BMW Rough Idle Finally Solved! | Easy Fix

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The BMW rough idle is now finally solved!

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I just had this same problem. I bought mine used with a very rough running engine. It's taken a week of work and a ton of part replacement and after replacing literally everything, I unplugged the MAF and it started running perfectly. Going to pickup my replacement today.

Flash-fwmq
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I just bought a 325i very cheap with this exact issue and I removed the MAF and it's runnin smooth. I'll have to look more into what the issue is exactly but this is a good start.

mrnicktoyou
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The video footage is crystal clear thank you. I have BMW650I 2007 convertible. Has similar issues. When the engine is cooled it is like roller coaster the RPM. Up and down. But when the engine is warm nothing at all. It was mess firing. The problem was the airflow hose and both side where the hose is connected. Had the three parts replaced due to age. The car start well with no issues. I guess having an old BMW650I you need a monthly budget of £100-150 kept to one side. Unless you are doing a regular maintenance then the cost would show. I just had the AC compressor replaced, the belt, dryer with labor costing £270. Need new shock observers front side and some parts at the back. BMW650I a fantastic and safe to drive with amazing performance BUT it has its cost. Thank you once again as air and fuel ⛽️ issues caused the my BMW650I issues. It was pretty reasonable to replace the parts at a cost of just over £100 at a local garage.

AlAlawi
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George the white wire wrapped around the PCV pipe is a heater wire and the foam you've removed is like an insulation. The wire is heated to prevent condensation forming in the pipe which would then form the milky substance that blocks the pipe/PCV valve which is that roundish part under the intake. These pipes are renowned for breaking since they become brittle over time, so definitely get a new PCV valve and associated pipes.

dabj
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It absolutely worked! I was stranded in a bad spot but disconnecting the AFS allowed me to get it home so I could check my whole AF system. Thanks a million my friend.

reggiebuff
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My 2006 325i has had several hiccups over the years, but I got incredibly lucky with the rough idle issue several years back. I managed to fix it with 1 single zip tie properly seating the intake.

DillonRust
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I had similar. The N52 actually runs better with the MAF-less tune, ESPECIALLY at first start. You should flash your car with it, costs nothing and its not difficult procedure, just requires a D-CAN K+ OBD cable and a Windows laptop (DO NOT USE Mac with VMware, it will appear to work but doesn't). If you don't already have 330i power, you will after the tune as it adds quite a bit of power and more responsive throttle to non-330i cars (323, 325, 328). You still have to leave the MAF in as it relies on the temperature sensor that is built into the MAF. Some markets already got the MAF-less tune which includes the temp sensor in the intake but omits the MAF. Its a BMW "tune".

mikedodd
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Thank you very much for this video, My 550i e60 is having the exact same problem. I live and work in Munich and this started since I had replace the head gaskets and rocker covers . I was supposed to pick up the car tonight and could not because on cold start the car is ok but when it warms up it starts shaking and the engine management light is on as well.
once again thank you very much for this video.

Trichur
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Finally!! Thanks man this sorted the problem out for me, was trying to figure it out for over a month now.

Natura-lity
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I had a rough idle on my e60. And it was my coils. I ordered a set and it took care of the issue.

maximaonsquick
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I have a 2006 523i E60 with the N52 Engine as well. I replaced the Original Sensor proforma wise with a new sensor from Bremi. It worked fine for most of the driving. But when i stepped full on the throttle at low rpms like 1500 and below there was a noticable shock through the car, as if the engine would not get fuel for a second or so. Although i deleted all the adaption values with my inpa software. So i bought a new maf again now from Continental/ VDO the Original BMW was a Siemens / VDO back in 2006. And i again deleted all the adaption values and drove it for about 30 miles for relearning new values. And....The Problem or the Phenomena of harsh behavoiur when stepping on the pedal at low rpms was gone completely. Also the fuel consumption was dropping and really good. And on the motorway the acceleration in 6 th gear from 60 mph up to 100 mph feeled like it increased. So my recommendation: Only BMW original parts or at least the company that was originally used by bmw ( in this case VDO ). This i can advise for all BMW Cars and their electrical components. 😊

mg
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From my research on these engines, the MAF is almost certainly NOT your issue, particularly without a code. Chances are your CCV pipe is actually broken and you just can't see it. Mine broke into several pieces doing my valve cover. This will cause a vacuum leak and the rough idle. The only issue these have with the MAF is actually the connector. Try giving it a good soak in electrical contact cleaner but I'm pretty confident that's not your issue. Good luck though, no codes sucks!

jameshughes
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Thank you. The description you gave sounds exactly like my problem. I'm going to try your method and get back shortly

johnnybuddy
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My bmw 116i from 2006 is idling exactly the same as in this video after i drive it for a good while. Bringing it to a garage that's specialized in bmw soon.

Pazaluz
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Man, you are fantastic !!!

your video solve my problem

my E92 325i rpm was going up and down while AC is on
and when ever it is on R or D

I removed the MAF sensor and every thing turned perfect, even the performance improved a way better

I really appreciate your efforts


I will replace it soon for an hem

MOMO-oukn
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Mine just did this. Coil #5 was dead. New coil, all good now. FYI, it did throw the related code.

louis_costa
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Greetings!
Thanks a lot for the tip. I am having the exact same problem, it started suddenly.

Zendywars
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Although the maf sensor can be the issue, it doesn't mean for sure the sensor is bad if it runs good after disconnecting it. It is possible that you have a vacuum leak, even more likely when you are experiencing rough idle right after changing your rocker cover gasket. It could also be the maf wiring but that's less common.

I did my valve cover gasket and my N52 ran as poor as yours did. I ended up finding that I didn't fully insert the breather hose from the valve cover to the intake manifold. Disconnecting the MAF would have made the engine run more smoothly even if the sensor was good.

islamilluminatedd
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Good shit bro I’ve done everything trying to figure this out and I’m not a car guy lol

melemonstagaming
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Thanks for video, it is always good to start from small things as they keep the money in the pocket

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