This is How Australians Build Fences? Fence Expert Reacts

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Today we've got another reaction video and we're sticking with the international theme here and checking out a video about installing colorbond fence panels from Australia! Strap in and let's dig into this reaction video.

I'm Joe Everest, The Fence Expert. On this channel, I'm going to teach you everything there is to know about fences. We're going to show you how to build a fence, everything about fence posts, different fence installation methods and much, much more. If you're wanting to become a fence builder, or if you're just trying to build a DIY fence, my channel will help you out. So subscribe and ring the bell icon, that way you don't miss any of my fence videos!

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Don't use bunnings as an " how to" search for an Australian fencing contractors

sxyvette
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Ok, the mistake with this "review" is that the Bunnings video is simply about installing the panels, NOT building a colorbond fence. Two different things. Had the video been about building a fence there would have been string lines, hole digging, retaining wall drilling and concreting (usually quickset) and, colorbond is steel, not aluminium.

kmac
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As an ex fencing contractor in Australia,
1 NEVER EVER cut the sheets with an angle grinder, they will rust from the hot sparks burning through the powder coating exposing the tin sheets underneath.
2 Use shears to cut the sheets, I used to use air sheers or nibbler.
3 Use a metal drop saw to cut the rails
4 The top rail should be level with the top of the post. The cap is moulded to fit over the rail for a much neater finish.

davidpascoe
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I own and run a fencing business here in Australia, we install Colorbond all the time.

Normally that first post would be cleated to the building to give it the rigidity you were talking about.

We use a Milwaukee bandsaw to cut the posts/rails, and the Milwaukee sheers to cut the sheets.


There is no aluminium in the Colorbond installs, they are all powdercoated steel. Although you can get aluminium sleepers for underneath.

One last thing, we cut the tops of our posts so they are about 25mm above the top rail to fit the caps and give it a clean finished look.

lyndenthorogood
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colour bond fencing in Australia , all upright post right posts and cross members are usually a zinc coated steel which is then powder coated to the colours supplied as is the sheets of iron, and concreted into the ground, and as you suggested, i would personally normally put the top rail more in line with the top of the post, the benefits of the colour bond fence is there is 3 sheets of iron in each panel and they can be removed and replaced as/and if required by just removing the top rail . (the reason for those posts being as loose as they are, Bunnings is a major hardware chain offering DIY video clips and i would almost guarantee that after the video was made the fence was removed )

krisnilsson
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Aussie here. The whole ethos of Bunnings is to go for a bbq sausage (a "snag" as we say) on Saturday morning and walk out with shit you don't need. If you want to build a fence you'd go to your relevant supplier. Fences are built differently in different states of Australia. Queensland has lots of Colorbond and expanded mesh/chain link (because termites). Down here in Victoria we have 6ft pine slats on hardwood post and rail. But if you're ethnic, the only answer is TRIPLE BRICK.

aaronhogan
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It should be noted that Bunnings (like Mitre 10 in the NZ video) is basically like Home Depot, and these videos are instructions for home DIYers, and not professional fence installers. Hence the use of minimal tools, and certainly not a portable bandsaw.
A professional colour bon fence, while very similar, is usually a fair bit more sturdy.

PBMS
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Fellow Aussie here. Can say, in most installs **if not all** the posts are flush with the top of the fence. As for the wobbly posts thatll be simply because this would have been a demo by Bunnings and probaly torn down afterwards. Only time posts may be higher would be for "privacy screens" or whatever there called.

unclejohn
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As a Carpenter, who does quite a lot of fencing, we definitely use string lines, the posts where I live at least are all flush with the top of the sheet and we concrete the posts deep enough that they are ridgid.

ABossLikeMinecraft
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What he's doing is the easy quick part of the job. He hasn't shown how to mark and set the posts, that's where you need string line and level.

johnzamora
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We don’t leave the posts high, cut them level. The sheeting is mild steel and 1.2mm post are same material. Use the string line to cut the posts level then follow basically what grandad did. Nibbler is generally used to cut on site.

drew-azureperthwestaust
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Hi Joe, what you call a gravel board we call it a plinth board. They should be used if one or both sides of the fence is garden bed. They are made of treated pine in 50mm x 200mm, and like in the vid are painted before installation. They keep the bottom rail (channel) high above the soil to minimize corrosion. Also yes always use a string line.

backyardprojects
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If it’s similar to metal roofing or siding (which believe it is, imo) we use cordless shears, nibblers, and even Circ saws all with correct blade (of course) for a good cut. Just our preference & believe Kyle at RR buildings does the same/similar…..

Aepek
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Mum & Dad installed a color bond fence around the property 31 years ago and it still looks as good now as when it was installed, top stuff "COLOR BOND FENCING AND ROOFING"

markway
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I’ve never seen posts sticking up like that. In my area 90 percent of fences are Colorbond. They are cheap and durable. Virtually no maintenance. My builder told me he put in his first Colorbond fence back in the mid 90’s and said it is still going strong. By comparison our hardwood fence only lasted 15 years. I’m always amazed how quickly good installers can put up fencing. Posts in one day, panelling the next. We had a panel accidentally damaged about two years after the fence was built. The fencer took 5 minutes to fix it and just asked me to pay for the panel - no labour cost. Great system.

VideosCPS
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Power shear would be the first tool I grabbed to trim the panels, portaband for the rails and posts

sambojones
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I mean this video covers the basics but there’s a few more tips to it then what has been said, as a licensed carpenter who’s work is 50% doing fences I’d love to make a video for you from start to finish showing everything to make the fence the best and most structural as possible, might buy myself a camera and forward you the video

MHFencingCompany
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Bunnings is our Home Depot essentially. But they do some DIY videos for social media. This video isn’t exactly the best representation of colour bond fence installation. It is definitely targeted towards a DIY person. Normally the posts aren’t high like that. The cap actually is supposed to sit snug on the top rail as well. Colorbond steel is specially formulated. It’s not just aluminium. It’s called Zincalume. It’s light weight, it’s strong and it’s durable. My only problem with this type of system is that you can easily damage the panels. However, they are cheap and easy to replace.

naileditfencing
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I think you'll find that his choice of tools, and frequent use of the angle grinder for different tasks is that they are the kind of tools that an average Aussie handyman or woman would have in their garage. as you mentioned, certain other tools. e.g. bandsaw etc would be better but they are mostly the kinds of tool only professional tradesman would use.

catey
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Back in the early 1990s Sydney had some really bad bush fires that got right into a lot of suburbs that bordered on bushland. When the fires came to houses surrounded by colourbond steel fences they were stopped a lot of the time. Embers could blow over the fences but the ground fire couldn't burn the fence (unlike wooden ones) and the steel actually reflected the heat which stopped houses catching fire from the radiant heat. It was quite amazing to see ground that was burnt black and covered in ashes on one side of a colourbond fence and green grass untouched on the other side.

pwdeller