How to Remove Paint From Your Scale Model Safely and FAST Stripwell Paint Remover ScaleModel Tips

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Are you a modeler?
Do you struggle stripping your models and model parts because most chemicals damage the plastic?

Is avoiding hazardous chemicals a priority for you?
Introducing
QCS Model Safe!
Finally! Now you can have one product on your bench that strips your models and model parts that is completely Non-hazardous and Eco-friendly and WILL NOT ruin the plastic!

QSC Model Safe strips...
Alcohol-based chrome paint!
Acrylic paint!
Lacquers!
Hobby enamels!
Krylon and Rustoleum!
2k Clears!
Chrome parts!
and much more!

QCS Model Safe quickly and safely removes all of the coatings on your models while being nearly 100% non-toxic, 100% non-flammable and 100% biodegradable. QCS Model Safe also contains no harmful carcinogens!

You will no longer need to expose yourself to oven cleaner, Purple Power, Mean Green, DOT brake fluid, bleach or any other caustic or toxic chemicals in your workshop or home! QCS Model Safe will save space on your workbench and keep you and your models extremely safe.

WARNING: QCS Model Safe can soften, weaken and even dissolve some glues and putties. Use caution when stripping parts containing these materials. Also, be cautious when using QCS Model Safe on very thin plastic parts. These can be fragile and potentially damaged by QCS Model Safe.
ORDER YOUR QCS MODEL SAFE TODAY!
IT WILL CHANGE HOW YOU
STRIP YOUR MODELS!

Paint stripper, or paint remover, is a chemical product designed to remove paint, finishes, and coatings while also cleaning the underlying surface.

Types of chemical paint remover
Chemical paint removers work only on certain types of finishes, and when multiple types of finishes may have been used on any particular surface, trial-and-error testing is typical to determine the best stripper for each application. Two basic categories of chemical paint removers are caustic and solvent.

Caustics
Caustic paint removers, typically sodium hydroxide (also known as lye or caustic soda), work by breaking down the chemical bonds of the paint, usually by hydrolysis of the chain bonds of the polymers forming the paint. Caustic removers must be neutralized or the new finish will fail prematurely. In addition, several side effects and health risks must be taken into account in using caustic paint removers. Such caustic aqueous solutions are typically used by antique dealers who aim to restore old furniture by stripping off worn varnishes, for example.

Solvents
Solvent paint strippers penetrate the layers of paint and break the bond between the paint and the object by swelling the paint.[1]

The active ingredient in the most effective paint strippers is dichloromethane, also called methylene chloride. Dichloromethane has serious health risks including death, [2] is likely a carcinogen,[3] and is banned in some countries for consumer use.[4] Despite this, deaths from dichloromethane are extremely rare at less than 2.4 cases per year[5] and associated mostly with users applying large amounts in confined, poorly ventilated spaces. When applied in reasonable amounts and with typical levels of ventilation, or outdoors, it is generally safe to use.

Solvent strippers may also have formulations with limonene from orange peel (or other terpene solvents), n-methylpyrrolidone, esters such as dibasic esters (often dimethyl esters of shorter dicarboxylic acids, sometimes aminated, for example, adipic acid or glutamic acid), aromatic hydrocarbons, dimethylformamide, and other solvents are known as well. The formula differs according to the type of paint and the character of the underlying surface. Nitromethane is another commonly used solvent. Dimethyl sulfoxide is a less toxic alternative solvent used in some formulations. Unfortunately, these alternative stripping formulas are largely ineffective compared to those based on dichloromethane - removing only one layer at a time, or often no paint at all. When they do work they take hours, compared to minutes or seconds for dichloromethane-based strippers.

The principle of paint strippers is penetration of the paint film by the molecules of the active ingredient, causing it to swell; this volume increase causes internal strains, which, together with the weakening of the layer's adhesion to the underlying surface, leads to separation of the layer of the paint from the substrate

[Formula]

I hate that you get so much hates comments but I do like when you give those people the business. “Shut up” had me cracking up!

[r.a.monigold]

Yea, talk is cheap. But seeing these results is IMPRESSIVE. Plus you saved me hours of painting, drying, soaking and scrubbing and rinsing FIVE different cars as a test. YOU did it for me (us, I meant, us). Thanks again for the impossible - an ENTERTAINING video on stripping paint!

[donaldwallace]

Thanks, I have just painted my first model. Prime, base coat ×3, then my clear. Looked great, what a beautiful paint job. However, it now has a hazy, dull look, just like it had been sanded. So gotta strip it. Edit this post, the haze cleared up and I have a great paint job. I left another comment about it.

[donaldwallace]

I just want to let you know that I have just started modeling again at the age of 65. I watched your video on how to paint a model and my first paint job turned out very nice. I would love to send you a picture but don't know how. Anyway, following your directions, I was able to turn out a paint job that I can't believe I did, and with rattle cans. I don't own an air brush. So THANK YOU sir, I enjoy your channel.

[jamiesale]

Just used QCS after the other stuff and this is the best - short time, almost no smell, and it works. Thanks again, Mr. HPI Guys.

