LMC Truck: Heavy-Duty Power Window Harness Installation with Kevin Tetz

Kevin Tetz leads you through the step-by-step installation of LMC Truck’s exclusive Heavy-Duty Power Window Harness. This DIY wiring project for 1977-1991 Chevy/GMC trucks and SUVs is a great upgrade that takes just a couple hours of time with basic tools and some typical electrical supplies.

The heavy-duty wiring harness is the ideal solution for the slow window motor in your Chevy, GMC Truck or SUV. Even with all other parts being new, the factory window motor can be slow because of the path the current needs to take. The Heavy-Duty Power Window Harness from LMC Truck draws power directly from your battery to the power window motor through an inline fuse, so this easy solution makes a significant difference in window speed.

The detailed instructions that come with the harness guide you through the full installation, but Kevin shows you some great common-sense wiring tips in this video, as well as the best way to get the wiring done for a clean installation, including a great coat hanger trick for pulling wires through tricky areas.

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[trirycheman]

Take a tip from a person who does wiring for a living....do NOT solder wires like that! Slide the heat shrink over one wire and twist the wires together end to end, not side by side. Then solder, then slide the heat shrink up over the connection. It will last forever.

[Hawk-qnzk]

I bought this kit, and a new double switch as a complete replacement for original wiring harness. I bundled the relays and used only one wire to the positive side of the battery. Then mounted the switch in the center of the dash and ran only two wires into the door. Works great, and I will cover the extra holes in the door panels when I get them redone.

[chrisj]

Actually enjoyed the video for what it was. But I really think you should have taken a bit more "Pride" in your work. Soldering was interesting, The lack of a grommet was just bad, and Whats up with all the wires on the battery posts? I would have added an alternate fuse block to tie all of those into the electrical system . Rant over Sorry if it offends anyone.

[bradstanley]

I installed an auxiliary fuse block directly above and to the right of the blower motor and wired directly to it and I installed off road lights on the front bumper and everything worked out awesome!!
Thanks LMC for an amazing video 👍🏻

[jonathanhudson]

When I can have a pretty straight shot of pulling wire through a fire wall's thick rubber bung or pushing a wire through it. I thread the wire through the loop on the end of an AK47/74 cleaning rod. I'm a gunsmith and dealer and when most people switch from the factory style wood furniture on an AK47 or AK74 the new polymer furniture usually doesn't have a provision for a cleaning rod, or the cleaning kit that fits in the buttstock. So most people just leave those parts with me. Alot even leave the wooden furniture with me. It a strong rod with a threaded end that also as a decent sized hole/slot cut in them for patches. They work better in most situations than a metal coat hanger which are actually kind of hard to find at stores now. I've used it to pull wire for relays to my nitrous solenoidd, WOT micro switch and a few other things I've put on switches. I did this all pushing the braided steel nitrous line which I fought to get in first then ran wires and pulled wires through that same rubber firewall bug. This was all done in a 2002 WS6 Trans Am with 33, 000 miles on it. Anyone familiar with these cars know that bung is on the passenger side and runs right up against the bottom of the ECM. A coat hanger wouldn't be strong enough to push through it and the loop on the end would have just grabbed other wires and could have easily stripped a section of insulation off of a wire that is touching a braided steel line. I know this is long but I wanted to explain why I use the ak47 or ak74 cleaning rod. I wouldn't try it with the plastic patch holders and thread together cleaning rods from a kit because they are rather weak and the plastic patch holders is larger than the smaller than .30" rod with a slit cut into it. Just a hot rod trick I figured out. I hope it helps someone out there. Drive safe, shoot safe, and stay safe, and enjoy.

[HvyMetalEver]

My soul died a little with that soldering "job"
Ouch

[SPLATT]

Wouldn't it be easier to route the power lead to the power distribution block on the firewall?

[horaciosanchez]

I would NEVER let this guy work on my truck !

[A_Litre_of_Farva]

Holding wire to solder with crimping pliers is a slick idea! Love the Bob Ross vibes :)

[waltercooling]

Good to see you on a show again, Kevin

[superspedboy]

agreed with most of you, however I didn't see a comment about grounding the wire at the door or even under the dash, you where right but atleast I know whats going on with my truck then.... il do my own kit then.

[waggitnshaggit]

Thanks great job makes it so much easier than reading into print directions

[strakaestrada]

I just installed my window harness, Thanks for the get video on installing them. They work great now.

[AaronsAutomotive]

that solderinng is so sad. i actually felt bad for that poor SquareBody
:( saw one episode of this guys truck where he solders an LED strip light wires on the back of the truck. the way he twists and does it does not seal the water out of it at all. everytime i solder i put the shrink tube ontonthe wire, than do whats called a linesman splice. Even as is it is a solid connection and as the wires try to pull apart they get tighter, than if i have it ill put a little flux onto the copper ends, solder it up, once the wire cools down ill put a little dielectric grease onto the soldered joint, than slip the shrink tube over the joint and shrink it. sometimes a little tape over the heat shrink. than wire loom at all possible times, and than zip tie the loom up and out of the way along the frame and such.

[larryitsme]

I just added this kit to my K5 Blazer and the windows are much faster now. I am going to build another setup like it for the tail gate window.

[omarchavez]

he hdad the dash off he should've did this harness upgrade with the dash off and ran the wires whith the factory harness would've been ALOT cleaner and ALWAYS use a grommet when going through metal. he couldve done a cleaner job with the wire connections. Put the heatshrink on first then make you connection then soldier then heatshrink looks way better and more professional

[A_Litre_of_Farva]

Hot tip: warm up the yellow plastic insulation on those terminals with a heat gun and they'll become soft and pull off easy. Great video but yeah, that's not the way to solder connections. And use a heat gun on shrink wrap, it works way better than flame.

[jesusochoa]

Do you have anything to provide extra power to the wipers?

[bradleyhannah]

yesterday when i called them I was told no longer available, well I found it burried in the Chevey catalog this will work in any vehicle not just chevies. Got it straightened out and ordered for my Ramcharger. I can make it work. I was gonna build my own I have the schematic.

[timparris]

While this covers the front windows, anything to upgrade the tailgate electric window? Mine opens but you have to be patient.