Scarpa up the ante: The Generator and Generator Mid

In a day and age where shoes seem to be getting softer and softer, the quest to find a supportive trad shoe feels increasingly tough. Lovely though it is to feel each and every rugosity beneath your feet, there's no benefit to that if you're not able to stand on it for 30 minutes whilst fiddling in a wire, building a belay, or trying not to have a panic attack. The Generator and Generator Mid buck the trend, with bagfuls of support and structure which promise all-day comfort and an impressive level of performance. 

#tradclimbing #crackclimbing

Intro 00:00
What's it for? 01:31
Performance 02:37
Low or Mid? 07:25
Generator vs TC Pro 09:13
Summary 10:58

[jasongoughuk]

Thanks for another great review! 😊

I saw your Scarpa Vapor S review and how much you loved that shoe - and so do I 😆 so I wondered how you sized your Generator compared to the Vapor S? Same EU size or slightly different?

Thank you 🙏🏻

[jackgraham]

I really like these boots, they are great for all types of climbing in my opinion!

[galaxyguy]

I’m so interested 😁 and they look really cool! I’m gonna try the generator mid personally cause I’m in the US 😁

[gyateste]

my feet are asymmetrical, and I was fortunate enough to try both the tc pro and the generator mid. my approach shoes are 41, and i tried them both first with 40.5. the generator mid were extremely painful at the toe box, but the tc pro were snug, but a bit too big, so i downsized to 40, and it fitted like a glove. everything around my feet felt comfortable and snug, while if i had chosen the generator mid, it would have been roomie and tight at all the wrong places, so the decision were simple. I cant wait climb outdoors with them.

[lucasm]

Ah yes the three horsemen edging cracks and sensitivity

[grigorbrowning]

I'll be interested to try these. The Maestro-mid was a shoe I wanted to like but the ankle area was terrible for my feet (EU39). It felt like Scarpa had simply shrunk everything down from the larger sizes without much thought - the cuff seam sat directly on my ankle bone, offering discomfort in place of protection. It does sometimes feel that shoe designers don't adjust heel details well across the small end of the size range.

[charlessamson]

Have you ever tried the Evolv equivalent : the Yosemite Bum?
Trying the Generator out in a store, it felt like it butt against the front of my big toe like the agonizing maestros. I am wondering if this would go away after wearing them in.
The yosemite bums seem comfier for me but they don't seem as rigid.

[davidmcgregor]

As a long time scarpa fan (and keen to try the new Generator should my size ever become available ☹️) I was interested to see in a recent UKC report that Angus Kille sent The Meltdown in a pair of Maestros. Included amongst the pics was one of him working it in a pair of Generators.

It would seem at least on this climb and for Angus the Maestros won out over the Generators in the extreme edging department.

Kinda curious as the Generator appears definitely this stiffer and hence potentially better at edging of the two.

[thesii]

Curious that these didn't get a lot of love on MP relative to the new TC? But then again, neither have any of the other new high tops...

(also hey when's that veloce lace review can I get a pre-review review did they fix the heel plz say yes)

[korbendallas]

I ve tried generator mid recently. I did not find them comfortable because of the horizontal seam in the back of the shoe:(

[SileDevil]

but is it better than the OG Five Ten Blanco? probably not..still looking for a shoe that can replace the Blancos.

[thomaslees]

I have a pair of the Scarpa generators. The shoe itself is great. But the tongue is really poorly designed and it came apart after just 3 climbs (two indoors, one outdoor). They are marketed as a tough trad shoe but they fell apart extremely quickly. Would definitely not recommend.

[Tallerdrop]

Is this the replacement for the Maestro?

[lizardking]

I tried on a couple pairs of the mids, comfortable as can be but my heel did not fit the shoe at all. Kept slipping out of the heel pocket as opposed to TCs which locked it right in. Any reason that may be?