Is Cheaper Oil Better? 2 Stroke Oils put to the test and the results might SHOCK you!

Today we test the "myth" that you should never run marine 2 stroke oil in your air cooled 2 Stroke engine.

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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!

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Although very informative, these videos are for entertainment purposes. Please use all possible safety precautions when repairing and operating your small engine equipment.

[danblack]

Hi Bri, I was an automatic transmission engineer that designed and developed automatics for 35 years. I'm also a small engine mechanic hobbiest that have repaired over 10, 000 small engines. Anyway, when I worked at Chrysler I got involved with new ATF programs for our transmissions and had several meetings with our oil additive suppliers. Anyway we talked extensively about 2 cycle oil additive packages just for my own interest. They told me that the air cooled oils contains ash in it and it's not used in marine applications due to fouling issues of the plug at idle since many boaters troll with their outboard motors. Ash content is very durable for high speed and high temp 2 stroke applications especially when mixing at 50:1. They told me marine oils are fine for air cooled motors if you just run it richer at like 32:1 or 40:1. I always use marine oil at 32:1 for my chainsaws and blowers and have never had a problem. The additive suppliers also said that any TCW3 is fine because they have to pass the same tests as any other oil which is the 70 hp Evinrude motor run for 100 hours at 4000 rpms mixed at 100:1. Therefore I buy the cheap Supertech 2 cycle oil from Walmart. The only difference is the smell may be a little different however performance is the same. So the moral of the story is you are correct. If spending big dollars for high tech oil is your thing, then do it. However if you run marine 2 cycle oil just run it a little richer for your air cooled 2 strokes. BTW I run my outboard at 40:1.

[philipbreau]

Message to Chickanic: Thank you so much for this video. Not only have you shown there doesn't seem to be difference between the oils, but you created a huge discussion forum on the subject. Also a thanks to all who have posted their experiences and successes. It's a real rabbit hole of information. This is what Youtube should be about.

[electricboatal]

I enjoyed the oil video immensely. Many years ago in the mid sixties I was an engineer working for Kawasaki and later for Yamaha. The oil question was a frequent topic of conversation between all of us in the R&D departments. Back then there were few true 2 stroke oils that were specifically designed for air cooled racing engines. If you were racing a very high performance 2 stroke engine Castor oils held up quite well compared to the average 4 stroke oils that most people would use. Castor oil worked exceptionally well except that the piston and rings were very fouled with carbon deposits. 4 stroke oils were marginal at best. They had to be run at 20 to 1 ratio so they smoked a lot and didn’t produce the best results. With the development of specialized 2 stroke racing oils things became much better for the racing engines. The street legal bikes had a system of oil injection that worked fairly well and it had some amount of adjustment to get a better blend. It wasn’t until Torco developed its 2 stroke injection oil called Power Stroke that the automated injection system became more effective. It was a 40 to 1 ratio for normal riding and 32 to 1 for racing purposes. It was definitely a game changer in engine reliability and very low carbon deposits. For us racers we were in heaven until various other manufacturers developed higher performance oils that we gladly accepted and put to use.
Today I use the Stihl little bottles because they are convenient and if I buy a new piece of equipment from Stihl and a 6 pack of their oil they automatically double my warranty. I have never needed the additional warranty but it feels better to have it.
I applaud your side by side testing because you have proven a fairly well known option of engineers that oils that have a manufacturer approval rating are all going to do a pretty good job if used properly.
A little aside is that I use full synthetic oils in all of my road vehicles because of the greater heat protection. It is quite possible that I will never need the extra protection but I am in my 70’s now and I don’t want to do any maintenance on any of my equipment unless absolutely necessary.
I do love your style of sharing your gained knowledge in a useful and informative way. Bravo.
Best Regards Al Hartley

[PT-iexj]

Per Google's Gemini: Differences between Marine and Garden Equipment 2-Cycle Oils:

1. Certification and Additives:
The primary difference lies in certification. Marine 2-cycle oils typically meet the NMMA TC-W3 standard, formulated for water-cooled outboard motors operating in saltwater environments. This standard emphasizes:
Anti-corrosion additives: To resist saltwater's corrosive effects on engine components.
Low ash formulation: To minimize spark plug fouling and exhaust port deposits in water-cooled engines that often operate for extended periods at both low and high RPMs.

