This framing detail will change your building.. #construction #framing #houseconstruction

[josephrivellino]

I'm been building 23 years that's not correct it will gather moisture that way. Always hang over atleast 3/4 with wall sheathing

[nobleroofinggeneralcontrac]

Any lumber that touches concrete needs to be treated.

[snarecat]

You effectively increase your chances of moisture wicking up out of the concrete & into the edge of the sheathing plus complicate an easy build by messing with dimensions & greatly increasing your chance of math errors, no?

[Tool_Addicted_Carpenter]

That's interesting. I'll start by saying I don't do a ton of framing, but I do personally like to overhang my sheathing below the foundation. I've done it two different ways. The first method is just using PT for my first row of sheathing all the way around. The second method is to wrap the bottom of my zip wall with zip tape so there's no moisture wicking. The reason I prefer to do this is to hide the foundation as much as possible. In a few cases with dramatic drop-offs in grade I've hung the sheathing as much as 18" over the foundation and used PL and ramsets to fasten it. That allows me to set my watertable/siding as low as possible to hide the foundation. In a rare case I actually used sheets of PVC ripped wider than 1x16 and dug below grade on top of ice&water+24" aluminum flashing to completely mitigate water from a vulnerable area while still giving the appearance that the water table was continuous. Just my 2 cents, there's always different routes that acheive the same goal. Great vids sir.

[TheAdamlans]

I disagree. I trust a drip edge much more than I trust a tape or building product. Plus, those foundations are almost never perfectly square as we like our framing to be, which creates and even messier detail of relying on some product.

[genemesser]

The overlap gives a place for moisture to get out. You should have.a drip edge for your flashing. If you flash it as described how does your moisture that condensates on a cold day inside the wall escape?
I do home inspections after many years in the trades. Water doesn't run upwards unless wicked. That requires a continuous connection. Hence the air gap at the bottom of a wall. I have seen the flat surface cause mold, water damage and rot, termites.
Plus i would be a little uncomfortable with that 2" wider gap than in the plans due to the engineered trusses. They were built to handle specific geometry or some physics you dont want will start to kick in. Build from the plans.

[koglioknows]

I hope your leaving a gap between your plywood and foundatuon, or putting a barrier between them otherwise it'll rot if it not treated. No none treated wood should ever be in contact with the foundation.

[rjcontra]

THAT'S EXACTLY THE WAY...we been doin it for 53 years. Everything is the same. We just order the trusses 1 inch shorter ONLY if the exterior walls are over 8 feet, so we can continue the sheathing on up the wall to the soffits...that is if it is a pitched roof. Flat roof home doesn't matter. Just pull 6 inches on both house types and go. GREAT JOB MATT...

[daneo]

You can't set white wood on concrete that's what the PT plate is for especially plywood that will absorb water especially through the edges.

[BWIL]

Can't tell you how many times sheathing ran over the outside of structure rotted framing ivy weeds etc growing behind siding sheathing I absolutely agree and layout isn't much more than normal

[scottreed]

How does the building get an inch bigger in both directions when you’re moving the walls in a 1/2” all around?
Would not the building get smaller by moving the walls in?

[hogansarver]

I’m a mechanical engineer and a giant pet peeve I have is people not following prints to how they are drawn. One minute change made can ruin the dimensions and math for the entire assembly/structure. You may think there is a better way to do it but often times there are far more considerations made before deciding how something should be built.

[jmachado]

Wouldn't u be able to liquid flash between the siding overhang and the concrete foundation and achieve the same results as the method you're describing?

[Treehandler]

Would likely be good for envelope framing but still seems suspect to air seal the sheathing to the foundation. I guess if the basement/crawl space is a conditioned space then you would
Mitigate most of the moisture issues within the concrete but the very top of the foundation that isn’t buried likely accounts for much of the opportunity for drying when moisture is wicked.

I’d like to see a comparison of two finished houses, one built like you’ve shown and one with the sheathing lapping over during a heavy rain/snow event and measurements of moisture content. Would be fascinating although I have a feeling that the only benefit of your method is that liquid flash can send out more free products to YouTubers

[DanielMartinez-rvsu]

And kids, this is why you listen to the architect. That sheathing is overhanging for a reason. Any incidental rain or moisture that makes its way to the top of that concrete will now wick its way up the wood and into the studs/insulation. Don’t listen to this hack

[BlueCatBuilds]

I like to tar the bottom of the plywood, caulk it to the concrete and framing, and if I’m really in the mood, I’ll run another bead in the corner.

[cidiotmoments]

I thought you needed 3/4 thick plywood on exterior walls, or is that Code where you live Matty?

[coreylemieux]

Yea I don't agree, sometimes we shouldn't reinvent the wheel.

[olgajoachimosmundsen]

Here in my country we build so that the house is bigger than the foundation. We have not only sheathing/tyvek - but also fur out and have an air space behind the panel, along with mailers. So in effect 5-10 cm 3-5 inches. The panel should also go slightly below the foundation, and be at least 13 inches above ground

[reubenjensen]

Excellent work Matt! Thanks for going above and beyond.