My FIRST TIME using a TRACK SAW!!!

I knew track saws were good but I didn't know how good!!!!
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[ds]

I have an older Festool track saw (corded). My version has 2 splinter guards. One is the long white plastic on the track--what you initially cut away when you added the second track. But the other splinter guard is on the saw itself (at least on my version). It is a piece of plastic insert on the front right side of the saw that you raise and lower. What you do is lower that splinter guard insert on the saw to the top face of the wood. The first time you use it the saw will cut it to the right length. I've used the same saw for about 9 years and have not had any issues. I use the saw for fine cuts and do NOT sand the edge (otherwise you round over the nice cut the saw just made). One thing I use the Festool track saw for is to rough cut all my pieces for a project then do the final dimensioning at the table saw. But yes, when I first got the Festool track saw I was also blown away. It's a Plunge saw which means you can set it flush to the floor. It ALSO does 45° cuts (for example) without needing to fuss around with where to lay the track to the line. But as for splintering, you should try to lower the splinter guard of the saw itself. But you'll need to label the guard you "cut" because once you cut 1/2" material it won't work well for 3/4" material, if that makes sense. The splinter guard is lower to the face of the wood and sometimes you cut enough off that it won't touch the face anymore.

[hi]

What's more expensive, the plywood or the Festool?

[thatf_inguy]

I love my makita track saw, TSO square and parallel guide. Built all of my kitchen and laundry cabinet boxes with it. One tip on joining tracks (with the makita connectors): I tried multiple different ways to join them and screwed up a ton of long cuts in the process but I found a way that works perfect every time. Take a 4ft aluminum level and put in on your bench, bottom facing up. Make sure the set screws are fully tightened to one of the tracks. Join the tracks and get the joint dead center on top of the level with the rubber cut strip facing up. Pull/push down on both rails at the center of the level. While you have weight on both, tighten down the remaining set screws. Yes, they will dent the aluminum, no its not a big deal.

I have not used the TSO connectors but the makita connectors will not self-align.

[itachix]

Vancouver carpenter doing carpentry who knew...

[jackt]

Perfect! The other videos were comparing them. I'm not that far down the road. I'm in the discovery stage of how they are used. I didn't know there was such a thing until I talked to my cousin who is a builder turned trimmer who when he analyzed things, trimming out was the part he loves, so he decided he'd rather sub for that and has been kept as busy as a cat on a tin roof and says the only thing he does is new. When I started asking him questions about a remodel project and talking saws, I mentioned a good miter saw and table saw might be what I need. He said, any miter saw will work, it's just learning how to use to get your cuts right and told me how to use scraps and shim to get the angle right and joints tight. However, he said what I would be a lot happier with is a good track saw without going crazy, and mentioned the Makita. He said track saws are portable, don't take up much room when you store them, and handier, especially when you are doing a cross-cut on a door or piece of plywood. I see nothing but positive reviews for the Festool cordless but not the corded models. Since this isn't my day job, I won't be buying the vacuum, but that clamping system is a must.

[sw]

Ben, Ben, Ben, flonting your wealth by using 2x4's as sacrificial planks. I remember when I use to be able to afford 2x4's

[davidruss]

I like your videos and have learned a lot of good tips on drywall. I find that hose and cord management is the only annoying thing with the track saw. But that’s a small price to pay for the no dust and great cuts. One “tip” that has helped me manage the vac hose is instead of just grabbing the saws handle I reach under the hose then grab the handle so the hose somewhat rests on my forearm. I know that my description may not be great but when I do this the hose doesn’t immediately droop down and it helps with getting the cut started and you don’t need to immediately move the hose with your other hand to keep it from getting hung up. Hope this makes sense. Again I appreciate the videos.

[homerx]

You need to lift the far end of the track, then push the square against the edge and lower the track down from the square to the far end.
If you put it down before squaring it, the grips make it hard to get it square.

[HBSuccess]

Ben FWIW we build a lot of cabinets…lots of plywood to break down. You can’t count on factory edges being square, parallel, or even straight. Last year we had a whole unit of maple veneer 3/4 ply where the long edges had an 1/8” bow…out on one edge in on the other like a very slight “C” shape!! Didn’t matter BC we always true up one edge w a track saw before breaking it down, but still… This was expensive domestic plywood too.

[jamesb]

Just got my first track saw… a Makita refurb and I bought PowerTec tracks. Super affordable (as far as track saws go) setup. Absolutely love it! Can’t believe I went this long without one!

[dcharnas]

Ben, The small amount of tear out on the waste side of the wood is because the green anti-splinter guard was not attached to the track saw. ( It is a little green square piece that slips into the slot near the leading edge of the blade.)

[frankpinmtl]

Ben scoring all kinds of tools. You must be living right...
Still not reading instructions, huh?

[zachmathew]

Glad you're liking it and happy you got it for free as it's an expensive saw!

Two thing you need to try:
1. Bluetooth sync to the dust extractor so you don't need to manually turn it on/off

2. Portable dust bag attachment - it is surprisingly great at dust collection and handy when you don't want to bring the dust extractor along.

[wrobelmike]

Track saws are amazing. It's like having a panel saw on the jobsite. I've been using the Makita version for a few years on kitchen installs and it's irreplaceable.

You don't need to clamp down the track as long as you push the saw straight forward and you don't go too fast. You have to let the saw do the work.

I have a square attachment but I only use it with the 55" track. You want to measure for long cuts because the square attachment isn't very accurate for those - too much deflection in the track itself. Once you get used to it it's fast and accurate. A sharp blade is a must... and make sure you don't install it backwards, it doesn't cut too well 🤣 - don't ask me how I know!

[edover]

So happy to see you sponsored Ben! Applauding you and how you’re thriving!

[woodmasterguy]

Holy sh*t, Vancover Sheetrock guy doing some carpetry, hehe. Anyways the 108" rail is best for ripping full sheets, two 55" rails together can be a problem with alignment especially what blade you used to cut the splinter guard with. Careful with those screws on the connectors, you will dig into that rail channel big time. I now own both the 55 and 75 corded, both saws are great...

[olgajoachimosmundsen]

It's important to use a long straight edge when combining the rails. I've tried a couple different corded ones from Festool and they are beautiful! I've also tried the 18Vx1, which is not that great

[geoffstein]

Good to see a good honest review by someone who obviously hasn't used one before 👍 good work

[paulnork]

Amazing tool if you make your own cabinets, do decks, doors or just little bit of everything

[stephenholland]

Fun to watch to pro being the happy kid with a new tool! Breaking down plywood and handling the smaller pieces is the way to go. I have some pieces of 1/2 inch OSB that are notched so I can throw together a support structure ( 2 pieces @ 8 feet, and foot 4 pieces @ 4 feet ) to make the pieces interlock standing on edge. It’s a nice complement to a jig like this.