Subaru EJ25 - Basic Ignition Tune-Up / Plugs and Wires

In this video we do a basic ignition tune up on a Subaru 2.5 EJ engine. It consists of just replacing the plugs and plug wire. It is a really simple task and can be done easy at home with the correct tools. -Enjoy!

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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained

[banzay]

Not sure why I'm here, I don't even own a subaru (and probably I never will), but I like how this guy works. I've watched some of his older vids and I like his 'modus operandi'.

[MrSubaru]

Correct, NEVER use anti-seize on Subaru/NGK spark plugs.

[chrisfreemesser]

First off, it's good to see a Subaru in the official SMA SubaruBay (tm).
Second, what's up with Hannah Eric? She used to be shy and you never saw or heard a peep out of her, then she went off to college for a year. Now she's chatty, competing with you for camera time, and giving you all sorts of backtalk. You better hope she doesn't come back next summer...she'll be running the place by then if she does! :D

[GlycerinZ]

On my 01 Legacy, I replaced the timing belt/water pump/pulleys, as well as serpentine belts, spark plugs & wires, and valve cover gaskets at 106K miles. Only have used synthetic oil in her since I started driving her at 24K miles. She runs like a champ and has never let me down.

[joecoleman]

Hanna it's been great having you back this summer. Your presence adds a lot to Eric's videos and you will be missed. I hope you enjoy your second year of college but work hard at it. As I told my daughters, the secret to college is to always go to class and never get behind. Please come back and help Eric when you are on break sometime. Best of luck to you!

[ShanesGettingHandy]

I love that in this video Eric suggests Marie as Hannah's replacement, which we all know by now actually happens!

[therealchayd]

Wobble bar extensions have to be one of the best inventions, saves many skinned knuckles and much cursing!
Mystery aircraft is a weight-shift type ultralight.

[PaulR]

Eric,
Another fantastic video. Hearing Hannah say 'click' as she tightens the air box clamp with a nut driver: priceless. You guys are the best! BTW that spark plug 'gap' was huge!
SMA#1
God bless
Paul

[Rsenior]

One other interesting thing is the difference in wear on the plugs. This looks like a "waste spark" system where one coil fires two plugs. This leads to one plug having positive polarity and the wear occurs on the ground electrode, while the other plug in the circuit is negative polarity and wear occurs on the center electrode. This is why on each bank, one plug had the platinum chip remaining while the other did not.

[todayintheshopbanksy]

'I love napa wires', 2 seconds later, 'Freaking napa' lol

[routeoneauto]

Man I'm Amazed, I've been using a piece of hose for over 50 years to install Spark Plugs. All this time I coulda been using a neat "Special" Tool. Gonna Get Me one.

[brianhind]

Mr. "O" you are correct in that the ribs on the insulator on the plugs is to increase the voltage potential required to discharge to ground.

[Rsenior]

The ribs are indeed to increase isolation resistance to ground. The non-ribbed plugs actually have better isolation resistance so long as you have a good boot seal.

The problem with anti-seize is that it messes with the torque specs. If you have anti-seize lubricant, the clamp load of the plug is higher for a given torque. If you use anti-seize use the angular torque method instead of a torque wrench. However, the torque of a plug is key. Engine damage can occur if the plug is not tight enough since it affects the heat transfer.

ALWAYS replace the boots if you have tracking. If you get that it's most likely due to poor sealing between the boot and the plug. It's always a good idea to replace the boots when you replace the plugs.

I used to release motor craft boxes when I worked at NGK; the aviation thing is legal related. NGK doesn't want to have any legal implications associated with aviation.

[MrPortdover]

Hello from Port Dover, Ontario, Canada. Electrician by trade here in Ontario Canada at Stelco steel for almost 39 years. Your instructional auto videos are very well done. Thanks for your youtube videos.

[sirchomps]

Hello Mr O ! Please don't let Hannah quit! Hannah! You can't go! You know you would miss SMA, Mr. O and family and all your YT fans!! You were just beginning to become interactive on the videos!
Thanks for the video! Keep them coming!

[d]

I did not know that trick of installing spark plugs back in I always use a socket you learn something new every day thanks

[milkman]

Those girls were having way to much fun!! Great video but they stole the show!!!

[alanrobison]

I always used a piece of rubber tubing about 6 inches long to get my spark plugs started back in the day.

[josepherhardt]

Ages ago, I did a mini tune up on my (then) gf's 1971 LTD--basically replacing plugs and wires and distributor cap to get it to run decently enough to get it to a garage for other work and save a tow. I knew enough to exactly replace the wires one by one and plug them into the new cap in exactly the same spot as the old cap (my mechanical abilities were limited). However, when I finally went to mount the distributor cap, I found that Ford had polarity-notched the cap in such a way to make it go in only one way--despite the fact that it was 180-degree symmetric (in other words, the plug impulses came straight through the cap without any logic or re-routing). I can see notching the cap so that it could only go in one of two (or even 4) ways, but this was overdesign. So I carefully removed the plugs from the new cap and reconnected them to the old cap, then rotated the new cap, and then moved the wires from the old cap to the new one. Totally nuts. Also, on this car, the windshield wiper squirt nozzles came in "left" and "right." Why? No reason to not to have just one nozzle type. Doofus. There were other things about that car that were similarly dubious. And, of course, it had the infamous Ford steering gear box wander. I drove a 1961 Fairlane with about 6 inches of play in the wheel. The 71 LTD had about the same. My (by then) wife got a 76 LTD later with the same problem, and we briefly had an 84 Ford with the same issue. At a time when just about every other car manufacturer built cars that went where you pointed them, Ford STILL hadn't gotten the message. What rot.
Q: Does anyone know what year Ford FINALLY had steering that properly pointed the car? I'm curious.

[richardcranium]

you are correct in the ribs on the spark plug same as high tension insulator standoffs used by the utilities. it effectively increases the length a voltage leak would have to travel by going down the valleys and back out. there in lies the problem- the boot goes past this effectively eliminating it existance as an isulative property. added to that the rubber used is naturally white. in order to color it a product called carbon black is added which of course has carbon in it. although its amount is small once a wire arcs over as you stated it will continue to.