Upgrading My Magnetization with Sprue Goo!

Sprue goo may not be pretty, but now that I've seen how easy it is to make and work with, I'm going to make sure I always have some on hand.

In this video, I cover how to make sprue goo and demonstrate its use in magnetizing the arms of the Cadian Shock Troops upgrade sprue.

Materials and tools used in this video (Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases):

#Warhammer40K #HowTo #SprueGoo
Chapters:
00:00 - So What's the Problem?
00:29 - Prepare for the Goo!
01:11 - The Process
01:51 - 2 Hours of Melting... Green Acetone?
02:30 - Sprue Goo After 24 Hours
03:10 - The Fill: Dentists Say This is Fake
04:08 - Why am I Sticking with Sprue Goo?

[eldritchsheep]

FINALLY, a Warhammer YouTuber that wears gloves when they handle acetone

[MiniatureHobbyist]

Great video, its good to see sprue goo being used by others, it really is awesome =)

[Mad.player]

I am surprised by how many of table top hobbyists do not know this technique. Previously spruegoo was made with Tamiya Extra thin, i use it as an alternative to plastic cement as it glues and fills gaps at the same time.
Tabletop modeling has a lot to learn from scale modeling when it comes to techniques and materials.

[michaelsudsysutherland]

An alternative to acetone is using liquid plastic cement on cut up sprues (GUNPLA modeler's keep aftermarket glass paint jars with each color of sprue goo for their projects for this purpose). While the plastic cement method of melting sprues takes longer, it can be somewhat safer. I apply with a natural fiber brush so I can clean my brush in the acetone without worrying about the brush melting. However, it will break down the glue in the ferrel of the brush, so use an old paint brush that is past its service life. Most aftermarket glass paint jars have a seal that is unlikely to be compromised by acetone vapor, and there are plastic containers (mostly for foods) that won't melt with acetone. Obviously, you will want to test a container before using, and never put food in it again (less because of the acetone, more because of the plastic breaking down from contact with the chemical...). My experience with acetone in smoothing 3D prints has shown me that there are quite a few plastics that don't react to the acetone like PLA, and whatever they use to make refillable paint pens (which are great for applying small amounts of acetone to an area needing smooting or paint removed). ABS, styrene (sprue plastics) however love to melt, making chemical welding quite feasible for assembly, gap filling, and some modifucations like smoothing.

[RuffStuff]

Tamiya super thin brush on glue, a lot of people use this because it is a plastic welder with excellent capillary action. Once you use about 1/3 of the bottle just get a new one and start dropping bits of sprue into the old one. Whalaa, sprue goo, with a brush on applicator.

Also, I have never noticed this stuff being "porous", but I only use it for gap filling, which it excels at.

[bradlothrop]

As stated before, about 1/4 to 1/5th of the remaining jar of the Tamiya "green cap" glue, just load in some cut sprue, works nice and an already known container proof against the solvent. I too applaud the safety measures taken.

[Moorhuehnchen]

to prevent the amount of bubbles you had: put the stuff you want to use onto baking paper and roll it out then take what you need off of it with a scalpel and use it. what you don't need you just throw just back into your jar

[charlesballard]

I needed model putty about about 40 years ago and had none. It was a holiday, everything was closed and I did not want to wait until the next day to work on my model. So I theorized that shaving some sprue with a heavy exacto blade and adding some Testors model cement from a tube would melt it into a thick plastic putty. I did it, and it worked. I kept the unused shavings in a "Cafe au Lait" tin with a lid. Now that I think of it... I wonder what the hell ever happened to that thing? If I ever needed putty quick and I had none, this was my technique. And you call essentially the same technique "Sprue Goo". Then that's what I'm calling my substance from now on. Great vid.

[matthewseidl]

I'm glad you liked the idea. It does seem like you really need to pack it down, or even partially let it set before using it, to avoid those air bubbles. But I bet it ahears really well.

[billestew]

Evergreen sheet styrene cut into small sheets added to Tamiya extra thin, the best recipe IMHO

[ephemeraldgames]

Acetone melted "sprue goo" has all sorts of drawbacks, but rubber cement style is glorious. Absolute game changer when it comes to assembly and gap filling

[Steve-drrr]

Use tamiya thin glue bottle when it’s half way then buy a new one and add the sprue bits to the half bottle of glue and it’s solvent proof container

[priitmolder]

Sprue Goo aka dissolved ABS. The process is also known as chemical welding as the solvent will dissolve into the base material and allows mixing of the "filler". One major use of this technique is welding PMMA plastic together, with special "glue" that is essentially clear PMMA plastic dissolved in the solvent. One downside of chemical welding is you will never get all of the solvent out.

[ErnestAutist]

After messing with this stuff quite a lot, it's the leftover acetone in the goo that is creating the bubbles. Small applications of well-smoothed-out coats set mutch harder.

[davidfitzsimmons]

This is why the various model hobbyists NEED to keep up with each other on their methods and techniques and not dismiss anything. Everyone has different techniques that fit their specific hobby that may be transfered over.

In this case Sprue Goo is a BIG part of the Gunpla(Gundam kits) and similar precolored model community. This is a key reason why it was more popular and well known in Gunpla then in normal scale model or even wargaming communities. There is less of a need to make a cement putty the same color as the plastic when everything is the same grey color that is getting painted over anyway.

In the Gunpla community we use sprue goo to do things like fix up nasty nub pits, overly bad gaps(rare in Gunpla), or especially for customizing and you do not really want to repaint everything but just want to do a simple top coat and panel line afterwards. When you do the sprue goo right and with some sanding and filing, you will find it impossible to see where the sprue goo was even unpainted.


HOWEVER, I HAVE A MASSIVE BIG IMPORTANT WARNING AND TIP THAT MUST BE FOLLOWED when using sprue goo like this. You MUST MUST MUUUUST use a pure thin cement, you want it to be 100% solvent ideally. Cements use a clear or white styrene filler to help thicken them up to different consistencies for different kinds of jobs. This filler WILL discolor the sprue goo. So you need the pure extra thin stuff.

[jeepowner]

Assembled and magnetized my first 40k model a couple hours ago. Thx for all the tips

[shannonchurchill]

I think a simple solution is to mix small amounts of sprue goo in an empty Tamiya thin cement bottle. That way you have a brush already in the jar.

[xjarhead]

I know it as sprue glue. I use the orange tube of testors glue to make it usually since it's cheaper than other plastic cements. Never used acetone and don't think it would be as good.
Scale modelers have been doing this for decades.

[bobyoung]

I've made Sprue Goo for decades and have filled everything except my own dental work. Acetone is an ideal emulsifier, but if you use too much your Goo will be runny and too "hot. " it won't cure correctly and may melt the host plastic. I use Tamiya Quick Drying Glue as my emulsifier and it acts as an ideal gap-filling adhesive.

[malcire]

If you use tamiya plastic cement, hold on to an empty bottle. Then buy tamiya air brush cleaner (which is pretty much the same as the plastic cement). Put aprue in empty cement bottle, then some of the cleaner. Now you can more easily use this sprue goo to cover up gaps in models.