Traditional FOUGÈRE accords in PERFUMERY

Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
01:13 - History fougère perfumes
06:27 - Basic structure of a fougère
10:57 - Developing the accord
24:28 - Final formula

Videos I made on the raw materials in the fougère accord:

Instagram accounts:

[dhperfumes]

This is a great video, Sam. What I appreciate is that you show your failures in testing as well as your successes. It really gives the true sense of what it's like to be composing where you can spend a whole day going down the wrong path and needing to hit the reset button on all that time. What I also enjoy is your methodical approach. It's great to see the injection of logic into the creative process.

[FragabyPerfume]

Hey Sam! Thanks for all your advice and instructive videos on perfumery. They are really helpful. I was trying different formulas and using the Grojsman accord, and will also try the Fougere accord. Greetings from California!

[nams]

The part when you describe the result of the trial blend so informative . I hope in future make this kind of topic mix some oils acord ( essential) and describe it . thank you

[madhulikarcchabi]

excellent video Sam. Especially your approach towards multiple experiments.

[daniellabuda]

I am about to start working on my first perfume. I decided to focus on rose theme, I want to create a rose perfume that is quite functional and versatile, that could be worn by both man and woman. I struggle with it, because I want to create a balanced perfume, fresh and light, maybe also slightly green. I want to avoid receiving a formulation, that would smell overly feminine.

So you can discuss the rose accord in details, Sam. Fantastic series, as always. Cheers.

[curioclassicperfumeguide]

Another excellent video. Looking forward to seeing more! Congratulations ...Keep up the great work !

[nams]

I split the screen and i open the note app to follow you sir . Thank you so mush

[sidanx]

I think the accord was to be the olfactory reflection of freshness, color etc in the representation the fern not the literal smell of it - see Roga Dove remarks on the accord - it is my favorite especially in the 90s Abercrombie releases before Fierce - very nostalgic to me it hold the top spot for my love of fragrance- loving your videos and learning with you

[JT-rxeo]

As a lover of fougeres (as a wearer, not a perfumer), I had developed the opinion that they could be separated into a "classic" fougere and a "barbershop" fougere. Where the barbershop fougere had a bit of the classic's earthy accords replaced by soapy or powdery accords. I deveoped that perception after having tried so many fougeres. Don't know how right or wrong that is, but that's my sense of it.

[MrDigitalWorks]

For me the soapyness in this kind of formulas comes from the mix of Lavender and Geranium (missing here). Have to try your formula, thanks for sharing!

[TheSimuzz]

Very interesting video; I actually like how you walk us through your multiple iteration of an accord. Just wondering why you went the flowery route instead of going more green when you cut down the coumarin and oakmoss. Would have been curious to see how it would have gone with more green/leafy material: basil, sage, cis 3 hexanol, etc.

[hichouification]

thank you for talking about the history. very insightful

[andyrnb]

I recently got some lavender absolute from harry and have found that I prefer using this, with some dihydromyrcenol, to the EO. I find the terpy elements of the EO clash with other materials.
Kephalis is another material that works well, filling in the herbal notes of both the lavender and oakmoss, and helping with the tobacco aspect of the latter.

[mohammedmiah]

I replaced amyl salicylate with wintergreen EO. And I found it to work really well, this is what I came up with:

Lavender 14
Bergamot 8
Coumarone 12
Bulgarian Rose 5
Jasmine 4
Patchouli 2
Vetiver 10
Geranium 2
Wintergreen 3
Oakmoss 6

[peewee]

Thanks for the video! Have you thought about using Lavender Absolute instead? I was experimenting with a Fougère/Chypre hybrid accord recently but I thought the Lavender was quite sharp and soapy (mind you: I don't have a lot of experience and maybe the two Lavender oils that I own are of lower quality). So I ordered some Lavender Abs, got it yesterday and smelling it out of the bottle it's a lot nicer than oil!

No sharpness at all and still *very much* Lavender. I have to do some smelling on the strips yet but I think this will be my go to Lavender (maybe mixed with L. oils and/or some Lavandin oil). A (potential) bonus of the absolute is that it's also a middle and base note.

[δαιμόνιον]

This is currently quite useful in my case, as I am making a fougere perfume but in a more oriental style

[HiltonBoenosAires]

4:31 what is the name of the perfume you mentioned?

[hichouification]

Add one drop of water in each accord, water stretch the molecules. It is a natural fixative and push the oils out (silage). Water is magic, bonus point if you use zamzam water

[JayMannStuff]

Very nice video, Sam. Just curious: could you please make a video for the other fragrance families, like Chypre or Blue?

[drgnzadiel]

Nice video! Question, if, for example, an accord had 1 part orange, 1 part lavender, and 1 part nutmeg, would 3 drops of that accord equal 3 drops of orange, 3 drops of lavender, and 3 drops of nutmeg?