Do you NEED a lanyard for sport climbing?

[johntatman]

I think knowing different options and their possible failure points is the best option. You just never know when something goes awry and your "normal" method is not available or won't work in some unforseen case.

[MrFFFF]

I love my petzl connect, it's one of the few bits of kit that stays on my harness whether I am doing sport or trad.

[ryenschimerman]

I've fallen in love with a double length sling, attached through the tie-in points, bound about 2/3 with a snap bowline, leaving another 1/3 above for longer points. When I climb I attach a locker through the longer thread and clove it to fit as necessary. Then I still have the bowline loop for rapping.

No matter though, you should touch on having the lanyard ready just for extending the rappels.

[zacharylaschober]

I almost always simply use draws for the purposes of cleaning anymore, but one great aspect about a specific device threaded in the belay loop or hard points is this is attached firmly to you. I would never climb with a draw dangling off my belay loop, and the nearest miss I ever had was with using a draw as a personal.

Was in Red River Gorge with a group at the end of a day, everyone tired, three routes equipped next to each other on a thankfully not steep wall. Decided to climb the top rope
on the right rather than leading the middle with the light fading. Went to the top collecting draws on the way, and I do not recall the exact circumstances but think I had been taken off and was setting to rappel the middle line, and was shifting over to get the left most anchor before descending down. Had a little back and forth to reach gear and such. Attached a draw to the chains, and was not yet rigged to rappel and realized I had almost taken off a draw attached to my belay loop and only been on one attached to a gear loop. Was a moment from undoing the belay loop one because I was rushing and it was dark.

[cleanascent]

Love Petzl connect and although not the strict topic, it's so useful in many other scenarios.

[TonySpinach]

Wonderful vid as always jb, I personally use a purcell prusik with 4 wraps, looped together with a triple fishermans and girthed onto my tie in loops with some 5mm tech cord and i love the adjustability of it and how cheap and strong it is. I also tie an overhand knot under the prusik so that i can isolate the two loops so i can clip one of the loops to one bolt and the other loop to the other bolt at the anchor. Worth checking out! I also like how it isn't bulky on my harness. When I'm not using it I wrap it around my waist and clip it to my belt loop, and I dont even notice it's there on my harness!

[Mike-ozcv]

A sling and a small locking carabiner is great to have on sport climbs if the anchor chains only have a ring (and no carabiner or pig tail) and you have to thread your rope through to clean the route. IMHO a Petzl Connect is overkill and unnecessarily heavy. If you can’t get up a route you can even thread through a glue-in bolt to get all your quickdraws back.

[MiroslavHavela]

how about clipping a carabiner and attaching with your rope via a clove hitch?
Once you know a quick way to tie a clove hitch to that carabiner, it's like 3 moves instead of two (for quick draw or petzl connect).... split second more, but less gear you need to carry and dangle around -- and you get the dynamic rope and adjustability of Petzl connect

[kevedwards]

Always 2 opposing draws for me but I always weight my freshly made not at the anchor before un clipping everything and I am pretty over the top with triple+ checking everything while at the anchor. I have thought about that lanyard but I’ve got a weird phobia about having things girth hitched on my belay loop after seeing someone’s loop almost worn through where they constantly had a sling attached. I also don’t like the idea of threading a loop through the anchor and using an overhand and locking Biner on my loop before untying my original knot as I always think swinging around collecting quickdraws on the way down while only being connected to my belay loop is dodge. Totally unjustified of course, just read an article about someone’s belay loop snapping one time it kinda stuck.

[Friendfox]

A locking QuickDraw is another option for solving the unclipping danger.

Personally usually use the connect adjust, but where I am there aren't many true sport routes

[Meutube]

I have used both Slyde and Connect, your comments are spot on. It’s strange that Petzl don’t do a kn value, at least I can’t find it on their website.

[edwards]

Thanks for another great video! Would you please tell us where that photo on the thumbnail was taken?

[TheBuffalo-Bison]

What about redundancy when you’re cleaning? Most of the climbs I’m on don’t have the ring attaching the two anchors. I got the petzl lanyard with two carabiners but it’s so big and cumbersome I don’t want to use it as much, but without the two attachment points I’m only on one anchor. Thank you for the videos I’ve learned a lot.

[thechippedtoothsurfercts]

Another great vid as always. Your demo board has the anchors linked, but most the routes I climb have two separate bolts each with a single ring. I use a sling to one anchor, the connect to the other. Gently load the sling, then balance with connect.

If your anchors weren’t linked would you do the same, similar or do you have a better option.

[TheWhatnever]

Any thoughts on a non adjustable Rope Lanyard (eg. Scaffold knot for carabiner, and Figure 8 for harness) with a Prusik attached to the rope loop of the 8 with a carabiner, for shortening the lanyard? Seems like a cheap option with less dangly bits than a purcell prusik, that I have never seen beeing used.

[Candesce]

In regards to the sling PAS with knots in it, I learned the hard way that yes, you CAN f#ck that up. If you aren't paying attention or are sloppy when tying the overhand knot into it, you can have a "false overhand" that will unravel itself when weighted. My life flash before my eyes as I realised that the knot was rolling to the end of the sling as I leaned back over the edge. I had one moment to realise what was happening, and pray that the biner stayed clipped into the sling, knowing that I was going to fall backwards off a cliff if it didn't... and then it did. I bought a Petzl Connect the day after.

[michaelstronach]

Could someone please explain to me why you would tie it in to the belay loop rather than the tie in points? In my head if you’re in the belay loop and the belay loop was to fail (however unlikely) then you’re falling off a crag… but in the tie in points there are now two separate points that need to fail before you fall. Surely it is safer in regards to redundancy to tie your PAS through 2 tie in points than just 1 belay loop (single point of failure vs double)
Thanks

[PieterLambrechts]

Hi JB, nice video as always! Quick question: why would you have a close call when using a quickdraw? I'm from Belgium and we learn never to tie out without a backup. So usually I'll just feed a bight of the rope through the maillon/abseil ring, tie a figure of eight on the bight and use a locking carabiner to connect this to my belay loop. Then I would remove my original tie-in knot from my harness. So even if I unclip the quickdraw I'm hanging from, I'm always connected to the rope so I'd just fall on my last quickdraw. And when sport climbing, that's not the worst that can happen, is it?

So could you clarify in what scenario you could fall to the ground using the quickdraw when cleaning a sport climbing anchor? Or is it common practice in the UK to tie out without creating a backup knot beforehand?

[JoachimMilan]

No, but it is nice. I use a slyde in reverse, where a short sling is girth hitched to both slyde and belay loop. Then I have a long 2m rope going through the slyde with a locker at one end, attached with a barrel knot. Allows me to adjust my PAS without reaching the anchor. Handy for larger ledges - but definitely not necessary. Will probably just carry a locker draw for the most part and use a clove otherwise.

[shatter]

Thoughts on a purcell prusik for the task?