Guitar wiring: how to get a good clean solder joint!

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The three basics to keep in mind if you want your work to be as good or better than the guitar's original wiring. — Erick Coleman

For more information on tools and parts:
Solomon SL-30 Soldering Station

CTS Pots

Sprague Orange Drop Caps

Kester Pocket-Pak Solder

Solomon SR-965 Soldering Iron

Solomon Solder Sucker
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Keeping the tip clean is just good life advice.

Lou
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The gator clip heat sink is a new one on me.  Thanks!

thomasraven
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Shoot ! I just soldered my cell phone to my guitar. Damn it !

popoaggie
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Good tips. The alligator clip heat sink is really only needed on diodes and other semiconductors. Caps and resistors can take the heat - unless you're holding the iron on there waaay too long. Certainly can't hurt, tho.

bruceclement
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If any needs a helping hand a lump of blutack will hold a wire in place to free-up your hand. The alligator clip as a heatsink is essential and will save you replacing cooked pots and caps, Thanks for your help, it really makes a difference.

giulioluzzardi
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Good tutorial, (most on you tube are bad teaching and you'll end up burning up your work) Note the tip in this video is a CHISEL TIP. Do not use a round tip for guitar work. The chisel tip aids in efficient heat transfer. Also not mentioned, a 25 watt iron is just right. Avoid hotter irons as this will only burn up your work. (Hotter irons are for heating amplifier steel chassis for making grounds) Feed the solder simultaneously as the tip is applied to your work. Do not pre-heat more than a second, or even less than that. Feed solder on the tip AND your work simultaneously, as the melted solder will transfer heat much faster, solder flow into and along your work almost immediately. If your method takes any longer than about 2 seconds, you're doing it wrong. Good soldering appears exactly like it does in this video! Good work!

TheFRiNgEguitars
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Awesome! I didn't know about pre-tinning the tip of the soldering iron. This would explain why it takes me 1/8 of a solder coil to make one, lumpy, ugly connection. Lol. Getting ready to install new pickups & wiring harness in my newest project. Thank You SO much for this instructional video. You Guys at Stew/Mac are absolutely "THE" Best. This is just ANOTHER GREAT reason to keep buying my parts from You Guys. Please, keep up the EXCELLENT work.

kirktonkin
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It's amazing that this man has the time to work on guitars and upload it to the internet while also running Microsoft

Jeffman
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The most idiotic parts of guitar electrical components are the pots. Why manufacturers don't put solder post for ground is beyond basic intelligence. Even with a high or variable power solder gun, the amount of heat needed to properly flow the solder on the back of the pot is ridiculous. In addition you are risking damaging the variable resistor inside, and melting wire insulation even when adding the wire to the mix after the solder has flowed. The solder does not naturally flow to a specific place on the pot thus creating the potential for too much solder. Why after nearly 100 years there has not been a universal improvement is a shameful example of living in the stone age. There are pure lugged pots out there but the industry continues to use and engineer around this poor design.

ticklemystring
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I don't know why anyone didn't recommend it but I use a high quality liquid flux to coat my parts before I begin to solder. It cleans the parts and greatly aids in the solder flowing and adhering to the parts. Worth the investment.

Shaft-Industries
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Good basics makes for solid foundations. It takes practice, but do not let the work move after you remove the heat. The momentary shifting causes the dull finish and weakens the joint. Clamps holding the work in place is recommended. Harbor freight has them or you can shape the tips of clothes pins to a point and screw them to bailing wire attached to a board. You can revive tips with steel wool or extra-fine sandpaper.

seattlesix
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One common myth on you tube are the hobbyist solderers/ guitar techs who teach that solder flows to the heat. This is wrong. Note as the tech in the video does it the right way. The heat is applied to the pot case and braided shield, and almost immediately solder is fed and melts where the tip and wire and pot case intersect. Notice the solder flows AWAY from the tip (NOT to the heat) and flows quickly and wicks into the braided shield, a beautiful solder connection. No dull cold solder. If anyone follows the bad teaching that solder flows to the heat, (and pre-heats the work) you'll end up burning your work and have an ugly solder joint. If your solder is cold and dull, forget the other tutorials, do it as per THIS VIDEO! (and my advice)

TheFRiNgEguitars
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Finally somebody who knows how to solder! Good job! How about flux and lead free solder?

commonsenseyou
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Best thing that ever happened to my soldering: liquid flux. I won't solder without it anymore.

andrewt
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mama always told me, "keep your tip clean"

ClamsAnonymous
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Quick, concise, and to the point. Well done sir! Thanks for sharing! 2 thumbs up.

AustinDGoss
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I have to put on a new input jack and I've never soldered before.Thanks for the great advice.

mickwarfield
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Very helpful video with some great close-up shots! I just finishied my first ever soldering job with little more than this video and the wiring diagram as help, and everything seems to be working properly. The joints didn't turn out quite as tidy as in the vid, but at least they're holding.

dick-gstb
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this is the most pro soldering tips vid from all the pro soldering tips vids out there

seekeroftheways
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For almost all guitar electronics a 25 watt Weller would be about right. Don't start work until the solder melts EASILY on the tip.
If you plan to solder a lot of different types of stuff, consider a station so you can vary the temperature of the tip to match the job.

AnaphylacticSpock