How To Replace Factory Plastic Injected U-Joints

Step by step instructions showing you how to replace those pesky factory U-joints with plastic injected pins.

Filming equipment:

Tags:
how to replace u joints with plastic pins,plastic injected u joint replacement,plastic u joint replacement,plastic pin u joint replacement,nylon pin u joint replacement,how to replace factory u joints,how to replace gm u joints,nylon u joint replacement,how to replace u joints with nylon pins,how to replace nylon u joints,how to replace oem u joints,how to replace chevy u joints,how to replace ram u joints,how to replace ford u joints,how to replace dodge u joints

[DrivelineMaster]

Lot's of good comments. As an instructor of automotive technology we teach not to use a hammer. Young hammer swinger tend to miss a lot. There are U-Joint press tools on the market just for this job. As an old tech I can tell you that I have replaced a ton and I mean a ton of u-joints with a hammer and never had a problem but you do need to be careful and work smart. Hammering sockets will mushroom your socket and they won't fit on your1/2" drive anymore. I do use a torch to melt out my nylon and it does work well but this video uses excessive heat and I knock out the cap right way while the nylon is still soft. 1, it makes it easier and 2, you can clean out the nylon from the groove in the yoke with a pick or small screw driver because it's still soft. I agree, the zert goes in last and I agree you tap on the yoke while rotating the joint to align the needle bearings at the end of the job. A big concern is damage to the driveshaft by how it is held in the vise and damage or pinching the yokes closer together during removal. I have never seen a yoke explode from changing the temper because it was heated, that doesn't mean that it couldn't happen. Pressing the cap out without heating it could cause excessive force and pinch the yokes if not done correctly. I'm an old dog, so I will continue to heat and hammer with caution and common sense but there are better less damaging ways that this should be used to perform this job.

[harrymayhugh]

I've been working on car since 1964 still working on them as much as I can with all my health problems now in my '70s lol but you guys did a fantastic job I watch many of these videos just to see what people do on them You guys are one of the best ones I've watched You are very thorough and conscientious and I just thought it was one of the best videos for car guys Great job

[trillophresh]

You literally have the easiest tutorial from the 10 videos I’ve watched so far! THANK YOU

[x-man]

For the less equipped home mechanic; You don't need an acetylene torch for this job. A propane torch does it well but even a decent heat gun will work, it just takes longer. Also, if you are working by yourself, do the pounding on the floor. A driveshaft falling from bench height on the foot hurts and you could damage the shaft itself too. I've never used a vise to do this job, it's fine to do so but if you don't have one you don't need one.

[powerwagon]

I just did my front driveshaft today. I pressed out one side without heat then one side with heat (propane torch) which made it a little
easier. I used a Dremmel with a small sanding drum and wire wheel to remove rust and installed the caps with anti-seize.

[davidtyndall]

I have replaced many, many U-joints in a vise but I don't hammer them out or in. Use two sockets, one large and one a little smaller than the joint cap, and press the caps out by pressing one cap through the yoke and then press the cross back through the yoke to remove the first cap. Takes a little longer but less risk of getting metal in you eye.

[ghostch]

when installing put a small dab of grease on outside of each end cap to hold a flat washer in between each end cap and vise .it gives the extra deph for the snap ring with out hammering hope you understand what im saying

[gsprof]

The one thing no one’s mentioned, the grease fitting has to be on the compression side of the rotation of the shaft. If it’s on the opposite side (being stretched) the joint can crack at the threaded opening for the fitting. I personally don’t use the joints with grease fittings have broken to many granted high horsepower applications but have non-greasable ones go 100, 000 +. I also put a small dab of synthetic grease in the caps to help hold the needle bearings in place, but not enough to hydraulic the cap from seating all the way. Also never try pressing hammering etc joint out w/o heating nylon out, your guaranteed to bend the ears

[huxleywolfkin]

You guys is a video is a life saver. I was struggling with this until I saw that you could do it with a vice and hammer Because the only videos I other saw was using a press

[joerusso]

I've changed the ones with both style clips, thought I was nuts that I couldn't find them until I came across this video, saved me so many hours on my g body project, , thank you much

[ladamyre]

This is how they taught me at the GM Training College in Atlanta: The classes were on Vibration Diagnosis and Driveline Geometry and Maintenance.

NEVER put a driveshaft in a vise and never pound on U-joint caps with the shaft as the anvil. Put the YOKE on the vise jaws, not the drive shaft tube. Put all of the new joint caps in first by squeezing them in the vise and then free up the clip grooves by hammering on the caps with the yoke as the anvil. Free up the joint if it's stiff by hammering the yoke one way, then the other. You don't need to pound the inside of the yoke, the yoke is cast and will move, let the joint move the yoke. If it's not completely free when you're done, the joint won't last long. Greasing it after will not free up the joint any at all. It's likely that is why the original joint went bad in the first place. They'll run hot if there's more than 2 degrees of angle and cook the grease out of the joint.

If you get a comeback with a vibration as the complaint, you've bent a driveshaft. Your technique is average: not bad, but definitely shadetree style. You will wind up damaging more fragile equipment.

Oh, and wait until you're done before you put in the Zerk nipple. On some HD joints you won't be able to get the cross in the yoke if the Zerk is already in.

[normnichols]

I recommend using a flat washer to press the cap in further with the vice after it is flush rather than hammering it. You will have more control and won't have to use the hammer to loosen it up afterwards.

[keithcull]

I just cut them with a zip disc then press the bearing caps out, quick, easy and no damage .

[christopherandrus]

Excellent video, these damn plastic injected ujoints been giving me a heck of a time !!! This made life alot easier for me !! Thank you fellas 👍👍👍

[mikesnifferpippets]

Thanks, I totally forgot about these plastic pieces

[johncoffelt]

Simply add a couple of washers in between the jaw of the vise and the cap and run the vise down again, no need to pound on a new u-joint.

[carloslicho]

THANKS FOR THE VIDEO, ITS VERY WELL EXPLAINED. MEXICAN TRUCKS DONT HAVE THIS KIND OF U-JOINTS WITH PLASTIC INJECTED PINS... WE LEARN SOMETHING NEW TODAY. THANKS. YOU ROCKS

[scottflores]

I had a 78 Cheyenne Chevy blazer with a 4 inch lift it would go through U joints so I became a professional, until I looked at my 2003 Z71 Tahoe. I was like WTF ....lol thank God you had a video👍🤙

[smartin]

Thanks for this video. It helped me get the job done.

[davin]

3:18 who followed those instructions??😂😂