Smoothing 3D Prints by Spraying Bondo Spot Putty

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Testing out a new way to smooth out your 3D Prints by Spraying on Bondo Spot Putty that I first saw from @Darkwingdad

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Here is a link to the airbrush adapter that I printed in this video

UncleJessy
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Love it jessy! I really appreciate the shout out. I’m glad you were able to spread the word more on this process. Obviously it may not be for everyone but it can be very effective in a finishing arsenal & as you stated proper ppe & safety everyone! Be on the look out for that DW care package. Keep those videos coming & thank you! If you guys aren’t subbed you need to be, jessy does so much for our 3D print community & he’s doing it again here!

Darkwingdad
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You know the best part of this video? When the adaptor was incorrect for the airbrush so you were able to just 3D print one. That, right there, is my favourite part about 3D printing. Amazing video as usual dude, always a fantastic watch 💪

Mistertyrannosaurus
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Great idea! I use this stuff already along with rapid build primer to smooth my sla prints and turn them into mould masters for casting, but I never thought of spraying it. The bondo spotting putty is so "dusty/dry" when sanding, it's really nice to work with. I've tried other solutions but most of them are "gummy" when you try to sand them. Great video!

RichardThompsonCA
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I've been doing this with regular injection molded plastic models for decades. learned the trick from Dave Merriman when I lived in Virginia Beach. I haven't done the airbrushing, but I have been brushing on thinned glazing putty to fill seams and gaps. I use a product called Nitro-Stan instead of Bondo glazing, but Bondo will work also.

critter
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I am very happy to see this highlighted. Darkwing Dad is extremely talented and knoweldgable in finishing. He has some insane builds on his channel..

JTJT
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You can also buy primer filler that basically does the same thing. It's a thick primer that fills in layer lines pretty good. I have used it many times. I often spray, sand, spray & a final sand then paint.

sublimationman
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I've got another option people can try as well.

I've been using Evercoat Featherfill G2 Primer for quite some time now, works in pretty much the same way. It fills layer lines, gives a well bonded hard surface that is easily sanded and takes any paint you want to use on top of it.

I used it, or similar products for many, many years for other work projects, model building, and to help fill tooling marks from fabrication on a variety of materials. I carried it's usage over to my 3D printing obsession a handful of years ago and it's all I use now.

It makes sense that the spot putty works well, since once it's thinned it works like a high build primer/filler/surfacer when sprayed onto a 3D print.

Featherfill is expensive at $125/gallon now (used to be about $75 just a year ago), but it goes a LONG way when airbrushing especially when thinned down. It does also come in quarts if you need less.

chipwallaceart
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Awesome video! Since you already have the compressor setup, a good way to sand the backside might be to use a sandblaster or other abrasive media like walnut shells. Harbor Freight sells a chamber for this to recycle the media, but you can also do it open air if you don’t mind losing the abrasive after using it once. I have been wanting to try it, but have not yet been able to make the space in my house! Might be a great way to get consistent sanding quickly and to smooth out high detail areas!

SuperMakeSomething
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@unclejesey. I like this idea. It reminds me of how I use to smooth old plaster walls with heavy textures. I am a drywall taper of 26 years. I specialized in restoration of vintage homes. We would trowel on the first 2 coats then spay thin mud on to fill pin holes and the like. But we did not sand the first 2 coats, we would scrape the high spots. So this raises the question of why you don't use scrapers at the start to knock down the high ridges of layer lines. I believe that it would greatly reduce the filling and sanding. Cabinet makers have been doing this for centuries. It reduces the risk of making the harder wood grain to ridge up. A set of cabinet scrapers are cheap. I don't 3d print, yet. So it would be a interesting idea to try out for a video as a finishing video related to this video. 🤔
Keep up with your awesome work. You are definitely the resin printer king 🤴 👏. Cheers for now from Calgary Alberta Canada 🇨🇦 👍 😀 👏

b-roll
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This is really a brilliant idea. Spot putty has been a savior for me for years.

collincutler
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As usual, your video’s are awesome. Thank you! Personally, what I do is Elmer’s Wood Filler - water it down then paint it on the model. Wait for it to dry, then sand back. Layer lines disappear. For a piece that’s glued to another piece - Elmer’s Wood Filler (not watered down) applied to the gap - again, sand down, and the gap disappears (as long as you apply it properly). Thank you again for your awesomeness.

TheBoskoMan
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Nail polish remover or 90% proof IPA has also been highly recommended for thinning spot putty, for working materials less harsh than acetone.
Respirator mask is still mandatory in a well ventilated area, make sure the filters are rated for chemical fumes & not just dust.

Code_Exodus
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I believe it was recommended to use a gravity fed airbrush for this process. You used a siphon airbrush. I wonder how different the results were between both types.

EXG
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Great work on this one! I have avoided air brushes but man.. may need to give it a shot!

DMusketeers
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I have also heard that in some circles that people are using this technique and then during the sanding process they’re using an abrasive cabinet. Using a fine granite silica to lightly sand blast the parts.

Freeman
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Woodfiiller (waterbased) mixing with water also works. And it makes your airbrush cleanable

JunkieVirus
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This is a great idea.
I'm in the process of trying out resin as a filler. So far it's working pretty good.
I will have to give this a shot next.

thezombiemachinist
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That spot putty is my go to filler and I have thinned it with acetone before - it makes it easier to get in to tight areas that you couldn't get if you were spreading it - but I never though about spraying it. Might have to get a cheap airbrush and give that a try!

rebeltaz
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I appreciate your take on this method and construction of the video. Firstly that you cover safety, PPE, and realistic cost.

Second that you actually titled the video appropriately and didn’t allude to some new and better method. It’s just you. Spraying some bondo.

With that, I feel like this is literally just a can of spraypaint filler primer with WAY more steps lol 😂 that you still have to sand down anyway.

FranklyBuilt