HouseSmarts 'Crawl Space Encapsulation' Episode 109

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There's a good chance that your crawl space is like most others: dirty, musty, damp and gross. There are systems designed to line crawl spaces and keep the elements out of your home. Lou visits one such project by Perma-Seal.
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That’s not a crawlspace! That’s a damn basement in my view. I am jealous 🥲.

haa
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Many states require at least 3 inches between the sill plate and the top of the encapsulation material/foundation wall insulation for termite and other bugs inspection. Not to mention that the below floor sealing makes it really hard to find other bugs, mold, and/or rodents that may have decided to live in that nice home area they've built.

I agree that there should probably be a crawl space/basement dehumidifier (not a big box store version, but high quality/efficiency, ~$1000 minimum).

GlueFactoryBJJ
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That couldn't be more than about R2 insulation.
I think code in most places is at least R10.
In the entire south this would also be against code for Termite inspection, not to mention you NEVER seal the floor joist like that, you are asking for moisture to get trapped.
Best to put up rigid foam on the walls of at least R10, leave the floor joist open and seal all vents, if you have a HVAC unit in crawlspace then put in a vent and you have a dry and conditioned space.

joenunya
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By putting that barrier on the floor joist above, you're leaving room for moisture to stay which can cause black mold to grow. If it's a true/honest encapsulation, there is no need to put anything under the floor.

jonhall
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In every video like this I’ve seen I never see anyone talk about what to do with the vent to the closet where the gas central heat and water heater are. Since the crawlspace is sealed off it can no longer draw air from the crawlspace into that room and then subsequently out the vents on the roof. I’m guessing you have to route a vent pipe from the closet floor through the crawlspace to an opening outside. Maybe use one of the crawl space vents that got sealed off.

ThingEngineer
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That's more like a walk wish I had that much room under my house

hickrystyk
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Not leaving any visual for termite inspections on the rim joist usually 4 inches or so. Also no need to insulate the floor/ceiling joists just somewhere for condensation to build up creating mold in the floor cavities especially when using a radiant barrier type of material.

integrityenergysolutions
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The vents are bad in this case because, air will bring with it moisture. It's also recommended in some cases to get a dehumidifier or some other way to condition the air in your crawl after encapsulation.

seansimpsonable
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What if in time termites tunnel behind vapor barrier? Tear it down to re-treat?

MrDonnyGuitar
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Nice video showing what is possible, thanks! I'd like to see how the entry door to that new encapsulated room works too. It must be air tight since you said the space is like a secure bubble.

avocadoinparadise
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Vented crawlspaces are a bad design idea that will eventually go away as a building practice.  Venting in the summer brings water into the crawlspace as the water from hot humid air condensates in the cool crawlspace as the air enters.  In the winter the vents cause the whole house to pull cold air in from the bottom as hot air vents out the top.  Seal your crawlspaces!  Properly sealed crawlspaces control moisture so that mold and other fungus are not able to reproduce.  I agree with those who point out that the installer should have left an inspection gap for termites of three inches at the sill is on top of the foundation.  I also don't understand the value or the need for the plastic below the floor joists to make a ceiling in the crawlspace.  That could trap moisture below your floor - it is better to leave that open to the newly sealed crawlspace.

eduengr
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The ground barrier is enough. No need for the rest.

buildingpro
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seems like you would have to rip this shit down for any plumbing, electrical or duct maintenance

ChrisD
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Wouldn't the moisture just come up around the back of the liner in to the floor joists anyway? That doesn't make any sense to me. Usually they seal the liner to the walls of the space to keep the moisture in the ground.

Jeremy-ivbc
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Covering the floor joists is a huge mistake. Will trap moisture and have mold and rot. Plus allow termite tunneling, all hidden from sight.

chris
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It looks good. But if you are only dealing o e side of the concrete foundation, the water absorption from the outside elements like rain fall, sprinklers etc. that absorb into the foundation has nowhere to evaporate, which is a long term issue that can cause structural damage to the foundation. If you want to seal concrete it should be done from the outside where the elements are. Not the inside where you then trap the moisture.

waltermarty
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Funny; I hear people complaining about "Mexican's" regularly, but when I was building my home I would pass through a new subdivision being built by MEXICAN'S and you know what? They were there when I left at 6:30-7 and when I got home at 5-6. Hmm, don't seem lazy to me and as far as the work quality; just as good as white American's in many cases - And I'm WHITE :-)

bloodbrotherdan
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I don't understand covering the ceiling with plastic. I think this is a bad idea, because any moisture gets trapped in the insulation in the ceiling. No gap at the top for termite and bug inspection. No sealing the vapor barrier at the top of the walls to stop the moisture from going upward. They did not show the sump pit or how the water is pumped out of the crawlspace. No dehumidifier. No mention of how vents are sealed. No ventilation fans for stagnant gas buildup.

thomasmorrison
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Very nice. But I don't agree with sealing up the floor joists. I would think moister can be trapped . what do you think?

bjnopoli
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I have a concrete floor and walls in my crawl space, dehumidifer is down there and my sump pump is in a small 3x5 drop down section next to my water heater and expansion tank. The vapor barrier that was down when I moved in is shot and there is cheap white foam board up against the walls that is also in poor condition. What would be the best steps/options to replace the vapor barrier and white foam board?

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