Top End Rebuild On Stihl MS260 Chainsaw With Force-Tec Cylinder Kit

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Top End Rebuild On Stihl MS260 Chainsaw With Force-Tec Cylinder Kit
Buy the Force-Tec cylinder kit here;

Visit the FORCE-TEC website here;

Engine Break in explanation at 25:05

Needle Bearing is Stihl part# 9512 003 2250

Cylinder gasket is Stihl part# 1118 029 2306

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ALWAYS USE HIGH OCTANE FUEL WITH NO ETHANOL TO PREVENT DAMAGE AND COSTLY CARBURETOR REPAIRS ON YOUR OUTDOOR POWER EQUIPMENT!

donyboy
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This is probably the best repair video I've ever seen on the internet. No BS, perfect camera angles, tips for tricky bits, part numbers....well done.

kevinandkeely
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Was looking for a video I could use to learn how to do the repair. This is the perfectly, well explained, thorough video about the matter. I have applied 99% of the video on my Makita Dolmar engine DCS5121 chainsaw. After being quoted 1000$ in repairs from the Montreal Makita dealership, I found myself looking to repair mine by myself and absolutely not throw it in the garbage. This is a semi-professional chainsaw that I really liked and I wanted to keep it. I had lent the saw to a friend and it came back with a bad compression cylinder, bad carburetor etc. Haven’t started it yet as I wanted to also rebuild the carburetor (as stated by the repair center). Bought a total of about 250$ in parts to save the saw. Worth it in my opinion. Thank you a million Dony

raa
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You saved me $280 in parts and $1.55 a minute in labor at the local hardware store. Parts were $50 on eBay and this instructional video did the rest. Thank you sir!

TOPCOP
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We are trying to repair our Ms251 and are searching videos. Your videos are so well made. Camera is perfect you speak clearly and give all info anyone could need. Thanks for a job well done. We will be back for more how-to"s!

njdiane
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Thanks Dony! Me and my 7 year old son enjoyed watching you rebuild this thing! I'll l have to search your channel and see if you did a video on your parts washer. That saw was immaculate after you washed it! The people in your area are blessed to have a conscientious mechanic like you!

You and yours are in our prayers!

SancteAlphonsus
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Thanks to donyboy73 and his YouTube channel, I spent about 75 minutes this afternoon rebuilding the top end of my Stihl MS261 chainsaw. His tips and instruction were flawless and straight forward. Although he rebuilt a Stihl MS260, it wasn't too far off from mine. I had to do a few things differently and it took me a little longer than it took donyboy73. I finished the rebuild, mixed my fuel a bit on the rich side with 2 cycle oil as he suggested, took it outside and primed it to get fuel back into the engine, then pulled the cord a few times...and she started strong! AWESOME!!!! BTW, the saw repair shop wanted over $200 and I did it myself for $87 including specialized tools needed to repair my chainsaw.

raymondcline
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As always a great video. You are easy to understand with your slow voice and great quality videos.I have a small engine repair shop here in the Napa Valley calif and admit your videos have helped me become a respectable small engine shop. I have always had a mechanical background but didn't know a lot about small engines 4 cycle and 2 cycle.I know you can always sharpen up by watching a pro like yourself.Thanks a lot for your help. I can actualy turn a buck now. I have built up a small stock of parts. I love Briggs motors and have good success with them. Not to hot for techumsah, kohler. but will take them on.I'm 73 and really love working on machines and don't have a problem making bucks doing it.I'm a retired welder.32 years welding in the bay area oil refinerys.Your choice of the Lincoln is a great choice. Don't you just love the winking welding hood.Be shure your lens is dark enough and you don't get arc flash from to light a shade. I always used a number 11 shade. and believe it I still have great eye sight.I don't think you can buy the American optics number 11 gold mirror lens today. Pricey but worth every penny.Thanks again Jerry B

geraldbasford
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Gosh, I don't have a Stihl chainsaw much less one that needs this kind of rebuild, but that was a really well done video, super thorough and instructive. That saw looks practically new after the trip through the parts washer!

rpavlik
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Thanks for the very detailed instructional, Don. I just finished doing the rebuild on my 026 using your video as a guide. The hardest part was getting those circlips back into the piston head, especially when the piston is mounted, but it was doable. I also had a bit of trouble with getting the cylinder head mounted. Those 4 torx bolts got easily out of alignment as they were tightened, definitely needed to take time and tighten each a small amount. The 026 was very close to the 260, with only a few differences.

hakutsuru
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Gave away many chainsaws, because of your video I've got confidence to repair them . Thanks

louzecchin
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Thats a lot of confidence in yourself to install the circlip without a rag or something covering the open case.

jmc
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Alberta Boi here, Thanks for showing the process, getting into the small engine world

FritzMadness
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Hey man I just want you to know 7 years later I'm having to do this on my MS 271. This video was a lifesaver. Thank you so much.

