Saab 9-3 Front Wishbone Replacement | Front End Clunking Noise When Going over bumps

When you have a clunking noise when driving over bumps it could be time for your Saab 9-3 control arm replacement aka front lower control arm replacement.

💡 Don't forget to subscribe and hit that bell 🔔 to learn more about looking after your car:

🎥 How to remove the rear lights and bulbs on your Saab 9-3:
🎥 How to reset your Saab’s “time for service” message yourself:
🎥 Why not explore my entire Saab 9-3 playlist:
🎥 Crank sensor failure is such a common issue. Learn to recognise the symptoms:

Learn more about looking after your car:
🎥 Battery & alternator care in this playlist:
🎥 How to replace a CV [constant velocity] joint boot with a split kit:
🎥 Don’t let your fuel filter end up like this:

Are you trying to grow a YouTube channel? Give Tubebuddy a try for free:

Everyone should have a tyre pressure gauge in their glovebox:
I personally prefer a stirrup pump to a foot pump (I use the same one for my bikes and cars)
If you’d like to learn about the science and engineering of cars:

Thank you

[martcon]

Nice quick simple and clear tutorial, I just came here to make sure I was approaching the job correctly and wasnt missing anything. Thanks for the help as ever.

[chrislomas]

Good video there Cyd, it’s like having a mate helping you that knows his stuff, cheers 👍🏻

[TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Superb video mate, most technicians will never tighten these bushes with the suspension sitting at ride height, which leads to premature failure of the bushings and annoying noises ( a way to keep the customers coming 😂😂) cheers

[howdoweknow]

Funny you uploaded this as i have just started having this issue with mines, being my first car i pulled over thinking i had a flat or something due to the knocking... Thanks for another helpful video!

[goyschak]

I'm delighted by he accuracy you can record the noises that tell of a starting failure.
Kepp up the very good work, please!

[elbmensch]

Thank you for this video. You helped me a lot before with your video of the ABS-box failure with no crank situation, which made me nearly go crazy. 🙌

[nathanbolotta]

This is a fantastic video. (No this isn't a paid comment) A little effort to explain the little tips go a long way. I will be doing both of mine in the morning! 05 9-3 Aero

[rhynecars]

Thank you for posting Cyd, my 2004 9-3 has about 130, 000 miles and has started knocking over bumps, especially on cold mornings. I bought 2 new suspension arms and doing them today!

[reinislacis]

Changed my wishbone today. Thanks for tutorial! Fingers cross for MOT tomorrow!

[naiche.]

Hi Cyd, do you have to replace the hardware when doing this job, or did you find the bolts were in fine condition?

[davejohnston]

Thanks for this guidance unfortunately there are a few different knock producers on the front end of a saab for me drop links have been a common problem. Current one for me is a firm clunk which comes on brakes biting at low speed. Any suggestions!

[fintankeatinge]

Excellent stuff. Thank you. Job done, no cursing lol and only damage was my trusty old torque wrench breaking on retightening road wheels...metal fatigue. Looking forward to passing the NCT. Next the rear brakes...

[davidl]

Thanks for running through this, allows for tackling the job with a bit more confidence. One important thing that you don't mention is tightening the rear bush bolt after applying load on the arm. mine was loose as a goose from the supplier.

Here are torque settings (from the SAAB workshop system) for all mounting points:
Arm (pin) to swivel member - 50NM
Rear bush mount (the 2x18mm) - 65NM then additional 90 degrees rotation

Then after load applied:

Arm to Front bush - 65NM then additional 90 degrees rotation
Arm to Rear bush - 40NM then additional 30 degrees rotation

Please note that there are some much higher torque ratings given on several Vectra C tutorials and documentation. Not sure why as most of it is the same platform right?!

[FZ]

When using the jack to install the ball joint stud into the socket (and when preloading the bushing), shouldn't you lift from the suspension arm rather than from the ball joint? Lifting directly underneath the ball joint risks damaging the ball joint cap, right? Especially if the jack does not have rubber padding in the contact area, thus resulting in metal-on-metal contact between the ball joint cap and the jack.

[Sailor]

Hi CC ! Do i have to use a new nut on the bolt for lower ball joint when assembling a new wishbone ? Thanks for good video`s ! Kind regards from Norway.🙂

[movementonthetyne]

Same arms on the vx vectra and insignia good tutorial perfect run through especially the leavel sensor

[carsandtopgear]

Thanks from Texas! Just ordered new arms to do this.

[jarrahclarke]

That's an amazing run through, thanks for all the detail and background info!
Now I'm questioning my naive confidence continuing to drive with a louder and louder clunking 😅

My question is about jacking the suspension up at the end, seems a bit dangerous and precarious working under a dynamic sprung-load, did you position the jack under the rotor or something a bit more stable?

[ztifnai]

Hi do you know the torque settings for the bolts please?

[kaseyblackwell]

Hey cyd, I'm wanting to poly bush my wishbones, what would you say would be the best at home tool to get the old bushes out?