Garden equipment oils, often JASO FD certified, prioritize:
High lubricity: To withstand the high temperatures and friction in air-cooled high RPM engines.
Detergent and dispersant additives: To control combustion chamber deposits including from ash. (Ash is the dry solids produced by the combustion process.)

2. Using Marine Oil in Portable Equipment:
While technically possible, using marine oil in air-cooled equipment is generally not recommended. The low ash content, crucial for marine engines when running at slow speeds, may not provide sufficient lubrication for high-friction, high-temperature garden equipment. Oils for air-cooled motors contain additives that purposely produce a controlled amount of ash of a type that improves lubricity after all the wet oil has burned off. Not having this dry lubricant can increase wear and tear, leading to premature engine failure.

3. Combustion Chamber Deposits and Temperature:
Prolonged operation at high temperatures can accelerate deposit formation. The key lies in maintaining proper operating temperature. Both marine and garden equipment oils are formulated to control deposits WITHIN THEIR RESPECTIVE OPERATING TEMPERATURE RANGES.

4. High Ash and Lubricity:
High ash content can improve lubricity to an extent. However, excessive ash can:
Increase spark plug fouling, leading to ignition problems.
Contribute to exhaust port blockage, reducing engine performance.
Therefore, modern oils prioritize balanced formulations that offer adequate lubrication without sacrificing other performance aspects.

5. Synthetic Oils and Universal Applicability:
Synthetic oils generally offer several advantages, including:
Improved high-temperature performance compared to conventional mineral oils.
Enhanced resistance to wear and tear.
Reduced deposit formation.

While some universal synthetic oils claim suitability for both marine and air-cooled applications, it's crucial to consult your equipment manufacturer's recommendations. Not all universal oils may meet the specific needs of marine or garden equipment.

Conclusion:
While both marine and garden equipment use 2-cycle oils, their specific formulations cater to the unique operating environments of each application. Using the appropriate oil ensures optimal performance, longevity, and protection for your machinery.

[dr.detroit]

Great video! My particular experience: At one time, I was an avid snowmobile rider. Then, my back went bad, and after I sold the sleds and trailer, I had several gallons of leftover Polaris Blue snowmobile oil, from the mid-late 90's. It's mostly been an expedient, since I had so much of it, but I've been using this in all of my two strokes, some as old as 1967, no problems so far. For all my 4 strokes including cars and lawn and garden stuff I use any pure synthetic 5w/30 - 10w/30 oil made by Warren Oil Co, or Warren Distributing. Again, no problems with it so far.

[davidyoung]

great breakdown. enjoy watching these types of side by side comparisons. keep em coming

[carlosanzola]

Thanks for this video! I've been waiting all winter for a pull start video with a tank top!

[darrylkaufman]

I just wanted to say thanks for your videos. I'm a shade tree mechanic (journeyman autobody mechanic) and have worked on my own stuff for years. By no means an automotive expert but am pretty good at the basics. I like the way you present your topics and they are very helpful. I think the best knowledge I have gained is on ethanol in fuel. I didn't realize how it could affect so many of my tools and toys. I've used stabilizer for years and have run everything dry before end of season. But I would still use the gas from last year the next season. Also if gas was at a good price over the winter season, I would stock up (with stabilizer added) for the next season. Not going to do that anymore. Will only purchase what I can use within the appropriate timeframe. Cheaper price gas can cost me more in repairs later.

Also kudos to you for being an example to woman everywhere. For years I have said the trades needed more women. I hope you can inspire more young women to get into any trade. Keep up the great work and videos.

