Bush Honeysuckle Control Demonstration

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UA System Division of Agriculture Crop, Soil, and Environmental Science Research Scientist Dr. Matthew Bertucci and Washington County Extension Agent for Horticulture Colin Massey discuss initial results of bush honeysuckle (Lonicera Maackii) control techniques and Integrated Pest Management for this invasive shrub
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Kansas City Parks needs to start this in Swope Park.

mikeburke
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Thank you! I'm glad to know hack and squirt works well. That'll be much more convenient for me!

GrahamSEdwards
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Good stuff. I live in deep Southern Illinois and this invasive plant is a problem here in Carbondale. I am making some small scale progress with the methods you describe. Thank you.

dwdavis
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Why can't you spell and list the amounts of the treatments?

alan
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Is there a publication with more information on the experiments with hack n squirt treatment? That approach could save a load of time when treating large bush honeysuckle patches.

benalbrecht
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Can I remove most of the stems/branches and then leave one single 3 ft stump then do the slash and herb treatment?

tuanas
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Thank you for a great little video. Especially interesting was the report on your results, though I wonder how many plants were involved in the study. Wow, 100% efficacy. I'm going to that method of the slanted cut. I do wish you had mentioned what that applicator is and if it is commercially available or personally rigged from some other vessel. Here are some other items I have learned elsewhere. First, the reason to remove invasives in favor of natives is because 90% of leaf-eating insects can only eat native plants: no bugs, no baby birds and bugs feed a multitude of other wildlife also. Second, I have heard that the reason to remove honeysuckle after you have cut it is that the branches emit a chemical that suppresses other growth in the soil. Third, I am reading in the newer literature that disturbing the soil not only allows light and air to seeds to sprout new undesirable species, but also interferes with the still not entirely understood relationship between mycorrhiza fungi in the soil and native plants.

salviabuckwheats
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I've removed thousands of these all over Washington County including several hundred around the Wedington WMA over the Xmas break. They're usually shallow rooted so I've been able to muscle them out (no herbicides). If muscle alone doesn't work (which it does if you use a central stem for leverage), a small pick axe can be used to break the main roots.
Unfortunately, I don't believe this is a genie we'll ever put back in the bottle, but small battles can be won here and there.

TheMBBenton
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Cut, drill stump, fill hole with roundup.

mickeywelch
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A cordless reciprocating saw makes short work of those big ones

markcouch
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Can the hack ‘n squirt method be done anytime of the year with the same efficacy or just fall?

brendanfreitag
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What about foliar spraying in the spring? Never mentioned.

jeffreylc
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This video would have been much more helpful if instead of referring to "an herbicide" you had specified which herbicide and at what concentration.

sarco
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Once you pull out the bush as in your first example, can you leave the bush at the site? And can pulling the bush be done is spring, summer, and fall?

silverback
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I do not take anyone seriously when they talk about pulling any woody invasive given the magnitude of problem. You start yanking with volunteers they never come back, too much work. You chop drop treat stump you can develop a volunteer group and get a lot down. That wrench is a stupid tool and weighs a ton, Have someone haul that around if you hate them, You'll never see them again and if they see you in future they will avoid you

midwestplantgeeks
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What were you using to apply the herbicide to the cut stumps?

lucilechurch
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