What is Caster, Camber, and Toe Angles - Beginner's Guide

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Video demonstration on what is caster, camber, and toe with regards to suspension alignment. For this example, I will be using this Ford Ranger which recently had new upper control arms, lower ball joints, and outer tie rods. I do have tutorial videos for those procedures, so be sure to check them out. Since the truck is going in for an alignment, I figured this would be a great time to produce a demonstration. #suspension #alignment #mechanic

Caster angle is defined as the position of the wheel in reference with the lower and upper ball joints or lower ball joint and top of the strut. This is the pivot point of the steering knuckle. A line can be drawn on this pivot point, the angle is measured and this will determine if the caster is positive, negative, or zero.

Positive caster angle is when the wheel angles towards the front of the vehicle, meaning it sits further ahead of the centerline. A positive caster allows for the steering to be more stable at higher speeds and promotes self-centering or the wheels returning to the center when exiting a turn. All vehicles typically have a positive caster angle, but the amount will vary depending on the vehicle and suspension geometry. However, the greater the positive angle, the more effort it takes to operate the steering, especially if your vehicle does not have power steering.

Negative caster angle is when the wheel is angled towards the rear of the car and while it does make the vehicle easier to steer, it does, however, make the vehicle’s handling unstable at high speeds.

Moving onto camber angle.

While we’re on the topic of these bolts, as mentioned earlier they are able to adjust two areas of the suspension. When these bolts are rotated, they can pull the steering knuckle in and out from the top, angling the wheel. Vehicles equipped with a strut style suspension, adjustments can be located at the top of the strut or where the strut attached to the steering knuckle. Camber angle is the vertical position of the wheel when viewing it from the front or rear. This too is expressed in a degree value, can be negative or positive, and these values can vary between vehicles.

Typically road vehicles will be at around a zero-degree camber angle, meaning that the wheel is perpendicular to the roads surface, there is maximum contact between the tread face and the surface of the road and this, in turn, promotes maximum traction in a straight line while maintaining even tread wear.

Negative camber, which this truck was experiencing when the suspension components were worn, this was an excessive amount which resulted in the inside of the tire having the most amount of wear. Negative camber can also be purposely done, either from the factory or when performance suspension is installed to promote high-speed cornering. When the vehicle enters a corner, the suspension compressed to some extent when the weight is shifted and this allows the tire tread contact to improve.

Toe angle is defined as the front position of the wheel in reference with the rear when looking at the wheels from the top. Another way to explain it is the wheel’s centerline position when compared with the centerline of the vehicle. This can be either toe in or toe-out. Toe angle can be either measured by a degree value or a distance measurement such as fractions of an inch.

Toe in is when the front of the wheels are angled inward to the vehicle’s centerline. Using the steering to provide an extreme example. Toe in reduces steering response but can improve high-speed stability.

Toe out, on the other hand, is when the front of the wheel angle outward based on the centerline of the vehicle. Again showing an extreme example. Toe out reduces high-speed stability but will increase steering response.

Effects can vary depending on if the toe is relating to the front or rear wheels. Neutral or zero toe will maximize the life of the tires and will be a balance between other characteristics.

Toe angle is adjusted by the tie rods. The inner tie rods on this particular truck have a threaded shaft which provides an area for the outer tie rods to run on. Allowing them to pull the steering knuckle in or out. Once that adjustment is made, then there is a locking nut when holds against the outer tie rod to keep the adjustment in place.

Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
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DIYers
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The repairs to this Ranger have helped me a lot with my 2000 4 cylinder Ranger. Thanks for keeping it on the road.

joebishman
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Bravo! I was losing hope and I had my doubts clicking on this video but I’m glad I did! Best video on explaining my main concern (camber) and how to address it. Straight to the point!

jmkx
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Nice video, VERY CLEAR INFORMTION. I now finally understand what my Dad taught me about alignments so many years ago!!! Castor was what confused me, Camber I got, toe I got...but CASTOR was oblique until your video cleared it all up for me! THANKS!

BW-dhvf
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Damn, Im new at alignments and I needed this. You covered all of my concerns moving forward on alignments. Now its just up to my experience to teach me the best way of doing them

joelh
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Thank you for making this video. I watched so many other videos but nobody seem to say it perfectly.

waynelgray
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Great explanations and visual examples! You are incredibly helpful!

HHumper
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i love the way you explained the caster/camber, i have a toe in and am trying to fix it myself. thanks video very helpful

gordizechevarria
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This is incredibly helpful! Best video on this topic!! This video deserves WAY MORE views!!! I had to go through many videos that only gave me bits and pieces of what I was looking for to find this! (Perhaps you could type more in the description to get more eyes on this.) My back wheel was leaning out after someone replaced the control arm, and I've been trying to figure out why. This is the answer! Thank you!!

powerofknowledge
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Very helpful. Direct and to the point.

donniespence
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Good video. I have heard my Buddies talking about all this stuff, but I really didn't know exactly what it was. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍

AndysDogHouse
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Great material and examples thank you!

TheGibby
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great video! super helpful to see different examples and on different vehicles instead of on paper/pictures as i am learning about ssb in school currently :)))

taegenjade
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I *CRUSHED* that like button, just because you asked.
Thanks!

ryanshannon
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Thanks guys this video was extremely helpful.

jvmp-tjrq
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Excellent video, I have a Volvo C70II 2011, which has the same suspension as a C30, V50 etc, but I have an issue with the camber on the front nearside, do you know if there is an upgrade to allow some kind adjustment please ? I've fitted adjustable upper control arms on the rear already !

stanionman
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Had work done on my escape. They said my control arm shifted and my caster is out and I need a new control arm because it’s shifted. Said they bent the toe so that it would align. None of it makes sense compared to what you are saying. I have all the symptoms in my car you were saying after they messed up in my wheel bearing replacement. But is it the control arm shifter or the bushings that are bad or something completely different. I can’t get a straight answer anywhere and I’m so broke now that I can’t afford new arms. My car is my job.

Spiritedalphawoman
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Is it common to see black grease on the lower control arm ball joint after an alignment?

Rm-dqmi
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Can the castor and camber be together in the same car?

NecxusGeoffrey-ux
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The real world examples in this video really helped drive the concepts home. Watching whiteboard drawings really wasn't doing it for me. Thanks!

stereophonicstuff