CptGooch
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Not an arborist or logger. Been a framer and general contractor for 25 yrs, but I’m addicted to this channel for some reason. Great job!

CG-spiral
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Thank you for this video. I did the rebuild and ran into a problem of my own making. After starting it the first time, the piston jammed in the jug. I had to take it all back down and look to see what I had done. I had trouble getting the jug off the piston. The piston pin had slid out of the piston and the rod. I thought that I had not seated the spring clip holder for the pin so I tried to locate the spring clip in the crank area, not there. I looked in my extra part box. I had forgotten to put the second clip on when I installed the piston. That's how I learn, the hard way. It didn't hurt anything, everything working great.

mattyoung
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Thank you donyboy for a great, instructive video! Your explanations were clear and your pacing was excellent. All the tricky bits were pointed out effectively. No extraneous BS. Good lighting, camera work and clear, concise English. Bravo. I'll be checking out your other vids. Thank you!

markblaisdell
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Great video. Local shop said I should replace vs have them do a rebuild. $55 kit worked great, 2 hours later runs like brand new. Thank you. Very easy to follow along, and replay 10x to get it right. Much appreciated for your instruction.

jeffholmes
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Going to need to watch this video a few times. Replace carb on mine still wouldn't start easily or stay running long. Tested compression. Barely gets up to 30. I believe rings may have gone bad. Probably due since I've had it since 2010. guessing about 400 hours on it there abouts. Rebuild cheaper than new. Thank you for all you vids. They have be golden

garageworksongsawesomeness
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Don, you ought to do a piece on mixing and matching Chinese parts. Two years ago I rebuilt a Stihl 029 with a 49mm jug. It ran fine until it lost it crankcase to cylinder because I used the wrong sealant on these two parts. I never liked the 49mm jug because it was a beast to crank and it liked to break parts - flywheel, clutch, worm gear and oiler to name a few, so I decided to put in its original 46mm jug. Actually, I bought a new one two years ago but never put it on because it cam in with a broken impulse pipe. So, several weeks ago I got a new 46mm jug off of ebay. Since I had a brand new engine with a good crank, connecting rod and piston from the engine with the broken impulse pipe. I decided to just drop it into my new cylinder. It fit fine and I sealed it up and put it into the 029. The sealant did not last 15 minutes before it was blowing gas out of the crankcase. I thought it might be the sealant but it was not. I used Permatex PERMASHIELD. At the same time I assembled and resealed the old 49mm jug because an inspection revealed it was in excellent condition.. I used assembly bolts to tighten the pan to the cylinder(6mm x30mm) and tightened them down with just a nut driver and left it on my work bench in my shop. Several days later I took the bolts out and the pan was still sealed to the cylinder.
What the problem was on the new 46mm cylinder was the pan would not seat all the way down on the cylinder. My new 46mm cylinder had come with new bearings but I had used the crank and bearings from the two year old 46mm engine.
Last night I started to think about what was wrong with this particular crank and bearings. I felt the bearings on the two year old crank were larger than they should be. This morning I grabbed the original Stihl cylinder and crankcase and put the new bearings in the cylinder. The crankcase went down perfectly against the cylinder. Using the two year old crank there would e a gap of about .060 one side of the pan. I could use the engine bolts to pull down the pan against the cylinder but once you fired it up the seal would break and it would start leaking two cycle everywhere on the bottom side of the engine.
After I disassembled the 029 this morning I started measuring the bearings the came with my new cylinder and they came out 1.575" with my dial micrometer. The ones on the two year old crank measured 1.578 or .003 larger than the new bearings.
What the Chinese are doing is mixing and matching bearings as determined by the tolerance of the parts. If a particular part was machined larger than spec - they just throw a larger bearing in it. Get the idea?

johnclarke