AMGA Single Pitch Instructor pick off / rescue / lead climber rescue

This video covers the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor, base managed, climber rescue. These tools can also be used in leader rescue.

Gear you will need:

48' sling
Petzl Grigri
Prussik Loop
3 locking carrabiners

#climbing #rescue #rockclimbing

[Particularpete]

Super helpful video. It’s actually useful seeing how much of a grind these techniques can be. Slow and steady, smooth is fast.

[teamhighprofile]

Karsten! You are an exceptional instructor! The best video on this subject I have ever watched! KUDOS!!!

[hexclimber]

This may have also already have been mentioned previously in the many, many comments, but when I did my SPI we learned a couple of additional ways to deal with an injured climber after setting up the tandem descent. Either, position them in a side saddle fashion cradled in your lap, or behind you piggyback style.

[annwo]

Very clear! Great instruction for the aspiring climbing instructor!

[carlredmond]

Great video..excellent instructions & learning...but also top notch video production quality !!

[mintz_rock]

Excellent explanation of rescue techniques for this terrain!!

[Katie_Mayo]

Just finished my SPI course and this is the review I needed - thank you!

[ryanratliff]

Would love to see more SPI course curriculum. You seem very knowledgeable and explain these concepts very well.

[shanec]

Wow! What a great video. As someone fairly new to leading and climbing outdoors, these were scenarios that I had never even thought about. Thanks for the excellent and simple, succinct explanations.

[FriendlyFantom]

7:10 Clove hitch with the rope on a locker on harness would also work here? Can just adjust the clove every 3m or so.

[johnwilson]

Thank you for posting this!

I would consider myself a moderate climber, confident leading 5.9 if bolted / 5.8 if trad. This type of information helps me keep myself and my climbing partner safe, build confidence / practice for something like an SPI course. And if someone had no desire to be an SPI, that person could learn essentially the same skills as that SPI and could help local climbers without paying for the stamp (totally appreciate and understand the requirement for outdoor stamps as a professional).

Viewing from Durango, CO

[chocolatedumdum]

definitely done this before. great refresher!

[hitendramore]

Amazing video.thanks a lot.. very helpful

[axellefaughn]

Wow! Anna-Marie did some kind of twilight zone ninja move there!

[davidwingate]

Great video. Like the longer videos to go with the shorter Instagram posts.

If you were using this for a leader rescue, is there anything you can do to mitigate the risk that you are relying on one piece of gear/bolt when you reach the fallen leader beyond building an anchor when you reach them?

[hexclimber]

Also... In the instance where there is slack in the system, would it be better to attach the GriGri above the ballet device?

[hexclimber]

Would it be a better practice to tie that backup knot as close to the bottom of the device as possible? A fall of even a few feet could be injurious, and, in the case of a novice climber, more than a little disconcerting.

[revhead]

Great video - just one clarification. Is the sling 120cm? (would be good to add in metric units to the graphics for us who live outside the US)

[mattradcliffe]

I think that a little more emphasis on removing the knots on the way down (after the 12 minute mark) would be a good idea.
It would be a real pain to get one unjammed from the grigri if you settle against it with the weight of two people.

[felixd]

At 6:52 this is a 2:1, not 3:1

Nice video with good ideas !