Can we use single point anchors for climbing and mountaineering belays?

Well the answer is yes, but there's some stuff to think about... as always!

We do receive a small commission on anything purchased via those links.

[lmnts-climbing]

Nice one, another nice option is to pass a long bight around the anchor and tie a bowline in the 4 strands, once the ‘rabbit’ 😂 comes back down the hole this forms a master point loop. You end up with 2 isolated ropes around the anchor and a nice big knot that’s easy to untie after loading. Food for thought! Keep it coming!

[marcchrys]

Great video, as usual. Though your vids always make me feel guilty of extreme negligence - I've been climbing for 45 years and I have to confess many of my multi-pitch belays have been of the ONE bombproof sling or rope around a flake or chockstone variety :-( My way of thinking is 'if I'm worried about the main rope, heavy duty sling or HMS crab failing on a solid anchor'' I may as well solo ;-)

[あにまる-rc]

Thunder!!
I am Japanese. I am not good at English.
This video was helpful.Thank you very much.
Also, the dog is cute.

[marknugent]

AMAZING video put across so well thank you

[somanayr]

You mention if one cuts the other cuts — this feels like an argument against equalization in this specific case. An unequalized anchor would likely see the loaded strand sever, giving warning of the impending danger

[marcushill]

I love your videos and teaching style, thanks for your effort.

[mikecallaghan]

Great informative video. Look forward to rebook ing next year.... Hopefully😷😷😷😷🤔🤔🤔👍

[PhillSparks]

Interesting thoughts of doubling up the sling and adding a knot. Edelrid recently released a video reminding us that a knot in a sling may weaken it up to 60%. So we’re doubling the strength of the slings but weakening them again at the knot. So we’ve got the double strand redundancy at the cost of a possible slight strength loss. I might be tempted to use two 120’s instead of just the one 240 if I had them available.

[ehgeese]

So to shorten your end of the last rope anchor config, you could just tie off a bight (overhand or butterfly probably best as they are easy to adjust) of the length you want instead of doing the clove hitch, could save you that carabiner you use for the clove!

[climberly]

I love your videos and find them very informative and a pleasure to watch, even if you are british. But I don't hold that against you!

[ryanevius]

A short trip to the Dolomites will get you used to single-point glue-in anchors 😅

[WhatsleftofTom]

I’ve been looking for a video on how to use the rope to loop a boulder, thanks! What’s the procedure to incorporate a looped boulder (with the rope) into a multi point anchor or would that not make sense to do?

[doughobbs]

Great stuff Jez, brilliant advice as always.

I'm sure the "must have redundancy or you die as it told me so in a text book" brigade will be along soon! 😅

[jeremyballard]

Nice one Jez. Where do big, well placed hexes fit into this for you?

[imissclimbing]

Great vid, love tips that utilise the rope, its always there (or should be unless something gone very wrong!)!

What belay plate do you use for guide mode out of interest?

[freebobify]

Is there a safe method for setting up a top rope in this scenario with static rope on a single point? I've seen a few of videos but they all have more than one point

[englishinliverpoolandwirra]

"I go climbing to go climbing", love it! Is that the next t-shirt quote??

[theSquashSH]

Why don't climbers pad their ropes in a high-abrasion situations like slackliners do?