Pro Tip for Footings

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Cheap 3lb @Fiskars1649 maul for driving metal stakes. Don't drive them super deep, we just remove them anyway. When the concrete is placed, there will be minimal spillage. Line pump operator can prevent nearly all of that by placing the concrete against the sides of the forms first. I have calculated how much spillage we get and it's much cheaper than forms to the dirt. Foundation work is hard enough, save whatever labor you can. #framing #framersareadyingbreed #skilledtrades #footings #concrete #nicksboots

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Another tip, hold your concrete stake between 2 fingers with your palm up. In the chance you do miss you hit your palm which has soft tissue and able to flex and absorb the impact better then the hard back of your hand.

sandersonshomestead

3-Pound mall is my go-to for this task. That said, I drive them to just below the top of the form so they aren't in the way. I also have made forms where the rods go through the 2x. I wish I'd thought of it years ago. There is no need to attach them if you drill the holes just slightly larger than the diameter of the rods. I've even used #3 rebar for this task. The advantage is that the forms are perfectly plumb, and they simply do not move, up down, or side to side. Ripping them out is not difficult at all because you then use the form as a lever. Once you get it started, it comes right out of the ground. You then use a scrap piece of #3 and pop them out with the maul. They literally fly out with one good tap. I place 1x2 cross ties every 2 feet on the tops of the forms to tie it all together. O shoot those in with 2" 18 g brads out of a cordlessbrad nailer. They hold just fine and are super easy to remove. I remove them once the concrete is stiff enough that it won't slump but can still be worked if need be. No need for the orange caps because no steel sits higher than the top edge of the forms. I construct the forms out of 2 parallel 2x4's with 1/2" OSB, and sometimes 3/4 Advantech rips screwed to the 2x4's. Th8s works for 8" - 12" forms. Anything taller, I add a third rail. They are reusable for 3-4 jobs. I literally trim them as needed with each job and inject new forms into the mix. I have Advantech forms and rips that I've had since 2012. No lie. Once they wear out and are no longer serviceable, the unusable parts go into the dumpster. The 2x4's usually hang around for a bit. I use them for stakes and other miscellaneous things because they start out super straight and are good for many uses after the forms are dismantled.

Jeff-vc

I like the 3 pound Estwing Drilling/Crack Hammer. I have two. Comes in a 4 pound version also.

fredericdudley

Another pro Tip-- use 18" stake drive the stake down to the top of board that why you don't have to place caps on every stake 😅 though are $5 per in my area, also we use screws for easy adjustments. The Awesome framer are great!

katiereagan

Get the form setter from essential craftsman

Suamere

I was trained with a 6lb. One guy I know uses an 8lb. You definitely don't have to swing it as hard as a 3lb but you do have to lift twice as much weight every time you swing it. I might try this out and get ridiculed relentlessly.

Jonesocinco

That's a cute single jack, they make a nice double jack too

TheAxecutioner

Contractor I worked for years ago taught me how to set forms and tie rebar by hand. He always had me set form stakes to elevation so our form boards were flush with the stakes so stake caps weren’t required. Was nice for screeding, but they were a pain to take out when the job was done

PabloEskimofo

How do you plumb you’re form? So that you know it’s perfectly 90? I don’t know much about concrete but I’d like to learn

salvadoraleman

Hey Essential Craftsman's form setter hammer!

CanadianParamedic

I agree with maul glancing blows with hammers are more dangerous. Also there are hammer impact gloves that can protect your hands. I play guitar I use all kinds of gloves and techniques to protect my hands at work, even just my skin... So... Always stuff out there

andrewconnor