Mulch – which one and when to use it | DIY Garden Projects | Gardening Australia

Mulch is essential for gardens in a drying climate as it keeps precious water in the soil. Nearly everything in your garden will benefit from regular applications of mulch, which acts as a blanket for your soil, keeping it cool and moist.

Mulch benefits:
• It can reduce your need to water by 70%
• It reduces weeds that can compete for water, light and space
• It reduces weed-seed germination and makes it easier to pull out weeds
• Slows down rain run-off
• Insulates your soil and adds nutrients

1:28 Three main types of mulch

Inorganic – includes things like gravel or crushed brick and it’s great for paths or if you’re in a fire-prone area. However it obviously won’t add any organic matter to your soil.
Living – groundcovers that are shading the soil and reducing evaporation. Won’t break down to add organic matter to soil and some plants will compete for nutrients.
Organic – Includes woody or bark-based mulches, or straw-based mulches.

In Sophie’s orchard she likes to use a heavy wood-based mulch that is heavy enough for the chicken to scratch off and it will last for several years.

Elsewhere she uses a finer woody mulch that looks neater, however it will need to be replaced every few years as it breaks down more quickly.

3:18 In the vegie garden Sophie prefers a straw-based mulch, which includes:
• Pea straw
• Lucerne
• Lupin
• Sugar cane
These break down and add organic matter to your soil. Sophie buys what is available locally – usually pea straw mulch – rather than sugar cane mulch that is transported from further north.

Always water well before applying mulch so there is adequate moisture in the soil. Fluff up the straw and apply it around your plants. For baby plants, use chopped-up straw because the regular pieces are too large and will smother the seedings.

Chopped up straw mulch can be applied quite thickly because it is light and fluffy and the water will still reach the plants.

However, if you’re using a heavy wood mulch or gravel, it’s best to only apply a 2-3cm layer so rain can still penetrate, and always keep heavy mulches away from the bark of trees or other plants, to avoid problems such as collar rot.

4:52 Another option with straw mulch is to break off chunks or ‘biscuits’ – each about 5-7cm thick, which will still allow moisture through but will take longer to break down, offering protection for longer. This is a good idea for perennial plants.



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[chrism]

You've done a fantastic job with your place ! Love the aerial shots

[rustic]

I mostly use sugar cane mulch because, all the bails like pea straw, lucern etc all sprout seedlings not long after spreading. I use some pea straw this spring to layer with compost to build up some beds and now they're full of pea plants.

[rkdavid]

Great to see your garden.I am doing farming organically and I find much interest in learning much on it

[TheOracle]

I like to run my straw over with a lawn mower first. It chops it into smaller pieces. Making it easier to work with as well as giving better cover to the soil.

[akhtarali]

I have seen your video of mulching benefits, it is very informative and interesting video thank you

[johnmonck]

my produce store carries straw ... suger cane or lucerne... nothing in straw.. I would prefer the lucerne for my roses but I dont take it .... as the poor people with stock need it more ...suger cane is a fantastic mulch, that combined with cow poo and organic fertiliser pellets... thank you very much for uploading for us

[Nastyjoie]

Good explanation ☝💤 thankyou ...atsuuup 👍

[neverlostforwords]

I know this isn't recommended, but I have used bush mulch (around three inches in depth) successfully on our ornamental garden beds for the past three years. Each year it breaks down after twelve months and I then spread a fresh layer (usually in mid to late spring). I realise that the mulch draws valuable nitrogen from the soil as it breaks down, however I am often adding home made compost and store bought compost, plus organic fertilisers, as needed, when planting, or to maintain and care for plants, so the nitrogen is replaced. When planting a new plant, I move aside the mulch temporarily and add the feeding materials to the soil, plant the new plant, water in, then cover the soil over again with the bush mulch that was pushed aside. If I am simply maintaining/feeding existing plants, I move mulch aside, side/top dress the soil around the plant, water in, then move the mulch back around the plant. I have clay loam soil naturally in the garden and the bush mulch has really helped to condition the clay loam.

[theytwatcher]

Thoughts on using newspaper/shredded paper mulch. Find them easiest to source

[MrsBadger]

Thank you Sophie. Great mulch video. Just wondering if the 5cm mulch could be layered? For example, faster composting lucerne for 2-3 cm followed by slower composting wood chips on top for 2-3 cms … like a mulch lasagne. Only wondering because I have both on hand at the moment and figure the lucerne will be faster to add to the soil, while wood chips will provide a more robust barrier for moisture retention during summer (I live in the Queensland Subtropics). I’d very much welcome any advice/thoughts/guidance/tips you may be able to share on this topic.

[E.R.Hewitt]

I just love how she says mulsh ... I'm saying that way from now on

[wildchook]

Great video, Sophie. Go South Aussie :)

[KP]

Hi, I have been using tree lopping mulch for a number of years now on my Perth sand. However once it starts to break down the soil becomes hydrophobic and I have a constant battle to get the water to penetrate rather than just sit on top and run off or evaporate. I have recently started using straw and am hoping that I don't have to constantly battle the waterproof soil with various agents.

[GardeningCare]

Beautiful video uploaded thank you👍🤗🌷🌷

[gillessellier]

what about pesticides used by the farmers selling the mulch, it will go into your garden soil and plants

[daniellegodfrey]

Hello! Beautiful garden you have! For the first time, I added oat straw from a local gardener this past fall and oh my goodness....three weeks later I add a field of oats growing....it was full of seeds....I didn't take a chance, I pulled it all off and it was hard because it was really well established already. I just didn't want to deal with that in the spring. I live in Canada. Next spring I was thinking of adding chips of hardwood from a local artisan that makes furniture, do you think that would be allright? If so, how thick should I put it? And also, some oat seeds remained, how would you go about eliminating those for good? Thank you in advance, much appreciated!

[wasabiy]

while waiting for my ground cover to grow, should I mulch my soil? would that be bad for ground cover to grow?

[pradhumansharma]

Im exited to renovate my veggie wannabe patch soil which is quite of non living and dirt

[Tbrius]

help put straw down last fall but now (spring) I have a lot of green shoots to deal with thinking a wheat seed germinating what would you recommend?

[someoneinnz]

All the pea straw in our area is sprayed with roundup and fungicide 2 weeks before harvesting. I suspect this is no good for the garden?