carb. Anyway, runs great after so many years taunting me about the wasted money I spent buying it and time and money wasted trying to fix it. Thanks again 😉👍

TgWags
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Excellent Video My Friend, Darn tank vent.

THC
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Thanks Bro. I have a Husqvarna 240 x-torque that has been driving me crazy doing the same thing. Has been taken to 2 shops and still does same thing. I was going to look for problem myself and thanks to you I know what is happening.

leebrech
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I have noticed that when I remove the gas cap there seems to be a sucking sound of air. Probably caused by vent not working. Thanks for this video.

frankrosenthal
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Thanks for this. Most useful knowledge.

bangerseamen
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yes there's a similar model it's my 236 same probs reckon..im thinking of drilling a tiny hole in fuel cap or alongside the air plug you showed to let the pooled fuel out...

grantfryer
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OMG!!!! This exact thing happened to me wish the fcuk I saw this video first would have saved me so much time energy and money.

lobdsk
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Thank you this was very helpful in diagnosing the problems with my own 235e.

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