What happens if you tie the Alpine Butterfly Knot wrong?

Alpine butterfly knot is a midline knot that is easy to untie after it has been loaded. The problem with knots that are easy to untie, is they untie easy. We discovered while pull testing this that it slips, though at fairly high forces. We also discovered that if you tie it slightly wrong, it still works... sort of. Learn about this knot in this video and what it can do, can't do and then go have fun and use it.

What is an alpine butterfly
00:32 Untie tests
01:58 History of knot
02:45 How to tie it
04:42 How strong is it
08:40 It can slip!!!
11:39 Isolating a core shot with tests
16:28 Follow through inside something that doesn't open
17:22 Break testing it tied wrong
21:53 Ring load testing
23:28 Double butterfly
25:36 Renaming the knot

[gergopokol]

I was actually taught that the butterfly can be used to reduce shock loads on static ropes due to its tendency to slip on high loads. I would be so curious to see how it performs in that role!

[kenneth_romero]

I don't rock climb, but you have the most educational videos out there. I can learn so much, yet still not know so much. You do a great job explaining things and I hope you continue to put effort into your channel. I might actually start climbing because you guys make it look so fun and interesting.

[bumppo]

Great video!!! One comment, we use the Alpine Butterfly in fire service rescue all the time. We also tell our members, never wrap a rope around your hand. So we teach a different method of tying this knot. Keep up the great work!

[hamishlivo]

I think your production value keeps getting better and better. And you keep finding interesting things with your tests. Awesome stuff 😎

[DantesChronicOdyssey]

That was the best explanation of how to tie a double alpine butterfly that I have ever seen. Thank you.

[matthewlueder]

Not sure if I should share this, but I was literally wiping my ass when you said "right after you're done wiping". For a second I was afraid I was in a Black Mirror episode.

[GionetTodesco]

One of my favorite knots for sharing loads on anchor points due to the multi directional capabilities, temporarily isolating rope damage always adding an overhand as explained on min 13:21, attaching stuff etc… it is a fantastic knot, Also many different ways to tie it ( be aware of the fake one ), as any other knot and rope related stuff it will be safe if done it right. Thank you guys again for sharing such an educational content, what a great channel.

[joshuabean]

My favorite knot. I've been wanting these tests. Thank you!

[mrnobody]

As one of those pedantic "knot guys, " I appreciate this deep dive in the Phallic Knot. I look forward to more knot tests *cough* left handed sheet bend *cough*

[Profixt]

So... THAT"s how I have to tie the knot from our logo... Finally a good explanation! :D

[cookrich]

Really grateful to see the results of the last variation you tied 'incorrectly' so to speak. In the UK, I know that as a cavers knot. I often use both to link anchors together, using the alpine if they are relatively close or the cavers if there is more distance between. I would tie the cavers as a slip knot locked off with a half hitch over the eye. 🤷‍♂️
Love you vids, thanks for knowledge share. Happy New Year.

[keithmanning]

This is a super well-made and detailed video. Great educational and entertaining content Ryan.

[theMAKAproject]

Love these knot videos. Knot history is one of my favorite things to nerd about.

[thechillinman]

Prusik Peak, WA. Amazing mountains. A must do for the 5.11 Apline climber!

[BenjaminLovelady]

I think the main benefit to some knots is being easy to check. As i see it, the only reason we use the figure 8 for tying in is that you can dress it nice and it's easy even for beginners to check (and easy to untie if i can remember which side for the loaded strand). Tons of other knots are super good enough.

Personally, I found it really hard to tell the difference between the butterfly mistakes. But seeing how the "wrong" butterflies are still strong makes me less scared (though I'll definitely do an overhand backup on a core shot now)

I need to look through and see if you've tested the wrong ways of tying a bowline as that's the one knot i've actually argued with someone about which was the "right" knot.

[gontecher]

Prusik Peak in The Enchantments within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness (in Washington)

[macman]

I find the twist method something I'll never forget, best method for me.

[WillNGo]

Great video. This one is a classic. I practiced my knots just as you said, while watching YouTube. Then I went sailing for three months. Alpine Butterfly, bowline? bulletproof. I can do it one handed with my eyes closed. My rolling hitch and cleat unreliable. Why? Because I didn't have a railing, life line or cleat by my computer to practice on. And I only tied these on my boat when I needed them (and then retied them.) Three months of sailing every day. Using these knots daily. I was still unreliable, not automatic. The other sailors had more experience than me but inevitably while they were mumbling something about a rabbit and a tree, I'd just reach in and crank off the bowline. I think I've learned that while you might learn knots on the job, it's far better to deliberately practice them becoming more and more efficient. You want them to be automatic and correct. (If I tied a bowline wrong it would feel wrong.)
I just learned about the Inuit Bowline. It's a bit more secure than a regular bowline. (Inuit because it was noticed being used on a dog sled over 150 years ago.) So on a sailboat, good to have. Climbing? Maybe for gear but not yer butt. Not yet.
I learned almost immediately how to tie the Inuit Bowline by seeing how it was different from the automatic bowline method. ('Car start turn loop', pull the top line through the loop run the bitter end through that loop, roll it over. For the Inuit Bowline the only difference is you pull line below the first loop to make the second loop. If you know the first method you now immediately know how to do the Inuit.) And for the record: I was a terrible Boy Scout, my knots sucked. But I learned.

[stephenduvall]

It would be really cool if you got one of those thermal cameras for you phone to see the heat generated in the rope.

[darrenstuart]

This is a great video but, for the love of God, why not show a pull test on the double butterfly? That is one of the most used knots for retrievable anchors and load share systems in Rope access. These are considered two independent knots in one and used in a two rope system. It is widely used throughout the industry, yet I have never seen conclusive testing on it. Help us HowNOT2! You're our only hope!!