How to Test Film Developer and Fixer (Black and White Chemicals)

In this video, I explain how you can test your fixer and developer using a small piece of unexposed film. It's super quick and easy to do.

In the example, I used Tmax liquid developer and Photographer's Formulary TF-5 fixer, but the process is the same for any other brand.

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Hi there. I'm Chris. Film is more fun is a place where I share about whatever busted up old camera I'm currently shooting and tinkering with, or my meanderings in film photography. It would be pretty rad if you said what's up. I'm 99% friendly. Definitely do that. Disclaimer: If you want technical proficiency go watch 'The Art of Photography' (love that show). These videos are more like an elderly person navigating a tv clicker.

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Tags:

Ilford,fuji, film, kodak, multipleexposure, doubleexposure, tmax, kodak, ilford, delta, filmismorefun, develop, selfdevelop, photography, analog, lightroom, adobe, darkroom, olympus, nikon, pentax, minolta, canon, 35mm, 120, portra, superia, fujifilm, diy, lomo, lens,

[theoldcameraguy]

I finally had to break down and mix a new batch of fixer last week. My version of a clip test is to wait until my negs look terrible, and then mix up a new batch.

[filmlovephotography]

Hi Chris, just a note in the fixer department, if your film base started to came out a bit pink it's time to make a new batch of fixer. Cheers mate it's always great to see you here 👍

[sonvis]

Great video! Personally I use my fixer for at least three - maybe six months. I beat the crap out it because it is the economical and environmental thing to do. I extend the soup time with a half to one minute towards the end. Never had any problems. 😊👍🏻

[nickfanzo]

it takes a lot of testing to match your film of choice, to your developer of choice, for best enlargement results in the darkroom. This is how:


1. Find a scene with with a good range of tones
2. Using the box speed, meter the darkest area in which you wish to retain shadow detail
3. Move the camera so that you are only photographing this shadow area
4. From the meter's reading close down the aperture by 2 stops or increase the shutter speed by two stops and then expose 6 frames at: the given exposure then +1 stop, +2 stops, -1 stop, -2 stops and -3 stops less than the meter has indicated

5. Process the film

6. Using the frame that was exposed at -3 stops less than the meter indicated (which should be practically clear but will have received lens flair and fogging - i.e a real world maximum black rather than an exposed piece of film that has processing fog)and do a test strip to find out what is the minimum exposure to achieve maximum black - Print must be fully dry before assessing this
7. Do another test strip with the first exposure being what you have selected for achieving maximum black minus your dry-down compensation then plus 1 second, 2 seconds, etc
8. The time that achieves full black inclusive of compensation for dry-down is you minimum exposure to achieve maximum black for all future printing sessions - print must be fully dry before assessing
9 You now know the minimum time to achieve full black inclusive of exposure reduction to accommodate dry-down
10. Using this minimum exposure to achieve maximum black exposure time, expose all of the other test frames.
11. The test print that has good shadow detail indicates which exposure will render good shadow detail and achieve maximum black and provides you with your personal EI for the tested film/developer combination

12 If the negative exposed at the meter reading gives good shadows, your EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 400)
13. If the negative exposed at +1 stop more than the meter reading gives good shadows, your EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) 1/2 the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 200)
14. If the negative exposed at +2 stops more than the meter reading gives good shadows, you EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) 1/4 box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 100)
15. If the negative exposed at -1 stop less than the meter reading gives good shadows, you EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) double the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 800)
16. If the negative exposed at -2 stop less than the meter reading gives good shadows, you EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) 4x the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 1600)

You have now fixed your personal EI but there is one more testing stage to go.

1. Find a scene with with a good range of tones
2. Using your EI, meter the brightest area in which you wish to retain highlight detail (but not the sky)
3. Move the camera so that you are only photographing this highlight area
4. From the meter's reading open up the aperture by 3 stops or decrease the shutter speed by three stops
5. Expose the whole roll at this setting
6. In the darkroom, process one third of the film for recommended development time

7. When dry put negative in the enlarger and make a three section test strip exposing for half the minimum black time established earlier, for the established minimum black time and for double the minimum black time.
8. Process print and dry it.
9. If the section of the test strip exposed for 1/2 the minimum black time gives bright highlights with a trace of detail then the film requires 20% more development
10. If the section of the test strip exposed for the minimum black time gives bright highlights with a trace of detail then the film is correctly developed
11. If the section of the test strip exposed for double the minimum black time gives bright highlights with a trace of detail then the film requires 20% less development
12. You can use the rest of the exposed highlight test film to fine tune the development time