33% of Rock Climbing Injuries are the Same. Why?

I've been a climber my whole life, and I've been injured a lot. I recently learned that a third of all rock climbing injuries happen in the hand, in the exact same place. Why? The answer...is dangerous physics.

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[JohnDoe-vcqb]

It’s because the rocks don’t like being held that way. Simply respect their personal space and they won’t get msd

[bayoudrummer]

I’ve had the same injury doing bricklaying. Constantly “crimping” grabbing 80lbs bags of cement and also shoveling. I had to take a break and it eventually got better but this is good knowledge

[FullOnGritz]

As someone who use to be a physicist and engineer, I also use to be a climbing instructor. I think it is largely due to the problem solving and critical thinking aspect of it. You have to think a lot about how to manipulate your body in a way that minimizes certain forces and maximize friction. It's like a physics based puzzle that also keeps you in shape. Massive nerd sport.

[Myemnhk]

If you fight gravity, sometimes you lose.

[WideBoyz]

Nice vid. Some nice alternative grip positions from normal slopers, crimps, pockets, etc are jams. Jamming is very safe for the fingers (aside from finger jams), and can be a good way to keep climbing whilst rehabing from a finger injury. Good luck with the recovery if it's still niggling 👍

[ZatClaire]

This video actually came out at a really fortunate time for me! I recently decided that I want to go rock climbing as soon as I have the funds to do so, so I'll be sure to keep this in mind!

[dannyCOTW]

When I started seriously climbing, a mentor told me that an open hand drag is always safer for you body than a "full" or "closed" crimp. And if you are going to crimp then only use it during static moves to avoid shock loads that might hurt you before you can let the pressure off

[holdenscdaddys]

Shame about the pain, but yet another great video mate.

[jeremyh]

My only climbing injury I've had was a pulley in my right ring finger. My fingers felt tired, and I was already thinking I should call it quits for the day, but I decided to have another couple goes at my boulder project. Heard a pop in my hand as my feet came loose, and immediately just let go. Not out of pain or anything. Honestly it didn't hurt right away. I just knew my hand wasn't supposed to make that noise... LOL
I couldn't close that finger more than half way for months, and it hurt really bad if I tried. It was probably 4 months before I could really climb on it again.

[custardpanda]

As a climber and engineer, I thought the first few times I saw this thumbnail that this was one of the climbing channels I’m subbed to.

Absolutely crazy that it’s Kyle! I never knew he was a climber. Awesome, and an incredibly educational video!

[HoopersBeta]

Thanks for helping people be more aware of their grip positions while climbing! Btw, our fingers actually have five pulleys (A1-A5) :)

[omnijack]

Definitely should hear this when getting taught about crimping in general.

[thesephiam]

My wife and I recently visited a rock climbing gym and was hoping to get more into the sport. Thank you for the tip.

[rickytrockclimbing]

As a professional rock climber, and professional nerd, being a long time fan of Kyles, my mind is still blown and trying to process this epic collision of my two worlds. I am a HUGE nerd when it comes to climbing, not just sci-fi, and it’s so sad to me that there isn’t a lot of good content out there for the biomechanics of rock climbing, but this video has made me so happy I could die happy now.

[rumbust]

It's my guess that slope style grip puts 1/35th of the strain on the A2 pulley. That would mean that crimping results in 3500% of the stress slope style does. The other way around would be that slope style puts about 2.86% of the stress crimping does.

[bingoable]

As a beginner rock-climber and a fan of your channel, I found this video very useful and fun! Wish you the best with recovery from your injury

[PowerhouseArmWrestling]

Hey Kyle, I don’t think I’ve seen anyone break down the science of Armwrestling to a degree that you could if you tried! It’s a lot more complex than the average person believes! Just a thought 💪 Awesome video

[JedLath]

The best way I ever had this kind of thing described to me is that the muscles will get stronger faster than the tendons, just because you have the strength to do something doesn't mean your body can take it.
This good advice coming from someone that didn't listen and is grounded after I popped something in my knee...

[DerFrange]

Great video! This is exactly why Dave MacLeod is such a big fan of the open handed grip even on the tiny "crimps". While for most of us it is, at least initially, not the strongest way to hold onto small edges, we can train it and Dave is able to climb about as strong using open hand as he is when crimping.

[erikpage]

BFR (blood flow restriction) therapy and H-taping helped me immensely in recovery. Great video!