How to - Replace Trailer Wheel Bearings // Supercheap Auto

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[Steve-XTC]

Concise and straight to the point, no Hollywood openings or 10 mins of bumping gums, this is how videos should present 10/10

[thomaseichstaedt]

Finally a YouTube video that’s direct and to the point. No wasting time.
Thank you!

[lloydhohman]

I have replaced thousands and thousands of bearings and admittedly use an arbor press and specially lathe turned pushers and seaters to easily and accurately remove and install bearing components. However, the item to be repaired it is not always close to a arbor press or having any installation and removal tools handy.
There are six areas of caution that are not mentioned in this video, that I would like to add and I will do my best to describe them without the benefit of a video.
1. One must take care when driving out the outer races (cups) from the hubs. When installed, the cups must sit squarely in the bore they are placed in and the back of the cup must fit snugly against the entire surface in the back. What I often see is that people use screwdrivers, punches or other hard tools to drive out the cups from the bore. Doing so, people often put the edge of the tool in the space where the steel of the hub meets the back of the hardened race. When they hit this with a hammer, it distorts and expands the softer metal in the hub. Thus, when the new cup is placed in the bore, the flat backside hits that raised portion when it tries to seat and no-longer sits square in the bore. This causes problems because the inner race cones are sitting square on the shaft but do not set square with the hub cup and causes premature wear. In addition, this puts the inner and outer cups out of square to each other. I would recommend using an aluminum. brass, or copper drift to knock out the outer race. Being careful not to hit the hub steel whenever possible and to be driving vertically. If one accidentally causes the metal to distort where the seat is, take a small abrasive stone and remove the high spot. It’s pretty easy to tell where the highest point is, as it will turn out shiny when the stone is passed over it and another way to do it is to use a black felt marker pen and cover the area and then rub it with the flat of the stone to make sure that all the surfaces are the same shade of black and thus the same height.
2. Continuation on driving out the cups, I often see that there are score marks on the side of the hub bore from the punches, screwdrivers and other hard tools as they are used to continue driving cup out of the bore. This again causes distortions when the new cup is placed inside the bore. When the outer diameter of the new cup hits the scored marks, it pushes it inward a bit and causes the bore to no-longer be round. This again causes shortened bearing life. Again, use a abrasive stone (round one) to check for any high spots that must be removed in the bore in order to have a good bearing life.
3. Replace the cups using a soft metal. Using punches, screwdrivers and other hard tips tools can actually distort the metal in the cup and cause it to have a high spot or spots that will cause problems. Again use a softer metal.
4. When installing seals, I like to use a Block of wood, as it is soft and covers a large area. This helps to eliminate concentrated force like a steel hammer produces. Evenly go around the seal to slowly and evenly seat the seal, in most cases until the face of the seal is even with the hub face. In some circumstances the back side of the seal needs to rest at the bottom of the bore where the seat is.
5. I would add that you also want to check the spindle to make sure that is not worn, I have often seen spindles that have five, ten or more thousandths of an inch worth of wear on them and the inner race fits quite loose and will not produce a good repair. A loose fit between a spindle and the cone bearing bore in often allow the inner race to spin spin on the spindle and accelerate this wear causing problems. If so where is severe. It’s probably best to replace a spindle to be safe.
6. I always make sure there’s some grease around the inner backside of the seal (inside the seals Metal housing) to ensure that the seal has lubrication. Also, put some lubrication on the shaft and seal when installing to make sure that the seal does not start out dry, possibly causing the rubber to be torn away or quickly eroded, causing future leaks.

[stevelong]

By far the MOST helpful video on trailer hubs to bearings on spindles I have ever seen. Bravo. job well done.

[JamesBond-srfw]

Good video, to the point, 3 minutes long, everything that’s important is there. Thank You sir 😌

[joeg]

Timely and informative. My trailer is currently sitting roadside with vaporized bearings on one axle. This will help in getting her rolling again. Thank you!

[wdilks]

What a disclaimer! My first new car had instructions to change the head gasket. Now the instructions tell you, "Don't drink the battery acid".

[iggykoopa]

Refreshing to see an informative and very quality video in such a short and straight to the point format! Thank you

[chrashjunkmail]

The only video to show the actual order of placing the bearings. Thank you!

[thomasbroking]

Looks like you like having everything prepared before you grab the tools. I appreciate the prep work

[oceanrambo]

No pointless lead up just straight to the point, I have to do this job now on my boat trailer and found the right video to save my time cheers supercheap

[jannarta]

This is a fine illustrative director. two points :- Shimming up with steel washer or grind down the back of the nut a shim in order to get a snug fit without generating heat. Also what happened to the grease nipple . This can be tapped into the hub and threaded so that a snug fit is made. Do not forget to drill a bleed hole 1/8" in the middle of the outer Cap so you can verify the bearings are always not overpacked as heat can blow the rear Carbon/Rubber seal. Check every 150 miles.

[AussieFords]

I usually use a timber block to tap in the bearing buddies, much better than a cap. Other options are to replace the entire hub with a new one that has already been packed with grease and ready to be installed.

[krazy]

I use a piece of 1x4 wood to seat the grease seal
One smack and seats perfectly everytime.

[nrdn]

The roller bearings ride on the bearing cups ( Races ).  They should be replaced, NOT sanded or filed.

[thetrailershopbricon]

How about replacing the outer cups, this method only replaces half of the bearing. It won't last doing this method.

[chichi]

great video, thanks, you didn't loose any time talking, you went right to explained the parts. I guest is up to us to decide when to replace parts.

[romanstar]

right to the important points in as quick of a vid as possible = its the best way to help people . thanx!

[bernardpicton]

No mention of replacing the inner race of the bearing?

[outdoors-gstd]

thanks!!! i just replaced all new and bearing spit out after 6 months or less? i bought 2 and didnt due other side yet so new parts already here. but i noticed and why i watched i put seal in backwards in a hurry i guess? live and learn i hope! lol