[SpeedKing]

Great review Chris, glad there is finally a product for builders that actually works and is safe to use as well. My go to has been Super Clean and when I need "More Power" I have used oven cleaner. I will definitely be trying to get that product up here in Canada. Thanks!

[bryanm]

Your "shut up" comment earned you a sub. Laughed out loud! Sometimes the truth hurts some soft feelings :)

[rickr]

BEST PAINT STRIPPER EVER! Even melts Tamiya finish, which I’ve always had issues with. Thank you!

[jimseale]

Great review! a just ordered a bottle, and it works really well. only thing, it makes the plastic a little sticky. I"d recommend making sure the parts are not touching each other when you soak them, and when they are drying. it even softens glue, I was a little worried that the parts would be messed up because of the stickiness, but after they dried for a day, they were fine. Paint came off very easy on a model I hand painted a long time ago!

[michaelcooke]

Awesome review of a great product. I’ve seen this tested three times now, and each test has reviled the exact same result. I definitely have to buy some of that stuff. Thanks for sharing.

[davidhinkson]

This video is completely different! For many years I used pure Pine Sol disinfectant, and while it was effective in removing the paint, in a couple of instances the plastic looked a bit rubbery in places, and with the Lindberg 1961 Chevy Impala, the body twisted like a pretzel! Oven cleaner gave me mixed results, so it's good to see what is out there now.

[lynncaudle]

I'm going to start using that phrase "calm down Phil". I bet he turned 3 shades of red we've never seen before. 😂😂😂

[ramboparsons]

Hey Chris, Tom here, your Canadian friend..eh!... new to your channel, long time watcher..🤪 since no 2023.
Thanks for this video that I've just discovered!..lol...
I screwed up my ain't work on my 1978 Ford courier model, I just removed the paint, safety, and now going to repaint it again!..

Thank You for your 100% helpful tip!

[vacustoms]

That is awesome... I'm tired of simple green... last bath I gave a model body it took two weeks to be able to remove all the paint... then there's the risk of destroying detail...

[PontiacBanker]

Thanks for doing this review. I have always used brake fluid, but no doubt that it is caustic and needs special handling. I may have to try this stuff.

[epgrandpa]

Hey! I had a wildly different experience! First, the consistency was much more like brake fluid than alcohol. Also, as you did in this video, I check the part after 2 hours, started scrubbing with the exact same kind of brush wearing nitrile gloves and with 2-3 min the fingers in my gloves started to dissolve!!! This is when I felt the stuff with bare skin (not much choice at the time) and it felt very oily, as I mentioned, more like brake fluid than IPA. I switched to latex kitchen gloves and finished the task at hand. I then poured the contents through a paint strainer cone lined funnel into a clean 1 gallon plastic jug.

The second time I tried it was with an old Monogram Packard kit; the left front fender came off and the floor pan was wrinkled. By this time Stripwell had sent out its cautionary email regarding some complaints by users of the product ruining some plastics. I figured my Packard was one of those that was incompatible. So again, I strained the product and returned it to the previous container.

The third time I used it was in Revells 1957 Chevy snap tite kit primered with Mr. Surfacer 1500, painted with nail polish and coated with Gravity-Colors single stage clear (this is a combination I have used many times without issue; the reason I needed to strip it was I dropped the model on its freshly -and perfectly- coated clear). When I pulled the body out after 2 hours the clear/paint/primer had dissolved but I could not get the goo off the body regardless of what I tried. The stripper seemed to have combined with whatever had been in it to create a substance very much like Elmers glue.

I sent all this info to the company and even offered to send the body and the remnants of the product back for analysis, but have heard back nothing so far. I even suggested that perhaps there was a labeling mishap and I received the wrong product. However, I read on Scale Models online forum the Stripwell’s wood stripping and the Model Safe products are the same thing, just labeled differently.

At $37.00 a quart, it seems that only being able to use is twice is a bit expensive. I was wondering if anyone else has updates on their experience? I really wish it would have worked for me as it did in the video. I’m still convinced that what I got in my order is not the same as what is seen here. In this video, the viscosity looks much thinner than what I received.

Something is not right and before I order another bottle of this stuff to test my theory, I’d like to hear what others have to say.

Thoughts?

[ErnestoCarrasco]

I watched from start to finish, but never saw the discount code. That's okay; I ordered the product anyway. Thanks for the demo!

[Dartman]

That's very impressive! Especially with the Tamiya paint which I've heard is the toughest paint known to man.
Thanks for doing this test, Chris!

[sericono]

This is so useful. I just screwed up my Revell chevy 57 by using and old spray can sitting for a couple of years. I will go with my airbrush once fixed the mess. Thanks for sharing. Keep doing the good job.

[gregbryan]

Another good video Chris with the only thing I can think of you having done different is leaving at least one body in overnight so we could see how the plastic faired during long immersion on the solution. I must mention it's been my experience that it's harder to strip AMT chrome then Revell. Though I also use bleach and not the strippers you listed for chrome.