Sharpening some blades for the sawmill

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Always something to do even when it's raining outside. In this video I show you how I sharpen my blades. Might not be the right way but it's how I do it. Hope you enjoy the video.
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Thank you gave me idea to put a knife sharpener in a drill

WelcomeToMeTube
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I'm about to buy a portable mill, this was helpful, thanks.

PDXDrumr
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An informative video and I found answers to my questions in the comments. Thanks

oldoldpilgrim
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I like keeping things simple but effective! Thanks

stevenray
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Thanks for the information very helpful, keep up the videos.

ssxchannel
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Thanks for the video. I'm almost at the point where I have to sharpen my blades. It helps to see how it's done.

jamesanglewicz
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Nice job Ben. I have about 30 used blades. I don’t know what the heck I’m going to do with them. I’m not going to sharpen them. Do you have any ideas how I can get rid of them. I have 1 1/2 inch and 1 1/4 inch.

tomsommer
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Thanks for this video I need to saw today and have only one blade the rest I'm waiting on I'm going to try this

rudolpholiver
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Great way to sharping your blades, been wondering where you have been, hope your new year is a great one, wondering what angle blades you like for oak and black Walnut, all I have is the 9° blades, they seam to do well as long as my blade tension is correct, and my blades are sharp, I have heard from other folks that that fordegree and 7° would probably be better for oak and Walmart hope to here from you

MONNIEHOLT
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Thank you. Great tip with a hand file. Based on my experience with chainsaw sharpening, nothing compares to a hand file, as you only take as much material as needed. What do you use to set your teeth?

differenthandyman
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Good sawmill subject. Maybe crunch the math on purchasing a sharpener/setter and sharpen other millers blades. I've done that since 92 and what I do is set the sharpener up at the end of the mill and the sharpener is working while I am working. I use the cats claw sharpener and timber wolf dual tooth setter from Cooks sawmills and I recommend the ding dang out of it.I've charged the same $5.50 for a 13'2 since 92 and that works just fine because my blades are always at the peak of sharpness because the sharpener is right there as I mill.
And my blade sharpen local mills purchase other services and inventory from me.I also don't have to keep as many blades in use, just a few at a time. I may get more sharpenings/bf per blade because they are not run dull and micro cracks in the gullet get ground out more often .A bottom line on this subject could be : A dull blade eats up your time and miss-cut lumber eats up the profit .

solidwoods
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interesting gives me another alternative on sharpening ty

Grizz
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wow Ben, do they cut ok? that looks pretty crude.
What about set? it is very important.
I found an Amish guy that sharpens for a big mill, he charges me 8 bucks to sharpen and set, and they cut better than new.
I noticed they last so much longer after resharpening, and he said he slightly burns the tip to make it much is not good.
8 bucks is nothing, i bet every big mill has someone, or knows someone that sharpens their blades.
good videos, gl

JamesT
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If you watch the video's for the professional sharpeners they don't sharpen to 90*. They sharpen to either 7*, 10*, or 14* depending on what type of wood they are cutting. They harder the wood the less the degree of angle. I agree it's better than spending $700+ for a blade sharpener though.

customcutter
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Thanks for the vid. Do you use the lenox blades from woodland or have you found an alterantive?

chriswade