Better 3D Printer? Creality SE vs Creality KE

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I compared two of the most popular machines on the market right now, the Creality Ender 3 V3 SE and the Creality Ender 3 V3 KE! One is Marlin based, the other Klipper and although they look very similar, they are vastly different 3D printers for different people, but I think you'll be surprised at their print results.

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Creality SE:

Creality KE:

NES Model:

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Video Chapters (if any will be here)
00:00 Intro

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Nice comparison between them. Makes it easier for most newbies to understand and then decide what their budget allows them to spend. Keep it simple and to the point.

kschaffer
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I bought the SE then saw a video about the KE and needed a comparison and this did it so I'm just keeping the SE and dealing with what I got. Thank you so much this is what I needed.

LehtusBphreeflyFPV
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love my SE, didn't need any network stuff or runout sensor. added a pei sheet immediately, changed the hotend fan to a 4020, runs fantastic, price is amazing saw it on sale not too long ago for $170

QuietMikeW
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Nice camera switch between camera A and B! Loving the studio upgrades.

russdesigns
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The V3KE is almost the best high speed bed slinger imo. I had one before my K1C and it was fantastic, the linear rod on the X axis is so much better than the linear rods most companies like to use now, and of course better than V rollers. Print quality is great, noise levels are low, and you can root the machine + add input shaper for increased print quality.

alannguyen
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I own Creality Ender 3 KE printers, I actually like it so much I now own 5 of them. Just a couple simple things to know if you do purchase one of these.
1. Make sure the Voltage is set correctly for the power supply. All of mine came set to 230v and they need to be in the 115v position. If it is in the wrong position, it will continuously restart.
2. Make sure your pully screws are tight. The 2 main ones you have to concern yourself with is the one on the right side of the gantry and the one towards the rear under the build plate. Use the supplied allen wrenches to to make sure those are good and tight before calibrating.
3. Use gloves when touching the build plate. The oil from your fingers absolutely will prevent your filament from adhering to the plate.
Tip: One thing I do before I start printing is to take a little of that thermal grease supplied, and lightly coat the tip of your nozzle with it. (Do not clump it on there.) This will help prevent filament from sticking to the nozzle tip and allow for a cleaner extrusion. This will also drastically extend the life of your nozzle. (This tip is just something I do with all of mine and may not be helpful for you.)
Other than that, this has been a great printer and I have made some fantastic builds with it. Check the Creality Website for sales, and they arrive in about 3 days or so after ordering. I found them for $239 for the KE and $179 for the SE directly from Creality. Good Luck and enjoy!

DavidPalazzolo-pedy
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Very informative, i just bought the SE and everything works phenomenal 😊

Laloahu
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I really wanted to see this comparison. Thank you

TinTalon
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I do not own a 3D printer, but have been considering buying one. I was able to easily identify the KE from the SE due to the filament detection sensor.

silentshadow
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spending the bit of extra money on the KE was well worth it for me. You get the ability to print ABS if desired and the network capability saves me so much hassle. Just slice and send it over network.

SimonCools
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I'm going with SE. And I would say I'm so satisfied with it. So for so good. No chronic problem. New release printer. Everything so smooth and working fine. Thank you for your comparison.

hasanogulcan
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I have the cheaper model. I noticed the hanging filament on the face of the KE. It is an "overhang" and probably can adjust the speed and fan for that part of the print, or at that level. I have printed perfect prints on the SE and they are usable parts. I also have a total of 26 printers, many are Creality. But the printer that is impressing me for the money and for speed and filaments of any sort, is the Kingroon KLPi. Prints Nylon, NylonX, PETG, PLA, PETG-CF with no problems with the hot end supplied. It is Klipper as well fully wifi and open source. It rivals my Bambu Lab P1S with AMS, but obviously can't have filament changes on the KLPi during the printing. Bambu Lab is superior, in how it handles overhangs, but I think that is in their printing parameters/settings and the dual part fan set up. On the KLPi I can just print a fan outlet with dual side to side cooling. I have done that on many of the Ender products.
Anyway the cheaper of the two is fine for MOST people who do this for a hobby. I do it for work, for a private company. I bought a K1 Max and it never printed anything but PLA correctly. PETG: constant jams, stringing all over, and constant fixing the printer, with not much help from Creality as it was not a finished product. They would not take it back after them being slow to respond under warranty. I was still thinking it could be fixed just past the 3 months. It is not a professional printer at all.

GoodScienceForYou
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G'day m8....i just picked up the SE from a electronics chain here in Australia (today) for about $140usd, i Paid $249aud. i have the Ender 3v2 i started on in 2020, now its getting on in age, so in the last 8 months i picked up a Kywoo Tycoon Max, a Neptune 4 pro (won in xmas comp) and now i picked up the Ender 3v3 SE. My V2 im gonna retire her for now as we are in this new high speed printing age and i could do with the space it takes. Big Cheers on the well layed out vid, you came across very easy to understand, from A M8 Downunder🙃

genemaster
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I really like the SE for simplicity and intuitiveness for beginners especially, along with the analog handle as opposed to touch screen.

danielcervantes
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wait dose the ke have automatic network connection system?

acremotee
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Ni ce video. I've pull the trigger for the KE version few days ago.
By the way SE sheet is PC (polycarbonate)

deus
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I have been looking at a few reviews on these machines now since I am interested in getting a 3D printer to make some models that I create in Blender! What I can tell so far the differences are not that big but I was worried about the SE only having the SD card since I honestly have no idea how you are supposed to be able to transfer files to the machine from one of those cards.

I also wondered since I am new to these printers and have no experience with them. What is really recommended, is it just what is prefered for one self and can the printers work from any room? Do they have to be in a workshop or does a regular room with a flat surface work fine?

Would appreciate any tips or advice on the matter! Thanks for a great video ♥

sandydarkfall
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Thank you for the video. Just the one that I needed to see. I initially wanted to buy A1, but KE seems to be right choice now.,

Alen.
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I was thinking about getting a new v3. this helped a lot.

Ultimate
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I have have around 20 Ender 3/pro/V2 & now backed off to only 2. However, after 6 years of my 2 machines going 24 hours I'm looking at something more reliable where I could do 4 similar prints reliably on the plate rather than currently my failure rate (approx 9%) is too risky to run 4x 8hour prints one one plate. I have replaced every part multiple times and run SKR boards. Would you recommend the KE for my use? My current prints are basically "cups" of which I print 30-60 at a run. Currently on my old ender 3s at 60mm/s it takes 8-10 hours to make one. If I could (again, reliably) print at say 100-150mm/s and print 4 on a plate at a time I'm shooting at 12-15 hours for 4 completed. Sound about right? It is difficult getting them and specific parts here in Thailand but if they are reliable and don't need huge maintenance I'm cool with that. My enders currently need either nozzle/throat/extruder cog/ replaced usually once to twice a month with belts/wheels/PTFE replaced bi-monthly. I converted 1 to duel Z & direct drive but haven't got it tuned well enough yet to produce sellable products.

TurboThailand
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