#60 Plastic V Stainless Steel Fuel tank?

Lots going on in this vid. I bite off more than I can chew, look at some new options for scuppers, start to make up some backing plates for seacocks, and look into Plastic tanks as an alternative to stainless steel - which do you think is better? I'll explain why I made my choice.

sorry for the glitches in the audio!

And here is the link to the document on installing seacocks to best practice -

[richhamel]

You're making great progress keep it up. Regarding securing your fuel tank, you could epoxy some blocks of G10 and if you have the tank manufacturer put some attachment points use bolts to attach to the blocks or stainless straps to the G10(?). Make sure you have access ports put in the tank just in case you need to reach in there to clean it.

[douglasthompson]

Been involved in a lot of wet core (both foam and balsa as well as other woods) repairs in boats and I am sorry to say that the only way I have ever seen or used that is effective is to remove one of the skins and take out the offending material completely back to dry areas. The closed cell nature of the foam normally used just will not dry although it certainly will soak up moisture and not just in the interstacial spaces. In one case many years ago we had a 13 foot Boston Whaler that was totally soaked. It was in a dry boat house and even with the outer fiberglass skin completely taken off that foam was still wet after a year! In most situations if the area is very extensive and behind built in furniture etc. it just is not worth doing. A few square feet of accessible coring is very doable if you provide the labor yourself but as it becomes more and more difficult to access it becomes less feasible. You have to weigh your priorities with a limited life span of what you want to do. Some things just are not worth your time much less the money.

[garlandgarrett]

As Mads (Sail Life) did. Put the heater pads on the deck and vacuum bag the underside of the deck. Vacuum bagging will cause the moisture to "boil out" and be removed....best part....it is quick.

[philthefarrier]

Patrick Childress, on his boat Brickhouse. Had water problems, he used a hairdryer on low power and it took over a month. It was fastened/ sealed to through the core. I think you might be trying or expecting results far too quickly

[nena]

Wow, I hope the sand works, I’ve never seen anything like that before inside a boat like yours. You are so funny, I enjoy your sense of humor so much. Love those new stainless fittings, I think they will look fantastic! I’m fiberglassing right now, so I better get back! Thanks so much for the videos I know it’s difficult but I love your channel, just love it!
Nena
California

[paulwoods]

Hi have you tried a vacuum? Put it on one of the holes and leave it running for a couple of hours so it sucks the moisture out. It worked for me on a freeman boat deck. I enjoy your Blog.

[gmoose]

Great video, I think you made the right decision going stainless for the tank the only experience other than outboard fuel tanks I have had is plastic bike and 4wd tanks and I have to say I am underwhelmed by their performance and longevity with several plastic bike tanks cracking after a relatively short time. avoiding galvanic corrosion should be easy enough just give the bottom half of the tank a couple of good coats of epoxy or polyurethane paint to isolate it from the electrolyte, also since it's a new tank might I suggest using Fuel doctor or similar when you eventually fill her up to keep her clean. you can also get water separating filter funnels for those times when you refuel from a dodgy source.

[KarelvanBrederode]

Have you considered using (part of) that bilge as the fuel tank? It would require a thick layer of a suitable epoxy over the GRP but you have already sanded the area so you're good to go. You wouldn't have to worry about fixing the tank in place. You should however glue in one or two baffles. You could also maximise the size of the inspection hatches. Much cheaper (and probably faster) than ordering a custom made stainless tank. Love your project by the way! Brings back sweet (and not so sweet) memories.

[alainmoran]

I wonder if the galvanic corrosion on the tank was caused by the steel engine coupler ... it was extraordinarily rusty for something that's often oily.


Galvanic action needs both anode and cathode in the same solution.

[normanboyes]

You are making great progress even if that involves going backwards at times. With reference to the wet deck core the only suggestion I can make (in common with others here in the comments) is to try the vacuum route in conjunction with a heat mat.

[liongod]

*_ Have you considered using "Foam Cement" as a bed for your tank base? It's STRONG, LIGHTWEIGHT and Everlasting. It can be Epoxied over to prevent any Gunge, mould etc. ( You pour it into the Bilge, rest the tank on top of it, let it dry, remove the tank and then epoxy coat the whole bilge area. ) The German name for the foam concrete/cement is "Schaumbeton" A better bed you'll never find and it'll carry the load where it's needed leaving you to only brace the Topsides for future removal! _*

[tamaralee]

If you made the tank of stainless, the tank sides and/or ends could be extended above the tank top, and shaped into bolting pads that fitted against the inboard sides of (what look to be) the engine girders. You could make up some further templates to position them. These would support the tank above the bilge, which would allow effective drainage of any bilge water in that area. Maybe 4 bolts along each tank side. Greg

[sjp]

I've just finished binge watching your videos. I've been following See for Sea for some time and have seen many Similar issues with these boats. I've subbed you and look forward to more videos. Regards, Solomon

[MiQBohlin]

Aye m8!
I think, I’d go with wooden wedges.
Btw, I hope someone is telling you how good your channel is: Informative, witty, profound and interesting.

[sveula]

Groco skin fittings and seacocks are the ants pants good choice!! Cheers

[nena]

Also, that is an incredible amount of work you’ve done, unbelievable! I wish that I had an answer for your moisture problem, that just pisses me off so damn bad, what the hell? Laying down a shit load of glass on the other side is practically impossible!
Nena

[SailingYachtZora]

Would recommend putting a pipe in place running down to the lowest point in the bilge below the tank when you refit it if there's room, so you can suck up any water that gets in there to stop your tank from corroding again. Also if you are having a new tank made, consider putting in a clear tube that runs from the top of the tank to the bottom so you can sample the fuel. If that makes sense I think Calder has some great info in his books on tanks. Shoot me a mail if you need anything

[kentdreymann]

Hey Richard.
Good seeing your energy and approach to fix the boat.
Have been thinking about the corrosion and pitting in the bottom of your tank. Stainless steel is widely used for fuel tanks. Condensate in the bottom of the inside of the tank should not lead to saline conditions where corrosion and pitting occur ?
So the saline water can come from persons (soap or other products runs into the bilge) but that would be general problem (that I haven't heard of) or from seawater get into the boats during accidents or a (tiny) leak after the accidents ?
In tropical conditions the water in the bilge dries up (water evaporates) and the salt concentration increases - creating the conditions for corrosion and pitting together with elevated temperature. Have you considered to check for leaks ? It would be a shame to put in a new tank and have the same problem again later.
Another thought, can't the upper part of the tank with all the (expensive) connections be reused ?
Best regards Kent

[matthewharding]

regarding fixing the tank, how about building a timber structure which the tanks sits snugly into. This could be placed into the bilge and the surrounding void filled with a foaming epoxy. Just an idea.

[superformOG]

just keep in mind the engineering principles of load transfer in that tank, the entire tank should be supported by the keel, not the hull. I would be very careful placing anything that could create a lateral load on the inside of the keel, you dont want your keel to split apart after a bit of pounding in a seaway!