Scope leveling, you're doing it wrong? (part 3)

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What's more important, leveling the crosshairs or the scope body?
In this video we answer this question and discuss my preferred method for checking the scope.
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As one who has worked with many types of precision levels in my profession, I find that even the most precise are not very accurate. So we are starting from a faulty base line on an arbitrary location on the rifle. Your method makes the most sense though, in the end I believe the plumb line method is the best...and trust your eyes.

rem
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That works perfectly!!! I'm a gunsmith and haven't seen this method before. Never too old to learn a new method. Thanks.

danielnegen
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I also use a plum bob. However, I do it a little differently. I use a precision level to level an action level. Then, with a 6' tall bright orange 550 cord plum bob hanging at 40 yards, cover the bob with your reticle while the bubble shows level. 40MOA-1760

RyanBrown-fpvk
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It's very logical what you're saying mate. It's just that you have to think about it yourself and that is not always the case 😅 Thanks! 👍🎯

rapalaron
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I always use either a plumb line or a 4’ carpenters level set downrange to level the crosshairs. I often find that the body of even good quality scopes is sometimes off. Not by much but still off.

martinswiney
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Neat trick with the flashlight. Never saw that before. Thank you.

I saw this video and checked my 3 rifles with LPVO's. I leveled them using bubble levels on the barrel end, the rail and the vertical turret cap when I originally set them up.

Before trying this I bubbled them again and the first two were perfect with the bubble and the flashlight/plumb bob method. So far so good.

The third must have shifted because it was slightly off with bubble method and it showed with the flashlight/plumb bob method on the wall as well. Adjusted the bubble and again perfect on the wall.

So bottom line I was 3 for 3 with the bubble and flashlight method working in sync. My three scopes checked were to PA Compacts 1-8's and a Vortex Razor Gen 2 1-6x.

paulyp
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First of all, do not use the scope vertical adjustment cap/turret to level the scope. The cap/turret is threaded and will deviate from your indicated level when turned. Second, a lot of rifles do not have a truly flat and square to the action surface for leveling purposes. A plumb line down the center of the butt works well in those instances. Plumb line for final scope leveling and verification is the only way to go.

ricksweetser
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I've been having trouble with a scope recently and mounted another. You Sir have given me something to look for Thanks

iam
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Thanks for making a short video - so many guys waffle on for 20 minutes or more!

tetleyT
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The light and plumb line approach is the only way to go. Level the reticle not the body. After leveling the reticle take the elevation to the top and bottom to verify it stays level when adjusted.

BrandonHartsell
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I have been leveling the reticle for 40 years . This is the way it should be done.. There is a way to check this.
4 foot target at 100yds. With a 4ft LEVEL X on it. Hold the same on it. Dial the elevation turret. The shots should be straight up & down.

martinjenkins
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Always, Always, Always level the reticle crosshair. To hell with the body of the scope. Then do a Tall Target Test. The Tall Target Test is ALWAYS the best way to ensure that the scope reticle is level AND that the turrets are tracking true in the vertical plane.

Ricob
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Thank you for showing this. My vortex was way off so I used the recommended plumb bob/door molding

terrysharp
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Good video. If I’m using elevation clicks, testing on a tall target to demonstrate that elevation clicks move the impact precisely vertically would matter most to me. Hopefully both the scope body and the cross hairs are level, or close, but what’s on the target is what I’m after.

JeffinTD
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My father taught me long ago, , out the rifle in a vice, , level it out, , , then 25' away on a wall draw a horizontal line. Useing a 6' level, , , now line you scope up relative to the known level line

marktemplin
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Hmmm, never thought of the flash light idea. I do level the reticle against a plum line at 20yrs. Thanks for posting…

waynerobinson
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There's some great info in this video, but something else that you may wish to Rather than the body of the scope, or the reticle itself; what about the actual travel of the reticle as adjusted? I've seen reticle cant, but most important to me, is that the travel as adjusted matches plumb.

ls
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Bore site, finish on target. Level on rifle may not be level when shouldered. Don’t over think or over complicate it unless you have issues and even then it’s probably not the equipment.

danstevens
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I have seen that on some early acss glass, cocked on the inside. I always have set them vertical off of several vertical lines in a room. Corners, window frames and inside of glass. Then try to eyeball the scope caps level to the horizon simultaneously. I don't know how many scopes I've fixed from places that should of been able to set them up

sandsock
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You are right but it’s all irrelevant if you don’t hold the rifle plumb IMO

Airgunfunrich
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