Scrub Plane Vs Fore Plane How to Use and Sharpen

What is the difference between a foreplane and a scrub plane, and How do you sharpen the cambered iron of a fore plane or a scrub plane.

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[kentgreenough]

If in doubt, do what I did. I found an old cheap plane in a second hand store for one dollar! Chambered the blade and wow! A scrub plane. Not pretty, but what would be considered a piece of junk now chews wood like a bezerk beaver. It has earned a place on my bench.

[elmikejd]

I’ve heard a few people say that you should stick with the coarsest tool as long as possible. This definitely makes your work faster and easier.

[jimbo]

I guess when I was younger I was using my number 4 as a scrub plane, getting older with a decent plane I took thinner shavings. Now I’m really old I use a planer thicknesser. But I still use rough sawn timber as it is cheaper. For fine work smoothing I go back to my expensive planes with decent quality irons well sharpened. That is what I should have done as a newbie except I had very little money. It’s all great fun and satisfying. These videos are preserving important skills that power tool woodworkers do need.

[brettjohnson]

In addition to removing large amounts of material, I've found that scrub planes are helpful for targeting knots which cause issues with a less cambered iron. I found trying to flatten a board with knots (especially pine) I would get little raised mounts around the knot because it would cause the plane to lift, also the knots dulled the blade very fast. Using a scrub plane to get the center of the knot lower than the surrounding area made things a lot easier

[Festus]

Great video. I made a scrub plane from a cheap Harbor Freight copy of the #4. That $15 thing is a monster when it comes to hogging off wood.

[ianpearse]

Rough and Ready, just like me! My favourite use for my old no 5. Plane to see! LOL.

[kennethspeed]

I bought a scrub plane fairly cheaply, and I use it occasionally to put an interesting "rough hewn" texture on a board. I generally use it with the grain and set the plane for a light cut.

[gandalf]

Traditionaly in Denmark, and I belive this is actualy a German tradition, we have 3 planes. Skrub høvl. It literaly means Scrub Plane, The next was the "Slet Høvl" Slet is delete or erase. It was used after the scrub to erase the marks left by the "Skrup Høvl". The final one is callet the "Puds Høvl" It's the finish plane. "Puds" can best be translated to polish, but the word is from before we had sand paper. The "Slet Høvl" is almost identical to the Puds Høvl. It's a bit longer about 3/4" and the moth is a bit wider.

[marcmcgettigan]

That’s a great video loads of info. Thank you

[stevem]

i recently got an old stanley scrub plane, lots of fun to use!

[skiphayes]

I generally get rough sawn wood and I agree those two planes work great!

[SandyMasquith]

Thanks for this explanation, James. Great information as always.

[jonesey]

Wow, you gave me a lot to think about. I’m not a young buck anymore and you’re approach to just buy the lumber more finished to begin with really is provoking a lot different thought process as to the tools I’ll need for this hobby. Thanks for your time and sharing your vast knowledge!

[trevdog]

I love all your shows and everything you do

[MCsCreations]

Really excellent tips, James! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[davidstewart]

The range between a #3 and #6 is so confusing, even the experts have different preferences. I was able to get a lot of them cheap, so I could choose whichever one works for me. Then like James, impressive tool wall! The scrub plane can easily be the cheapest: a wooden body, an off-brand, a parts plane with missing pieces. Or make one.

[lydiarol]

Thanks, I'll be waiting for the cambered iron video

[Heseblesens]

I guess I am the odd-ball out when it comes to scrub/fore plane use. I still use them about as much as I did be-fore 🤪.

I do not have a Stanley no 40 or a specific scrub plane from other manufacturers, but have made a few from damaged planes.
No 4’s and 5’s that at some point in their lives got a cracked mouth that previous owners soldered I have found to be good scrubs, along with no 78’s (damaged or not).

[dougdavidson]

Thanks James. So, my #5 'scrub' is really a fore plane and the other #5 is a bench plane I use as a finisher. Neither has an aggressive chamber, just feathered edges. Take care & stay safe.

[BakerVS]

I find that scrub and fore planes are worth using the wooden versions rather than metal versions. European scrub planes, for example, are cheap as chips used, and the light weight and low friction make them perfect for rough work. The only hassle is that it can be harder to remove the iron for sharpening.
I also have an old American fore plane (that I bought from England) that I also love using.
Recently I had to take about 1/2“ off a post for a cradle build, and it was a breeze with the old fore plane to take almost everything off, a No7 to get it pretty much perfect and a few quick passes with a No4 at the end. For me a perfect balance of the lightness of wooden planes for the hard work, and the precision and adjustability of metal planes for final surfacing.