Dolce & Gabbana Spring Summer 2022 @Part13 Milan Fashion Week Fashion Show

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Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana aren’t immune to the Y2K fever sweeping through fashion this season, and why should they be? The year 2000 was peak Dolce & Gabbana, a moment when the glorious excesses of their aesthetic were swinging the fashion pendulum from the minimalist ’90s to the go-go early ’00s. Dolce and Gabbana have picked up on the renewed interest in the era. Their young assistants are enthusiastic about that part of their archive, and on-the-rise Gen Z pop stars are requesting vintage pieces, too.

Backstage Gabbana said, “We thought we’d do something not similar, but in the same mood as that 2000 collection. We’re coming out of a dark time”—meaning the pandemic—“and we want to enjoy life. We want light.” Their Metropol venue glinted like a diamond, with a mirrored runway, a faceted backdrop, and no fewer than 75 spotlights, but the set had nothing on the clothes and accessories themselves, which were tricked out in crystals by the kilo, even more than the men’s collection they presented in June.

Clicking through their 21-year-old collection is to clock parallels between then and now: the pelmet mini and sheer shirt combos, the beaded fringe skirts, the exposed lingerie, and logo underwear. Jennifer Lopez starred on a couple of T-shirts here in what looked like D and G’s tribute to another brand with staying power. But there were some other forward-thinking updates. Upcycling is also a trend they’ve picked up on, and they bought a stash of used militaria to deconstruct and remake to their liking. A camo jacket was lined in leopard and cargos were sliced off at the knee, with the cast-off scraps patch-worked into towering boots.

One way the industry hasn’t changed enough since the turn of the millennium is in its one-dimensional insistence on uniformly thin models. Dolce and Gabbana clearly have their eyes on the generation that’s coming up. In fact, Gabbana reported enthusiastically that the average age of their shopper post-pandemic is going down. To really engage with that demographic, they could think about a wider range of body types. Sexy comes in all sizes.
Dolce & Gabbana (Italian pronunciation: [ˈdoltʃe e ɡɡabˈbaːna])[2][3] is an Italian luxury fashion house[4] founded in 1985 in Legnano by Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.[5]

They met each other in Milan in 1980 and designed for the same fashion house. In 1982, they established a designer consulting studio; in time it grew to become "Dolce & Gabbana". They presented their first women's collection in 1985[6] in Milan, where a year later their store would open its doors.

In 1988, they launched a leotard line, and in 1989 they began designing underwear and swimming costumes. Dolce & Gabbana started to export their products to Japan and other countries including the United States, where they founded their own showroom in 1990. In 1992, the same year they presented their men's collection, they also launched their first perfume Dolce & Gabbana. They won the Woolmark award in 1991, and Perfume's Academy "Most Feminine Flavor of the Year" in 1993 for their fragrance Dolce & Gabbana Parfum. By the end of the 1990s, the company's revenues were around US$500 million and in 2003 their revenue reached $633 million. By 2005, their turnover was €600 million.
Early collections
The first collection from the design duo was shown in October 1985[6][8] alongside five other up-and-coming Italian labels as part of Milan Fashion Week. The two did not have enough money to hire models or provide accessories for them, so they sought help from their friends. The models (their friends) simply wore their personal items to complement the clothing. They used a bed sheet that Dolce had brought from home as their stage curtain.[9]

The pair labeled their first collection Real Women, due in part to the use of local women as models on the runway.[8] Sales from their first collection were disappointing enough for Gabbana to cancel the fabric order they'd put in to create their second collection. However, Dolce's family offered to help meet their costs when the two visited them in Sicily over Christmas, while incidentally, the fabric company did not receive the cancellation notice in time so the fabric was ready for them back in Milan upon their return.[10] They produced the next collection in 1986 and opened their first store that same year.[8] Michael Gross wrote of their third collection in a 1992 interview, "They were a secret known only to a handful of Italian fashion editors. Their few models changed behind a rickety screen. They called their collection of T-shirt-cotton and elastic-silk pieces, Transformation." The clothing in this collection came with instructions on the seven different ways a piece could be worn in an outfit, as the wearer could use Velcro and snaps to alter the clothing's form.[11]