[arthurdombroskie]

Great content! We need to see long term, multi-gallon and multi season oil use in order to determine effectiveness of the different oils. They will all perform satisfactorily during short duration usage.

[donniceblakely]

I like your honesty! In the old days our superwiz 66's and 55's witch was a all out commercial chainsaw at the time never gave any lubrication issues. And the instructions said to mix sae 30 weight motor oil with the gas to make your mix. It's all about emissions today and that's the reason we have to use this smokeless oil. I like this lady's out and out honesty.

[gregcautrell]

It would probably take some super scientific long-term testing to really tell the difference, if any. Most real-world users would probably be okay either way. I'd say air filter condition can have as much or more effect on cylinder scoring. Your mileage may vary.

[brebohol]

Mad Respect from Oshawa Canada. We just got all our snowplows & equipment put to bed for the summer.
Now because we put our grass equipment to bed the correct way, EVERY one of them started on the 1st pull.
Thanks for all the advice & direction you've given us all over the years. I'm just a back yard mechanic (mechanically inclined) & I keep equpiment running for 2 landscape companies. Thx to Chick, these guys think I'm a miracle worker!
😊

[murraydelawski]

I worked in the bush my whole life and owned every make of saws .I owned my own logging company for years .I started in the logging industry we I was 18 and bucked 100 cords of 8 foot of poplar wood a day for years, 2 guys behind a grapple 528 cat skidder. Now I am 57 and still cut fire wood every day. I have even used motor oil as mix oil at times but shaking the jug before you use it .I learned this from a guy that had an allergy from the 2 stroke smoke, so he had to use motor oil and he cut lots of wood and no problems.in the old days my dad would take the inside out of the muffler for more power and remove every brake it had .he worked in the logging industry for 65 years .

[KennyMitchell]

Hey im glad I found this video. I own a landscaping business and 1 season in a pinch used 2 cycle marine oil. Followed the 50:1 mix instructions and 4 seasons later still use it in all my echo trimmers and back packs with out any issue. The first season I used the marine 2 cycle I had sthil trimmers and packs and haven't yet moved to echo. Disclaimer the sthil equipment was already 7 seasons deep and on their way out. Me and my crews absolutely beat the shit outta the echos due to number of accounts we have but they seem to me to be more durable and the echos were brand new when I started using marine 2 cycle and all echo equipment run with out fail with obvious normal maintenance weekly. Marine is cheaper and has yet to be a bad decision using it all my 2 cycle equipment

[kriswittlieff]

Hey!, Your video's are totaly top notch! been watching you for a little while now and truly feel confident with all of your info. A very sincere thank

[motomikebuilder]

Great content. I've raced 2 strokes for years, 2 stroke street bikes in the 80's, jet skis also and have tried them all. I also use chainsaws etc for work. The VP 94 premix I like. I also use left over 110 race gas with MX oil. Oakland Rentals uses Amsoil on their tools and thinks it's the best. It seems to me that any high quality oil works fine just don't store Ethanol fuel in whatever you run.

[wallebo]

Thanks for all of your hard work that benefits us all. This video was very memorable indeed.

[joethanks]

I just recently found your channel
Watched the episode on the mantis tiller i was about to pitch mine it hadn't run in 10+ years
Thanks to you it runs like new
Thanks again
Love your channel

[aaronhooks]

I have been using Motomix from Stihl for about twenty years. The equipment runs cleaner and it doesn't gum up when sitting for an extended period. It also has a shelf-life of about five years.

[charlieoperator]

Bre, like your channel. I consider myself fairly knowledgeable about small engine and yet I still learn a lot from your videos. I rarely comment but feel the need to do so on this occasion. Some outboard oils are meant for pre-mix applications and other are meant for direct injection in 2 cycle engines and not premixed with gasoline. The direct injection type does not mix well with gasoline and if used in a premix application will destroy the engine. Probably something to look into for your self to better understand. Thanks for the good content.