12 Reasons to NOT BUY/AVOID a Myford ML7 Lathe

A #Myford #ML7 #lathe has been the backbone of british #modelengineering for decades, but there are some things you MUST know before taking the plunge.

The Maid of Kent 5" #Steam #Loco build is still running, just waiting for some materials and have two episodes half filmed already! Take care!

[ianlangley]

I am a qualified fitter and turner from the marine industry and have worked on many lathes. There will always be down falls on what ever lathe you work on or own. I have a SL7 and find the the quality very good. It was built in 1952 and still going strong. You need to understand also how morse tapers work and some body else has already taken you to task over this. The beds of these are cast iron as cast iron has good self lubricating qualities. Cast iron is also very stable and will not twist or distort easily. Ian - New Zealand

[stevec]

Just a couple of points. The ML7 is 20 inches between centres, not 14. The tang on morse tapers is purely to eject them from sockets using a wedge, If the drive is being taken by the tang there is something wrong with either the taper or socket.

[BillDavies-ejye]

Good video, William. For info, the tang of the Morse taper is to eject it. The taper is a shallow angle so that it 'wedges' in the socket. This provides the friction to resist the torque of a drill or other tool. There would be no need for a taper if the tang provided the drive. It requires clean tapers without damage to work properly.

[georgeclements]

Good analysis William. I am lucky enough to have a Super 7 lathe which has a simpler backgear arrangement. Other points to consider are that most of us don't do screwcutting all that often, so the hassle of changewheels isn't too bad even if, like me, you don't have a gearbox. Likewise, long taper turning isn't needed all that often and can be achieved by setting over the tailstock if you really have to: short tapers aren't a problem with a topslide. Unscrewing of the chuck or faceplates when running in reverse can often be overcome by using a drawbar arrangement provided that you don't need to pass the workpiece through the spindle.All in all, I'm very happy with my Myford: there are times when I would like a larger lathe and times when I prefer to use my Unimat 3, but there is a practical limit to the tools one can have and there is a lot to be said for learning to use what you do have and becoming familiar and comfortable with that. You can often get better results that way. My lathe doesn't have hardened bedways, but I keep it clean and well lubricated and will leave it to my grandchildren or great-grandchildren to worry about excessive wear given that the lathe is a hobby machine for me and not receiving heavy continuous use. Best wishes.

[azmoz]

Myford is made from English cast iron ( albeit soft ), not milk bottle tops Chinesium . Harkens back to a time when we used to make stuff, rather than just answer phones in call centres
It comes in an amazing grey colour ( plus green and aqua for the 7’s and hammerite for the 10’s).

[martijnveen]

good analysis! and explanation of the "faults" and strong points. I was lucky enough to be able to rescue a ml7 from rusting away in a garage as it was given to be because of the interest i had in the machine and the owner not having the time wo fix her up and use it. so i got really lucky there :) one little thing to add as a perhaps some what of a down side is its relative low top spindle rpm of 640rpm

[AdeSwash]

Yes, the Myford ML7 does have some foibles, but for me it is a beautiful machine, it is well designed, and it's character isn't seen on modern machines, You do learn to 'understand' your particular lathe and know its strengths and weaknesses, it does become part of you, and you respect its character. I do hope that you fall in love with your machine, it sounds weird, but it happens! All the best. Ade

[szaborubin]

Great video. I wholeheartedly agree with the drawbacks you mentioned, along with the positives. My TOS MN80 suffers from much the same issues you brought up here, but it being an obscure machine with a relatively small but dedicated fanbase, most issues are solved by engineering new solutions. The leadscrew changewheel system is a prime example, it is now en vogue to mount ELS systems to these machines, and you may consider it yourself if you get fed up with it. It can be done without permanent modifications to the base machine if that is an issue. As for the headstock bearings, they arent too challenging a part to make, so id suggest you make a pair while yours are still good, itll save a lot of heartache and dosh, ask me how i know😑

[GardenTractorBoy]

This was a very interesting video, thanks. When we went shopping for a lathe we started looking for a Myford ML7 but I am very pleased we ended up with a Colchester Master even if the headstock is noisy on these machines. It is the perfect size for our projects and we got it because we could not find a Myford at the time

[spacecraftbuildingservices]

Thanks fir this. It is most helpful. I'm just selling my Portass S which I purchased with inadequate knowledge and has not been all it could have been. I've been inclined away from myfords for many of the reasons you give especially price but your observations and experience are valuable in informing my decision on what is to replace it. Thanks jim

[stevewilliams]

A very good appraisal of the Venerable Myford.
I gree with all you said and play on 2 Colchesters myself in my retirement PlayPen.😊
However I have to raise a point that Mr. Pete has flogged to death recently by quoting (or paraphrasing to be accurate) from the official Dormer drill data and specification documents.

The tang on a Morse Taper drill is for ejecting the drill and NOT for driving.

It requires very good housekeeping to ensure that the tapers, internal and external are kept clean otherwise they start slipping.

As evidenced by the number of gauled, scored and grooved drill tapers and spindle bores found in many workshops.

The twisted off tangs that you will find is also evidence that the tang is not designed or intended to transmit drive.

A classic case of "just because it can .. doesn't mean it should".

