Is My Bike Too Long? | Ask GMBN Tech Ep. 84

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With bikes getting longer, lower and slacker, they now feel like monster trucks on rough terrain, picking up speed on the straights and feeling almost unstoppable to ride! But for riders who struggle to get their technique dialled to keep traction on that front wheel in the corners...are bikes getting too long?

This week on GMBN Tech we're also fielding questions on misaligned brake rotors, troublesome drivetrains and various threadlocking compounds!

Watch more on GMBN Tech...

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Brought to you by the world’s largest mountain bike channel, the Global Mountain Bike Network (GMBN), GMBN Tech goes deeper into the bikes, kit and technology stories that help fuel your rides.

Our mission is to help you discover, dial-in and get the best from the latest cutting edge bikes and technology available.

With news and rumours, first ride exclusives, how-tos, the weekly GMBN Tech Show wrapping up and showcasing the week’s biggest tech stories, and more besides, if it’s off-road tech, it’s in.

Every week, of every month we seek out, showcase, and ride the newest gear and innovations from across the globe in an authoritative, inspiring and entertaining way to help you get the best from your rides. And when we’re not riding, we get geeky in an accessible, easy-to-understand way about forks. And shocks. And more to help you setup and maintain your bikes perfectly.

Engage with us every week on the channel and across social media – we’re here to answer every question you’ve got on mountain biking tech.

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What's your opinion on the length of modern bikes? Do you prefer the ultra-stable longer bikes or a shorter more nimble bike for slower technical sections and jibs?

gmbntech
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2:35.... thought I was having a stroke!

inthehead
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I put Shimano Zees on my bike with the same noise problem. It was the caliper rubbing the outer diameter edge of the disc so I fitted small washers between the fork and caliper to move the caliper out by .5mm. Fixed the problem.

inthehead
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Henry already did a Caliper service and piston clean in another Vlog ..I used his info on a set of Avid and it worked a treat !

andrewcollins
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Mark Bennett- I had this same issue with some Avid mechanical disc brake before and the adapter bracket was the solution. The holes are slotted for caliper alignment. Check to see if you are at the limit of the slot. I had to lightly file the mount face on one side of the adapter bracket (adapter to frame not the slotted bolt hole) to gain the required clearance/alignment. This was a steel frame bike so I think the real issue was that the caliper mount tab on the fork was not welded in proper alignment. Filing the bracket put everything into proper alignment and I found no unusual pad wear after some use. The point being that just because your having a problem doesn't mean that your doing something wrong. A part of that puzzle could simply just be out of tolerance.

BurtonsAttic
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this episode has so little views for such an important question. Everyone ALWAYS talks about big reach numbers being better. I run a bit short for my body size and would like to hear more about the benefits of that.

zsanterre
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You said that well, Doddy, when you said, "When you kind of run out of talent..."

robbchastain
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Brake Rub Guy: surprised post mount facing was not mentioned in things to check. That's definitely a common cause for rub. Ask your LBS if you have post mount or iso and then ask about facing mounts if you have post.

simonwenzowski
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Threadlock ...Get the locktite blue (medium) solid stick, not liquid. Doesnt get squeezed into places it shouldn't, especially on suspension bolts, where it can causes bearing rotation issues even. Or disc where it can leave a film between disc and hub around some bolts possibly causing micro disc alignment issues.

rupedog
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Lyrik guy....Defo first take a token out and Add 5psi to current pressure, check ride and drop some or all of the added 5psi as required. When u have correct sag but dont use all travel, its progression levels. At ur light weight, 2 tokens is defo to many, especially with the large neg spring. I doubt u will need any, try 1less first. Also wont effevt support to much again with large neg spring.
Add compression damping for support AFTER sorting sag and progression.

rupedog
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@Leo Likes Bikes - You might wanna look at Pole bicycles channel and Loam Ranger channel. They've done some technique adaptation videos when changing to true-long geometry.

polishguywithhardtospellna
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love that statement, keeping 5mm for that "o my god moment " you got to love them moments .

noddy
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I'll tell you how to set up your air pressure on your fork. Get on your bike and just ride it in the street and then bounce up and down on it as hard as you can without bunny hopping or anything. If the travel goes more than half way that means you need more air pressure. If it goes less than half way that means you need less air pressure. Don't worry about sag. Sag doesn't matter.

chtwonine
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5:48 check tighten the wheel in the hub bearings. the whole wheel can move from side to side, thus pads touching the rotors..

funkolog
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6:10 Brakes are definitely a science in itself!

unzulaessig
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more regular eh, you've finally listened to me, nice one
Ta

badlarry
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Brake rub guy... are u using a 200 mm spacer set up for a 203 disc? Just a thought...

rupedog
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I love it how everybody feels they need a super progressive suspension even though they don't even remotely use full travel...

lux-
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For the suspension tuning related question, definitely remove the tokens. My yari(160mm) came with 2 and I removed them really soon. Since you are using 1/2-2/3 of your travel, it is the progression that's tbe issue as volume spacers don't do much in the midstroke meaning you won't really lose support. If you do wish for more support though, you should up tbe pressure by 1 or 2 psi, which will help with support but won't affect the small bump. Compression can be added too, but I wouldn't recommend it if you have the motion control damper, as it makes the high speed compression former too, which can cause hand pain.

i_eatstyrofoam
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Big trend lately is to measure bike by the riders area distance. The hypotenuse of the reach. Any thoughts on this measurement tool

jonanderson