Choosing the right Subwoofer

In this video I go through what makes a good subwoofer, as well as specs to look out for.
Features mentioned:
0:00 Introduction
0:17 - Power handling/Impedance
1:57 - Size
3:05 - Brands
4:32 - Fs (Resonance)
5:29 - Xmax (Excursion)
7:04 - EBP (Efficiency Bandwidth Product)
8:14 - SPL (Sensitivity/Efficiency)
10:05 - Vas (Equivalent air volume)
11:39 - Qts (Peakiness)
12:39 - BL (Motor force)
13:23 - Mms (Moving mass)

[bailey]

This has been the BEST video i've found that explains the subwoofer specs in an understandeable way. Thank you!!

[DGGuaglianone]

This is the best explanation of these stats I’ve found on YouTube.

[dayanmisiura]

Ive been reading about this stuff for a long while now.
But watching your videos just got something to click. I finally understand the importance and function of these specs.
Greatly appreciate. Keep doing what your doing

[MrClubgibson]

Great video! Finally someone could explain some of the specs on a driver spec sheet

[doublemanson]

🛑 I have watched and read a lot all of information regarding subwoofers from so-called professionals but this was the best video ever thank you.

[SanceShaji]

Could you please make a video on SQL vs SPL vs SQ Subwoofers and which brands make the best subwoofers in those respective categories.

[Rastapapulus]

This video information is more useful than what you learn in university.

[ExStaticBass]

The part where you describe how drivers can cut off part of the wave form. That's called clipping and is actually pretty hard on the motor. That's what causes most of the heat. It can also cause the windings to delaminate from the former which is what makes that scratchy noise we all never want to hear. It can be equally damaging to under power a sub too. Running out of electrical headroom is hard on the amp and can also cause significant heat in the speaker motor especially on the stiffer drivers. If the amp can't overcome the mechanical resistance of the driver all the current it can generate still gets dumped into the coil. If it can't move enough to dissipate the heat, it fries. Great video man. I wish the world had more people like us who truly understand this stuff.

[Pentenfi]

Your videos are really helpful. I just decided to build my first own sub and hence your info is really what I am looking for to get into details

[Patient]

Very informative and descriptive video. Appreciate that. Thank you.

[jacobmason]

This is the best explanation I’ve heard ? Super useful 👌👌

[vincentrobinette]

That was an excellent explanation of Vas! I never really understood that spec. As far as sensitivity, I would stick with "one watt, one meter". The 2.83 volts applies ONLY to 8Ω drivers. A lower impedance driver will pull more current, thus, more wattage from that voltage, falsely producing more SPL.(a 4Ω speaker driven at 2.83 volts will in fact, draw 2 watts) Using wattage as the metric completely takes speaker impedance out of play.

[norvillerodgersspeaks]

Nice channel. I have learned a lot of this from books and forums, but I am thrilled that you have put so much together such a well organized format.

Specific request: Can you make a video about making bass instrument cabs and the parameters that are important in it?

[gregkramer]

Nice job, I would have used a tool like winisd to provide a visual if you redo it. Also mentioning Hoffman's Iron Law would be good also.

[TimpBizkit]

I think with Vas it's more equivalent to a rigid plunger the same surface area as the Sd of the driver - the projected area of the cone perpendicular to its in and out motion. Atmospheric pressure air usually needs about 0.01 bar of this pressure per % compression for small close to linear compressions.

The Vas (if measured at sea level) is dependent only on suspension compliance Cms and area Sd. Cms is the number of millimetres a cone will move off centre with a Newton of force on it.

[budgetaudiophile]

I did that Like and Subscribe thing and you've been putting out steady content, I love it! Now . . .we need to put a Darkoustics build up against a Budget Audiophile build, LOL!

[jaredstedman]

Hi there. I am wanting to run two 8inch subs both at 500 rms recommended but advertise 4000w max power. I dont want to run an 8000w amp for two subs that im wanting to run at 500w each. would a 1ohm capable 1000w or 2000w work more than fine? and how do i know if im running the correct amount of watts through the speakers?

[MrWilliam.Stewart]

Highly valuable information. Cheers.
👍👍

[halrichard]

Thank you for a Video that is so on point and relevant for anyone using speaker design software. Having all this background info so clearly explained is Golden. I only wish this type of info was so easily available back in the 70s and 80s when I was interested in quality audio. Only now 40 years later do I have an interest rekindled.

[vikassm]

I once bought a solid speaker system with 6000 watts output. Used to draw 0.5 amps from the outlet at full volume 😂😂😂
Cost a dollar, so it was worth it. For parts.
Quick calc: 0.5A @220vac = 110watts,
class D amp rated at ~80% efficiency,
Actual output <85watts.
Considering 50% loss to sealed enclosure design and driver efficiency losses, actual sound output would have been closer to 20 watts 😂😂
6000 watts advertised to 20 watts actual 😱😱