#258 Configurable Cases for your Projects (Arduino, ESP32, ESP8266)

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Viewers often ask me how I print cases for my projects. In this video I will show you how you can print your own boxes with a simple and free of charge method based on what I call a “Configurable Base Box.”

As usual, we will focus on how you can get the things done. It will not at all be a CAD tool training video.

In this video we will:
- Find the information to install Fusion360 and get a free of charge license for Makers
- Use my adjustable “base box” as a head-start
- Adjust this box to the right size and add some holes for power, LEDs, or other stuff
- I will also show you a trick on how I create perfect 3D printed holes
- and how I attach PCBs like an Arduino inside the box

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You are such a joy to listen to! Competent, clear and no nonsense, still as useful 4 years later as when you first posted. Thank you.

DataJanitor
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I like to see that you put the comercials at the end. Doesn't hurt to have them running while reading the description or running through the comments.
Wish more would do it that way.

ManfredAckermann
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Hi Andreas- thanks for this lighthearted and wonderfully pragmatic video. A joy to watch. I've used your previous screw boxes to date and will now migrate to this version along with learning fusion 360 :)

petervanderburg
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Thanks Andreas for your video
.
It's one step beyond in 3D printing for me, because I'm totally ignorant about CAD software's.
I think there's a lot to learn before I start printing things designed on my own.
The alternative is to search on the net what is closest to my use and modify it, but also the changes need knowledge, as you have shared with this video!

zolatanaffa
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Thanks Andreas, mostly, it's all you need.... A simple box template that's easily customisable. And what a game changer it has been for me to invest in a 3D printer. Once you get one, and see what it can do, it pays for itself very

tonybell
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Thank you Andreas, useful as always!
I‘m just starting with 3D printing and it fits as „Die Faust auf‘s Auge“ as we say in Germany 😀

KPTnVAN
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Another project that I will surely adopt for use in my future projects, simple a efficient. What I like is that it allow to have a zero inventory approach on plastic project boxes. These usually take valuable space and I don't always find the right one in my stock when needed. Thanks!!!

mmReefs
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"....You know why? Cuz it works!"
Brilliant one liner Mein Herr Spiess!
As always, great video with great information. My go to channel for tech
😎

ehvway
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Ken Brilliant. Thank You from Australia, a 77 year old bloke.😊

markneedham
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Awesome, i just downloaded the file, parameters are working like a charm ! Just saw that the missing holes will come later :-) What a service, just stunning !!!

heinbldski
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Thank you so much @Andrea Spiess for share your knowledge... Too many people from worldwide appreciate it.

agridronesmexicojmaguirrel
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You regularly read my mind and interests, I'm not sure how, but thank you! I recently 'jailbroke' my DaVinci 1.0a printer so it no longer requires their own brand of filament. That has also always 'just worked' but I wanted more choice and it now runs Repetier perfectly. So your video comes at a good time as I dust off my OpenScad and FreeCad after a bit of a break. You have prompted me to try Fusion as it has gained in popularity and your points on sharing are well made. Thanks again. :-)

gtev
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Hi Andreas,
I use the "Ikea" trick too, and am surely not the first - but with a difference - The LACK table in my setup is upside-down. The problem with the Prusa I3 design is that the base is not torsionally stiff. The top of the Ikea LACK is exquisitely torsionally stiff. If the LACK is upside-down, the four legs still serve as pillars for attaching "walls", "roof" and other anchor-points. It also makes the printer easily transportable. To be sure- I also have three bumpers under my lack to provide a non-overconstrained interface to the surface it stands upon. Result --> perfect first-layer each and every time.
Cheers!

AdityaMehendale
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You can right click on the top component and select „Export as STL“. In the Windows that opens you have to select „One file per component“

earlyreflection
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+1 for what others have said about freecad vs open source stuff. Freecad looks a lot like the fusion360.


You may also want to look into Octoprint on a raspberry pi for your printer. It supports the common firmwares (Smoothie, Marlin, etc) - just hook your 3d printer's USB up to the raspberry pi's USB port, then you have a web interface to interact with your printer. Also, some slicers (I use slic3r) speak directly with Octoprint, which then allows you to "Slice+Upload" from the slicer software. Works great

mitchese
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Very nice project. Don't worry about the haters always think software must be free or open source. Fusion 360 is the perfect choice in this project.

AhCup
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Thanks! I really enjoy your videos! Cheers from the guy with a Brazilian accent!

nogueirad
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EXACTLY WHAT I WANTED! THANKS ANDREAS!! :D
Edit: I like that you number your videos to find them easily!! :D

raagamparmar
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Other read the newspaper on monday morning. I watch Andreas videos. Increadible. Each time there are so interresting news like this topic. Now, to build electronics makes more fun, because only witht a box electrivs ist protected und useful. Many thanks.

josefknaus
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Brilliant. Full of sensible and helpful advice - as usual.

I am rapidly becoming a Fusion360 fan, having first learned about it on one of your other videos (and struggled for years with openSCAD) - and am very happy it can send STL files directly to Simplify3D.

This box template is just what I was looking for too. Thanks Andreas.

And… the reamer; genius. Have ordered one from Amazon.

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