Rolex vs. Omega

In this Split Seconds, Tim is discussing the biggest rivalry in the industry: Rolex vs. Omega.

In the full episode, Tim Mosso discusses Omega vs. Rolex strategy from the perspective of an Omega watch collector and enthusiast. If Omega were to challenge and overthrow Rolex market dominance, what would the tactics and products look like from a watch buyer’s or enthusiast’s perspective. In short, scarcity, a simplified Omega watch catalog, regional products for a global brand, strong two-way dealer relationships, human faces – including designers and watchmakers - behind the products, and leading design could give Omega the strength to rival Rolex once more.

Tonight’s episode reviews alternatives to the coveted FP Journe Chronometre Bleu. We consider competitors from Parmigiani Fleurier, A. Lange & Sohne, H. Moser & Cie, and NOMOS Glashutte.

When did the Patek Philippe Nautilus’ bracelet switch from screws to pins? What is the movie worst product placement by any luxury watch company? Answers will follow in tonight’s show! Tim names and shames several of the worst luxury watch sales listings on eBay and chrono24. Tim offers his view on luxury watch water resistance; how much water resistance is sufficient for swimming this summer?

New luxury watch debuts are recounted. The Oris Aquis Date dive watch has resurfaced with green and brown accents. Ulysse Nardin’s Executive Skeleton Tourbillon Hyperspace offers an eight-day power reserve with a flying tourbillon and a “hyperspace” hand-painted dial frame inspired by the upcoming film, “Solo, a Star Wars Story.” All of this content will be joined by our usual viewer wrist shots of personal watch collections.

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[howardle]

Omega should hire Tim and put him in charge of their marketing team!!!

[bragoajp]

This is actually THE best watch rant I've seen in recent years. The substance of most watch rants today is only the vloggers opinion to justify their previous opinion, or answering comments, and then selling the watch discussed on their personal online retail store.

This one is actually very informative and helpful. Tim is not only helping Omega, but also every other watch brand, for example; Patek, whose now recently admitted their lost of touch with younger generation and then starting to join Instagram with half-baked plans.

Salute.

[astifcaulkinyeras]

Omega's main problem is their ridiculous number of models and variations. It makes their product feel mass produced and cheap. Rolex's few models and incremental updates makes all their products feel classic and like a long lasting investment.

[shaider]

To summarize: Omega are more focused on innovations, while Rolex are more focused on marketing.

[DBravoer]

Rolex hasn't done anything truly horologically significant in a long time, unlike Omega. They create fictitious "problems" and then gild the lily to address these straw men.

Example: 904L is good steel, but it isn't inherently better than 316L. 904 cannot be heat treated OR hardened. It gets dangerously brittle below 0 degrees F. It also work hardens during machining, like titanium, which is why Rolex reportedly stamps all their cases now; because machine time is absurdly long. 316L can be heat treated (even differentially) and does not get brittle even down to cryogenic temperatures (-320F). After std heat-treatment, they're approximate equals. Further, Omega can additionally cryogenically treat their 316L to have it be both significantly cheaper than 904L AND harder AND equally corrosion resistant.

Example 2: The triple lock crown. My 20+ year old Seiko SHC 200m diver has never leaked. Ever. Nor has any other quality Maker's crown seals failed when they weren't supposed to. It's akin to advertising anti lock brakes in 2019; they're mandatory. Making a big deal out of the tripll locked crown is an insult to anyone who understands ISO diver standards. It's a faux "advantage".

Next: nearly ALL of Omega's non-chronograph watches have 15 times as much EMI resistance as Rolex's MOST resistant watch, the milgauss. In fact, the 15, 000 Gauss rating of current Master Chronometer movements is likely conservative as they currently lack the ability to precisely control fields any stronger than that. A std movement was tested to 60, 000 Gauss (6 Tesla) without issue and with the same performance as 1.5T. with the proliferation of inductive phone chargers and neodymium magnets in purses, suitcases, backpacks, car gloveboxes, and even Kindle/iPad cases, magnetic resistance is a KEY component of maintaining precision over time. The current Rolex line may be built and regulated to +2/-2, but we'll see how long that lasts in this EMI dense world we live; we already know that Omegas will shrug that off without issue.

Lastly, Chronometeric precision in the real world has been at least equal for the 8800/8900 Master Coaxial as compared to Rolex.

Mechanical watches are already an en Vogue type of anachronism. They are a novelty we love. But nobody loves a watch that can't keep time. In ten years, when EVs are inductively charging in garages all over the country, along with phones, earbuds, BT devices, smart watches (for athletic activities), on counters and nightstands and coffee tables.... how well will Rolex's keep time THEN? It's not a fully answerable question, but the notion doesn't bode well for value retention.

[leestrada]

Omega has much more history than Rolex. Omega has made in-house movements for 152 years, while Rolex has always until recently bought movements to another company, that now owns. Lemania calibers are in-house for Omega, Rolex has used others calibers for chronographs, Valjoux, Zenith... Omega has many more innovations and fitted into all the line. Omega has Tourbillons since the 40's. Again, Omega has a lot more history.

[hishamhabib]

Hey Tim! Omega should hire you as the head of their Marketing team! Bravo! Excellent rant and points!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[jboomhauer]

Omega need to pay you for this advice. Great advice.

[ianwoollard]

I agree that there’s too much variety at Omega. I hope there’s never the kind of manufactured scarcity that there is at Rolex that over inflates the price of new and used products and frustrates the consumer. The waiting lists at Rolex are ridiculous and considering that Rolex is a mass produced brand quite annoying. I like both brands but Omega is my first choice and I’ve decided to buy a Planet Ocean over a Submariner.

[bentremy]

OMG!!! Somebody please send this to Jeán Claude Biver. He needed to hear this yesterday. Tim needs to be a CEO! Simply brilliant.

[BastienKoert]

That is some really interesting insight, Tim. Well done!

[danny.norato]

Here is my copyrighted quote:
"Rolex created and driven by business,
Omega created and driven by horologists"
That's the difference.

[TimeIsMoney]

This is a great video Tim !!
I truly admire your passion for horology and the knowledge and insight you share is impeccable. Keep up your amazing and much appreciated effort. Cheers

[borinken_foliage]

I really hope someone at Omega is watched this.

[FLXLife]

In the tiny niche of horology fans, Tim is our rockstar anchor man.

[richardman]

Our hobby is all about opinions, which makes this hobby so interesting. Regardless of history or marketing, both these watches are icons in their own right. As a long time watch collector, buy what you like and what you would wear. Personally, I have both and love wearing them.

[simonw]

He is absolutely right on every point.

[GuideauxPelagos]

What is it that makes the Rolex fanboys always go beserk when someone states the obvious that Omega is just much more horology and history than Rolex will ever be. Objectively this is true... no spinning that.

[jcktimeless]

I went Omega and In awestruck every time I wear it. I like a few Rolex watches and Ive worn one but they were meh at best, underwhelming to me (except for the sub, damn solid watch).

[andrewbrown]

Can’t believe I haven’t seen this vid before.. that was epic!!