Pertronix Ignition 'Problems & Failures' (It's Actually YOU)

If you don't make either of these critical errors, you will never have an issue.
Spring for the ignitor 3 units only (built in miltispark, rev limiter, and wont burn up if key is left on).

[ThunderHead]

Late night upload here lol. . . but seriously now, Pertronix didn't earn the bad name that media has seemed to of given them lately. I never like seeing good companies be beat up undeservingly.
I linked some of their products I currently have on my own cars above - Everything I have ever had from them has treated me very well.

Edit: if you are hell bent on using ignitor 1 or 2: be sure to supply the module with 12v but you may need to maintain the original ballast to the coil (both again need to be on a keyed source).
If In doubt, simply call pertronix - great group of folks to work with.

[johnherdener]

People just refuse to read instructions. I have been wrenching on cars for53 years now, as an ASE master Tech and a High School Auto Shop teacher ( I am now retired from both ). Getting my students to read instructions was an on going battle. Take a small block Chevy water pump for example. Go to the parts store get a replacement pump for your model and year and slap that sucker on, nothing could be simpler right. Wrong answer. The small block Chevy has at least 10 different variations at my last count ( there may be more ). A lot of pumps are designed to fit multiple applications so they don't have to stock so many part numbers. So you need to read the instruction sheet that tells you which, if any, of the small parts in that bag that came with the pump to use. I worked at O'Reilly Auto Parts for a few years after retiring from teaching. People would come in a lot saying we sold them the wrong part. I would look it up to make sure and when it was the right part ( most of the time ) I would ask if they read the instruction sheet in the box. I would get blank stair and a why would I need to do that. I would pull out the sheet and show them the instructions for their application and what they did wrong. Usually I would get something along the line of "well that's stupid". PEOPLE, READ THE DARN INSTRUCTIONS!!! OK, my soap box tirade is over. Luke you do good videos, keep it up.

[hotrod]

Watching this at 11PM right before bed...now I am in the garage checking voltage on my pertronix coil on my 65 Mustang with a 289. 7.3 volts. Guess i need to do a rewire. Thanks for learning me uncle luke!

[garycook]

Luke, a great primer on the petronics. I have used them for over 30 yrs and have never had one fail.I read the manual before I ever did the first install. I have had a unit on over 12 vehicles and never a failure. I see that you use my favorite brand of multimeter, fluke, they are relatively expensive but worth every penny.

[stephensaasen]

I'm totally with you on making the right positive lead connection. I've had a Pertronix ignition with original coil on a 1970 Chevy for years with no issues. However, I would like to note that a ballast resistor wire for a coil may not always read less than 12 volts. I fought a 1972 Ford F250 for a whole day wondering why the famous pink ballast resistor wire kept reading 12 volts. Ohm reading was the correct 1.5 ohms but voltage always 12. Finally asked a friend that cut his mechanic teeth back in the day on these things and he explained the ballast resistor wire as something that slows current not reducing voltage. He told me if you turn on power and try to get a straight voltage reading you will always get 12 volts. The way the resistor works is as the contact points open and close very rapidly while engine runs, the battery current passing thru the resistor wire gets slowed such that only 6 to 8 volts reaches the coil ultimately. He told me the only way to test a ballast resistor wire is ohm test. I know this doesn't apply to the video but thought I'd throw that out there in case someone tries to voltage test their ballast resistor wire and why they might get a 12 volt reading and pull their hair out like I did. Thanks for the tips.

[alhellebuyck]

I had igniter 1 for the last 19 years wired wrong off the coil. It worked fine. I bought the billet igniter 3 and wired it the same way. Car ran like shit at idle. I remember seeing this video before i bought the 3.I changed the wires as you showed and the idle smoothed right out.
1965 Mercury 390 4v.
Another great video Thanks.

[jonunya]

the screwdriver hanging from the dash, the beverage holder, the burrito and that engine running pretty, .. working class hero stuff Uncle Luke, go get em!

[JMassengill]

Your “test light” is a press to test light from military equipment. A handy thing to have. Great video.

[jim-cuyp]

In some cases you have to tie into the the fuse that only turns on when you are in ignition mode on the switch, if it;s on the acc side of the switch it will go open circuit when the ignition switch is in the start mode this makes sure that all the power goes into starting the engine .Also when wired this way you can have ignition switch in the acc mode without powering up the coil and in some cases the heater for the choke Very good video Luke.

[v.e.]

My father was notorious for not reading instructions . . . until it was too late or he had spent a fair amount of time cursing. I always read the instructions first, then go about the operation w/ a firm picture in my head as to what I need to accomplish. Pertronix units are great pieces, when properly installed. I have one on my Corvair and love not worrying about points gaps.

[vhfgamer]

When I bought my current early 70s daily driver, it came with a pertronix 1. It ran just fine through two years of college, even with the factory ballast still connected and dropping the voltage. After college, I decided to properly upgrade it with the flamethrower coil and ballast bypass.

I prefer the original pertronix, due to EMP concerns. All it has inside it is a hall effect sensor, and I'm convinced it will survive a solar flare. If it doesn't I have a complete points setup in a baggy in my glove box.

[motorsportmach]

You might want to mention when looking for the 12v key on source that you make sure you pick one that also has 12 volts while cranking. Most cars kill the power to things like a radio while cranking.. good tutorial Luke!👍

[TheAmazingAnonymator]

The 12 volt "run" wire is also typically connected to the starter relay, as there is usually a passthrough to give you 12 volts at the coil for starting. That's probably the easiest place to tap off imo, at least in a Ford

[nathanrice]

Your ignition system should always be the absolutely best that it can possibly be. This improves torque, horsepower, gas mileage, and results in cleaner exhaust emissions.

[DonnyT]

I don't "want" you to brake any of your vehicles but I do love it when you stomp the accelerator like it's on fire.

[michfish]

I like the Pertronix 2. I have the 2 and 3 and the 3 is very sensitive to junk on the distributor cam lobes. My timing was jumping all over the place until I pulled out the distributor cam and cleaned it. The 2 seems more stable since it’s sensing off the ring and not straight off the lobes.

[nickcormier]

I didn't know there was a resistive lead built in!! I've only run mine for a couple minutes total which is lucky. You saved me from a world of hurt. Thanks for not giving up on YT Luke! Godspeed

[WaybackTECH]

When I see this car in a video, I am always stunned at just how nice it is. That was a real nice score.

[shawnmay]

Always good content, I usually learn something. Have a good week Luke.

[ShadeTreeKennyT]

Good to know these are reliable units. I've heard complaints of these failing, now I know why. Thanks for showing the proper setup for these.