Lower Ball Joint Testing - How To Diagnose

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After 8 years and 128k miles, the oem lower ball joint for this 2010 Subaru Impreza started to fail. I thought I'd show how you can quickly (hopefully) diagnose the lower ball joint for your vehicle. Typical symptoms include thunks, thumps, clunks, knocks and overall annoyance as your drive over any uneven road service.

We'll go over:
Lower Ball Joints
Upper Ball Joints
Lower Control Arm
Stabilizer Links
Anti-Roll Bar or Sway Bar Links

Note:
Any attempt to repair automotive parts and/or systems carries risk of personal injury. Always adhere and follow safe practices when working on vehicles. Such as, safety glasses, jack stands, no loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Carsntoys is a member of the Amazon Influencer Program.

Publication, reproduction or distribution of this film is strictly prohibited.

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#balljoint
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That was very informative, I have worn control arm bushings and they knock like hell on any road imperfections but are very quiet on a smooth road.

billwilson
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It needed another alignment. They didn't do it right the first time. Much better now. Thank you

hepper
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Your diagnosis mostly applies to severely worn out ball joints. They will start creating other symptoms before you hear such "clunking" noise...such as the steering wheel wandering slightly from side to side at speed when encountering imperfections on the road (this also applies to worn out bushings in the lower control arm, as well as upper control arm [if the vehicle is so equipped]), as well as vibration through the steering wheel.

onlyonecannoli
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All my vehicles have had too much spirited driving, the plastic carpet always falls off. You have such impressive tools that would cost me 1000 GBP... but...I will still have a try and teach my girls. Garage men keep holding us to Randsome otherwise. Thanks for the enthusiastic sharing.

E-qb
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You have given me a lot of clues where to look for the clanking noise on my A180CDI, I am very grateful for your simple advise, which I did not get from the Mercedes garages
Thanks again

herunpersun
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I have a 2010 CRV that started a metallic squeaking sound, which I believed to be the ball joints drying out. The rubber boot around the joint was pretty much collapsed, so I took a grease gun with a hypodermic needle and pumped grease into the boot / joint. The noise has decreased a lot, but this will only buy some time. It’s an old trick a mechanic friend showed me years ago. Wish they would go back to using grease fittings again but they make more $ fixing problems than preventing them.

jackmeredith
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How does the clunking differ from a bad ball joint vs bad lower control arm bushings?

phxrsx
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My 2011 Accord sounded like a steering problem. It was the ball joints. The sound was like two pieces of leather rubbing together. For two years no one could figure it out. The dealership said it was the front struts. Another mechanic said it was the steering fluid. Nearly 2 years later after those wrong diagnosis the sound got worse. That’s when the dealership figured it out. My car is in Toronto and the ball joints were changed at 294, 000 km. Replacing both ball joints and wheels alignment: $915 after tax (Feb 2022) at the dealership.

niewojt
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When it comes to isolating sway bar links, etc, try using a rubber mallet, tap the parts to see if they click or chunk, using varying amounts of force. Strike from different sides and compare. Compare left to right sides of the car. On sway bar links be sure car is level or they'll be under heavy load. Don't use a steel hammer.

mmpiforall
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The reason why all driver side ball joints are failing is teh city man hole covers. Thats why I always take the center lanes, it will save you a lot of money, it prevents tire pinch, bent rims, ball joint and longer lasting shocks. So keep center lanes and stay away from the left lanes and those nasty man hole covers that are never level to the road, some can have 1-2 inch drop.

obazaar
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Thanks for the informative video. I definitely heard the clunking noise you mention. The mechanic has basically told me what you stated, so am more confident that the problem is the ball joint.

nomadicroadrat
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These are helpful videos to narrow down potential problems. Rising prices and green new prejudices can ruin your holidays.

marcpadilla
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So do yo recommend to replace the entire control arm? Instead of just replacing the ball joint? I'm at 130k on my 2015 XC Subaru Crosstrek.

agoodjuan
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My 2014 Chevy Suburban only does a “clunk” sound when going from stop and go. When moving along or hitting speed bumps, there’s no clunking. Only when car is idling and you start to move, then it clunks one time at left front tire.
I did that 12 to 6 tilt on the wheel, and it has significant movement

adewey
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I have definitely had to replace the sway bar links on my Subaru, same year same model. The clunk sound way worse than it is, but easy fix . Your videos are great! Thanks so much.

chavagarcia
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I can hear it perfectly. Great info but not the problem I have. Good video!

rogeliorodriguez
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What about a creaking noise over bumps?

kartsilver
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I have a 07 pontiac g5! The inner & outer tie rods are new, wheel bearing in new, the control arms w/balljoint is about 2yrs old yet, I can move the wheel left & right! There is No up & down movement, just side to side!!! Everything has been replaced & I don't see how a balljoint can cause my issue but, I am at my wits end! Did u have any side to side movement of your wheel?

d.j.
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What would cause my truck to make a squeaking sound when turning or going over a bump?

joshmurphy
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Whats up! The same with my ford ecosport, but how Cam I know if the lower ball joint is the problem or if it is my steering knuckle, when I mové the tire, the mové of steering knuckle with lower ball its a lot, just like the lower ball dont fix with it, 🥺plis im. Wait for y answer

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