Sensorless Homing, eliminate microswitches with Voron, 3d printer, Klipper, stepper motors & more

Increase your 3d printer's reliability and durability with these step by step instructions that show how to use Sensorless homing to eliminate microswitch endstops when using stallguard via tmc2209 and other TMC stepper motor drivers. Eliminate microswitches and their associated wiring. Your stepper motors become endstops. This works with Voron, Creality, Prussa or any printer that is running Klipper. This includes details about a homing macro as well.

Note! Please check the datasheet of your drivers to be sure Stallguard is supported. Not all TMC drivers have the ability. TMC2208 drivers don't have this ability!

URL's referenced in the video:
CFG files:

[tillburn]

Very informative, while being tolerant and thoughtful of other mods and how they impact sensor less homing. Great job reminding people to adapt this for their use, not blindly copy. Also thank you for citing sources and collaborating members of the Voron community to solve oddities and problems, what a great example. Great Job.

[Etrehumain]

I refuse to try, but by watching your videos, it helps me learn the different possibilities. Thank you, very informative to dive deepers in 3D printers and mods

[lxjmwoh]

This is exactly what I have been looking for! I searched so many videos for a tutorial about the homing macro so I could do the homing retract, but could not find anything. You should probably put homing macro into the video title or in description too just in case your video is skipped over when people are searching.

[deathgoku]

Amazing work. Thanks for the detailed explanation. It was easy to follow and prefectly informative

[mitsubishimakes]

I've spent multiple hours tearing my hair out at the undervoltage error. THANK YOU for providing a solution to it!

[radmin]

Another great video from a great channel. Thanks!

[Armordprinting]

Thank you for this. I'm having issues with my microswitches, and I'm leaning towards this route.

[SianaGearz]

I won't have sensorless homing anytime soon.

How are the switches failing? You connect them in NC mode right, so if the switch has failed, it must register instantly triggered and prevent further movement, i would think?

A little bit of a dumb idea but like... i guess i can just run a ground pad to the moving part and the stationary part can be a pulled up pad. Just a steel-nickel strip. Not ideal because that would have to be in NO mode.

[krakend]

I have the LDO Nitehawk SB that I just installed. When going through the set up of the endstop pins for x and y do I use the original values or the update pin mappings that LDO documentation had me switch to? Referring to this section, use these values for the sensorless or the old values before the nitehawk?



# Endstops


## XES - Toolhead PCB
[stepper_x]
endstop_pin: nhk:gpio13

## YES - Toolhead PCB
[stepper_y]
endstop_pin: nhk:gpio12

[ivyr]

Got it working, and it works really well. But I did go with the more sensitive values.

Edit: I ran into an issue that i solved, in case anyone else has it. Homing X worked perfectly, Y sort of crashed resulting in endstops being slightly off-set. Issue was that if you have a homing override in your printer.cfg then klipper will use that instead of the homing override in you decided to call it). Simply comment out the override and everything will work perfectly.

[otann]

Amazing tutorial, thank you so much! I've been preparing myself to make this on the weekend, but it turned out to be quite simple and easy!
Now with SB2040 I can campletely remove the drag chains

[nathan-shearer]

I have a tempered glass build plate, so I am currently using tap with the optical sensor. I actually probe at full printing temperature with a diamondback nozzle which works great, however there is still some thermal drift to the z offset. I plan to try a custom mod where I will simply break a circuit as the nozzle and gantry probes around. I'm hoping it will work at more extreme temperatures without any sensors or "low" temperature limit switches. My goal is a 200C build plate and >160C chamber. The higher temperatures mean I will need to switch to an umbilical without canbus and without sensors, and only wires going to the hotend assembly.

[microcontrolledbot]

I run 5 vorons and have tried sensorless homing. It just cant be trusted as SOOO many things cause a false positive. Voron was built for microswitches and SHOULD be used IMO. This is of couse my own experience and might not reflect what you might encounter but I've had to go back and add microswitches to my recent build.

[pwfO]

Thanks Kap. I had to set Interpolate to False else I had undervoltage issues. Do you know if homing with Z hop is an option or is it a problem?

[gjmi]

Thanks! I was just finishing the canbus mod and decided to do this mod too. Works like a charm! Still using Euclid and auto-z. I do not (yet) have a problem with switches failing. (probing bed at 110 C) I use a z-speed of 2. I noticed that higher speeds (I.e. 5) the switch seems to bang the bed. (I have a switch offset of 0.40)

[hermangaviria]

I have been using sensorless for along time, but I was missing the homing override as well as the other advanced macros you showed. This is very helpful, thank you very much for makin this tutorial video. We need more klipper tutorials. Can you please do one for canbridge on boards that support it?

[grathado]

just wanted to say your video's have helped me a great deal.

[alvinnoboa]

the home run current is the on that you using to run the x and y motor right? sice there is in % and in the config file is not. iknow that the sensorless file said that are those but just to confirm

[hermangaviria]

So I gave your macro a try on my ender 3v2 running a CR-touch. There is one small issue that I'm running into, usually the g28 command makes the gantry go up by around 10mm so that the probe has room to extend. The macro is not making the gantry go up and therefore the probe is unable to deploy. I haven't changed anything major aside from the coordinates and adding a z tilt since I'm running independent z motors. Would I use a force move or something to fix this ? I'm also going to ask on discord but I just wanted to let you know about this.

[Kravenovic]

First up, really great video! I really like the pace at which you explain the concept and the necessary documents. Perhaps you might want to consider normalising the voice as it does get louder and softer sometimes, but overall a 9.9/10 video!

Sadly, I sometimes get failed prints due to the undervoltage error. It more often happens after I QGL my voron 2.4r2, and try to G28 it.
Replaced the TMC drivers, changed the wiring, but it intermittently occurs. Went back to X/Y endstops and the problem disappeared; and I'm not sure why.