C. 1869 Blue Dress

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This blue dress was donated in 1984 by Margaret Knox, who had previously been married to the late Germain Adams Hubby. The dress had previously belonged to Germain’s great grandmother, Sarah F. Hubby (née French, 1815–1884). Margaret and Arthur Knox lived in New Canaan.

This c. 1866-69 cobalt-blue moire dress is trimmed with blue ribbon and fringe. The bodice features large sleeves and a belt with a matching rosette of the same fabric. Its high neckline, forward-curved coat sleeves, and detachable belt are all prominent characteristics of women’s fashion from the period. The silhouette is dominated by the large, back-heavy, pyramid shape associated with skirts in the later part of the decade.

This elliptical shaped skirt is achieved by using a lightweight cage crinoline underneath the dress. Skirts in the 1860s maintained a large circumference and employed wild patterns and bright colors to draw attention to the wearer. Undergarments were not tight laced around the waist, rather women relied on their wide skirts to give the illusion of a narrow waist in comparison.