Here's Why You Don't Mess With A Heater Core!!

Here's Why You Don't Mess With A Heater Core!!
Easy Heater Core Diagnose and Replace!!
How To Replace A Heater Core!!
1995 GMC Suburban Heater Core
GMT400 Heater Core

#heaterCore #coolantLeak #replaceHeaterCore

00:00 Intro
00:09 What Is A Heater Core
00:37 Close Look Under Dash
00:53 Why Replace Heater Core
01:18 Factory Heater Core Condition
01:57 Heater Hoses
02:17 Heater Core Removal
03:36 Surprise After Hoses Removed
04:12 New Heater Core
04:59 Install New Heater Core
06:08 Check For Leaks
06:39 Water Source
07:29 Conclusion

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***This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!***

FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.

[JohnDoe-lefy]

Wow.. the ease of removing the heater core alone makes this vehicle a keeper!

[agostinodibella]

Wow, that’s one of the easiest heater cores to replace! Some other cars would be a nightmare. When using the screw type clamps, I would have to retighten them from time to time.

[yodasbff]

That's the way all heater cores should be located, unfortunately most cars you have to tear the dash out to get to them.👍👍👍

[keithlutes]

4:47 "As they say, 'Out with the old - in with the new!'" Nice nod to Mr ChrisFix. I've wished for a long time that he'd get an OBS Chevy truck and show me how to fix mine. But that's why I watch your videos. Thank you Mr 1ROAD!

[craigyarmulasr]

Great job. Remember those stock hose clamps are made to expand with the heat and cool cycle. If you use them on plastic that heat's up the plastic can crack.

[hurlcat]

I share you enthusiasm to replace components before they fail! Also, thanks to your videos I decided to install the kill mat inside my 1999 sub. While I was doing this project it was raining outside so I closed all the doors and work inside the vehicle. After a while I notice that there was a drip entering inside the vehicle from the rain on the passenger side. I too am in the midsts of troubleshooting this, but was waiting for this vid to come out first. You should check the drain below the windshield and possibly put a sprinkler on your truck for a while to recreate the rain. This is my next step.

[alanbonaventurayonusg]

Excellent explanation of each detail, I really enjoyed the video. I'm the owner of a Silverado 98 and appreciate to get all possible information to do the job myself. Thanks a lot.

[brucecoleman]

Lucky you! The heater core that I replaced seemed like the engineers started with a heater core and built a car around it! For your leak, remove the wiper arms and cowl and check for leaves clogging the air intake and cowl drains. With the windows up and the doors closed, have the blower running on high. Take about a 3’ piece of fuel hose and put one end to your ear. With the other end, go around your windshield and air intakes and anywhere you suspect a leak. When you hear air escaping, you found the problem. The orangish tint could be from decomposing leaves.

[happycat]

Actually, if you double clamp the hose the coolant leak would likely be gone. Just take some sandpaper to the original heater core inlet and outlet heater core tubes and clean up the heater core tubes and reattach the heater core hoses.

The original heater core only has a single raised ridge for each inlet / outlet heater tube whereas the new heater core has two raised ridges to prevent coolant leakage (heater hose clamp goes between the two raised ridges). That's the main reason why I left the automotive repair industry, most mechanics are out to make the most profit they can in the least amount of time possible even if they have to lie to the customer.

Today most shops won't let a person leave unless they have at least a $2000.00 car repair bill.

[cosmiclawnmower]

You're lucky that your heater core is that easy to get to. Years back, I had to replace mine in my 1998 Chevy S10. The entire dashboard had to come out to access it and was about a 12 hour job from start to finish.

[Peter_Riis_DK]

Those ends of the heatercore are in extremely good shape considering they've sat there for twenty six years, I'd say.

[themilt]

Got a 95 K1500 pickup, and your videos have helped me out a ton. Thanks so much!

[mannyroias]

I would swap out that hose clamp for the OE clamp. The OE clamp will always maintaining that perfect pressure on the hose in heat/cold climate.

[middy]

Awesome filming and lighting. Very articulate speech and easy to follow.

[dougshrader]

I have seen new cores fail 3 months after install, there is never a guarantee a preemptive repair will prevent a breakdown.

[majorpygge-phartt]

Hi, from England, UK. You should try replacing the heater core on an old 1975 Rolls-Royce silver shadow one, that is an absolutely MAJOR job, definitely NOT for amateurs!

[scoutlocations]

If you are going to replace both the core and the hoses, it makes it easier to do if you put the new hoses onto the new core tubes before you send the core tubes through the firewall. Ditto on the removal. Leave the old hoses attached to the old core. Simply detach the old hoses at the radiator and pull the whole assembly out through the firewall.
Then all you have to do is feed the new assembly in through the firewall and connect the ends to the radiator.
This way you are doing less "in-place" wrench work.

[robbiemcgee]

On these trucks the air intake for the HVAC system is under the plastic shroud thing that fits around the base of the windshield wipers. I believe there are 2 screws for this plastic shroud that actually protrude through this intake. Mine was actually leaking around these screws, down into the HVAC Blower housing and dripping down into the cab. I recommend taking the shroud off and clean any sticks, leaves, or dirt. Then use some type of sealant to seal around this intake and the screws that go through it. You can easily check for a leak using a water hose.

[luisamoa]

You're lucky that Chevy has easy access for it. Much newer cars have it buried behind the dashboard.

[bentnickel]

Jimmy, you did a great job. If you take the time to cut that core in half, you'll see you didn't waste your time or money. That gold colored water was not your antifreeze, but rusted water leaking from your core. No one can prove that, but as a fourth grade elementary graduate, I'd bet my lunch money on it. :-)