[keithammleter]

Having used a Myford 7 in high school metalwork class and then a Sheraton at work, American lathes at university, then in the last few years a Chinese lathe for hobby use, I've always considered the Myford horribly expensive junk. So it is refreshing to see an English person try honestly to be objective about it, though William's comment about tangs on morse taper tooling is incorrect.
Morse tapers are designed to grip on the taper, and they work just fine for centering and drilling as the load is axial. Morse taper chucks should not be used in milling machines where there are side loads of course.
Myford 7's were ok in high schools where they never got much use and therefore not much wear, but are capable of doing everything a metalwork school teacher wants to teach - lathe safety, basic cylinder and face turning, thread cutting, and taper turning, selecting the correct speed, how to correctly grind a tool bit and the consequences of getting speed and tool geometry wrong.
So many English guys say they would never consider an Asian lathe because "Myford is best" - seems to a form of "'But It's British" silly thinking.
It's kind of like preferring to buy a 1950 Morris Minor (albeit in good condition) at a BMW price when you can have an up to date Toyota Corrolla for a fraction of the price. You cannot be thinking if you buy a Myford.
The fact is, with Asian lathes you get as big a lathe for a fraction of the price, greater rigidity, proper V-ways, and a nice safe cam-lock or longitudinally bolted chuck mounting, which means you can have an emergency brake, as well as run backwards.
Don't overlook the value of a large spindle bore. It will save you a lot of money in materials over time, as not having to remove the job and turn it around until you finally part off will mean a lot less wastage of material, less wastage of time, and greater accuracy. It is a lot less frustrating if you need to make several identical things. I have found that a 35 mm spindle bore covers most hobby jobs.

[andrewclarkehomeimprovement]

I upgraded from an ML1 to a 7 and I love it. It's got quirks but it's part of the experience. As a hobby user I'm not doing production, I don't need to save a minute engaging the back gear.
The oilers, yep, a pain.
Good video, thanks.

[magicbytes]

Hello William, I like your lathe, one can manufacture lots of parts on it, all the complaints you mentioned shouldn't have been raised, I own a Hercus 9-inch lathe with tapered roller bearings, I purchased it brand new in 1973 and I still have it as of august 2024. now a days one can buy third party accessories on eBay for hobby lathes at reasonable prices for example taper turning attachment that mounts in the tail stock, plus a ball turning attachment, there are many other attachments. As a note a good machinist never blames his tools.😃

[MrFactotum]

Well William, i thought you was on a real downer there, but looks like your happy after all. Its swings and roundabouts with different makes and models, at the end of the day you hit the nail on the head, many cracking model engineers have made outstanding models on these, also it's not the machine its the person using it, who gets the best out of any machine. You ought to see what i had to contend with when i was an apprentice!!!!, But my tutor's reponse to me was if you learn on these machines you will be able to use any machine, the ones i was on to start off were ex mod, making artillery etc.
Nice overview of the myford though, imperialistic old school is the best👍👍🚂🚂
see you next time
Kev

[andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Hi William. Thank you for the honest “review”. I am fortunate to have a Myford Super 7 which addresses some of the shortcomings of the ML7. Overall I am delighted to own and use an “old school” British built lathe which suits my needs and has capabilities beyond my abilities.
All the best. Andrew 👏👏👍😀

[steveallen]

It’s 10’ clearances with a faceplate or between centres. The most important is the ready supply of spares. Also very disappointed you didn’t mention the plethora of myford accessories. Just a free, quick release collet Chuck, travelling and static steadies, vertical and angled vertical slides, lever operated tailstock, extra long cross slide, rear cutting tool post, lever and wheel cut off slides, two different capstan turrets for bulk part machining( simple attaches to cross slide & full carriage replacement version complete with a selection of capstan tools. Circular saw table, and my favourite a fully self contained dividing head with interchangeable dividing plates- myford spindle compatible with chucks and collets and a between centeres bar- mountable in different configurations it can be used to drill hole circles, cut gears, mill flutes in columns and many other things. It’s my fav tool once I built an excel spreadsheet to do all the calculations for me. The ability to mount any myford Chuck allows you to machine parts directly on the lathe the transfer the Chuck with work for further operations. Steve

[bobuk]

Hi folks. I subscribed! Watch the end first! Then the beginning First this is a very old model. Apparently about 65 - huh, still younger than me though! Later ones are much better. (I was thinking of my son ....) Also more expensive Yup, I bought Chinese as I thought that a Myford was too expensive. Quality wise though there is no comparison. The pre-new release Myfords were essentially hand built and fitted - the conical main headstock bearing even being scraped in by hand for example. None of that taper roller bearing nonsense. There are a variety of built in adjustments for wear as well which are not mentioned here. They really are better called 'Instrument Lathes' and if you want to build say a horizon indicator for your Concorde they would be just the thing. There are a plethora of designs for upgrades available and usually there is a way around the constraints. Fabulous investment - I made a big mistake there.

[verybigkittens]

I have a myford m.l.10 now just finished setting it up. got a stand for it an original drip tray and the original raising blocks. The lathe was £570 and in good condition. All I have to do now is learn how to use it. Mainly got to re bush clock mainspring barrels, but should imagine now plenty more jobs regarding clock repair. I also have a watchmakers lathe, that is quite small. Thank you for the reply.

[cattaraugustonawanda]

I like some of the features of the ML7, especially the gap. The thing that I don't like is the box bed ways. Much prefer more modern prismatic ways as one sees on Boxford on your side of the pond or South Bend, Clausing, Logan, etc. here. When a box way starts to wear it is tough to adjust the gibs for fee movement but without rattle. A friend had a very pristine example but the bed was worn at the headstock end and to function properly it would require either scraping or grinding the ways to be parallel again. The ML7 has lots of mystique but not my cuppa.