1857 How To Make Super Strong 3D Printed Parts

[ifell]

CNC kitchen has done thousands of tests with different filaments for anyone who wants 'scientific' tests.

[brandonfranklin]

I've been 3d printing for a couple years now and yet this has never occurred to me. Brilliant idea! Thanks a million!

[garyhardman]

Thanks for that Robert, amazing result!
A couple of weeks ago, I 3D printed an adaptor for my workshop dust extraction system. Due to an oversight (cock up) on my part, I didn't add supports to the print, and the result was very thin area.
To remedy the fault, I used baking soda to fill the area and added superglue and it set rock hard!
I had heard of this trick elsewhere, but thought it may be useful to mention it, for those who may not know.

[ET_AYY_LMAO]

Interresting idea that I hadn't seen before. We need Stefan from CNCKitchen to do a comparison!
Also in regards to print strength, filament varies greatly in properties depending on polymer blend, additives, pigment etc.
To me it seems like neutral colored have the best strength, but can't really generalize I guess. All I know is that all the red parts of my wind turbine got obliterated two times in stormy weather, but the neutral segments in the same brand did not... Now its all neutral haven't exploded so far.

[paulbrouyere]

I love your degrees of strength: you can snap it like that, the force required is an awful lot more, till surprisingly strong with difficulty breaking. It was a joy to watch you demonstrate the differences!😅

[Alkimi]

speaking of grain - I highly recommend trying the wood PLA filament, it's not commonly known how awesome that stuff is. The wood fibers in it make it print much better and it makes the objects much more heat resistant, and of course it doesn't warp as much during printing. I printed a decoration to put on the dashboard of my car and regular PLA turned into a limp noodle the first hot day, but the wood PLA is able to handle the heat! (and I live in southern california)
Also, wood PLA can be sanded much like regular wood, it bonds really well to wood glue as well as acrylic paint. It's just fantastic all-around.
The only issue I ever have with it is an occasional clump of wood fiber will cause a jam in the hot-end and the print fails, but ABS and regular PLA fail just as often for their own reasons

[cymacymulacra]

Genius! The neutral fibers in the beam deflection example stay the same length - just as well with crummy plastic. The extreme fibers that are tensioned resist with super glue tensile strength - legend! Maybe flex the sample some to force the SG deeper for more durable adhesion under repeated flexion. Kind of a case-hardened composite polymer concept - and it DOES achieve that ever-elusive real increase in part strength. Good going, again, Robert!

[synchro-dentally]

Very cool. I wonder if anyone will design a printer that can include a "glue step" for each layer.

[Rowow]

check out reheating 3d printed parts in powdered salt. The part remelts into a solid while the salt holds it from warping. Then you simple take it out and rinse it off which the thin layer of salt on the surface gets dissolved away

[DKFX]

The people suggesting putting it in an oven aren't completely out to lunch. It is called annealing and is a very popular method of increasing certain properties in the plastic like impact resistance, temperature resistance and strength even. An oven is excessive because of the wasted volume and energy, a little annealing box is much preferable. You'd have to print the items at 100% infill and they need to be flat if you air-anneal them. You can also heat up very fine salt or sand and place the object inside a container of heated powder, this way you can anneal any object in a more controlled fashion which reduces warping significantly, still needs to be 100% infill for it to work but the parts will be much sturdier and temperature resistant. PLA can even withstand boiling temperatures after annealing which is amazing really.

[MrAnderson]

As always Robert you score well in these videos, thank you so much for producing them with such helpful information, truth be told I forgot about the super glue we actually used it quite a bit in our original first robotic challenge competitions, it was incredibly effective, I am sure many people will love to increase the strength of their PLA printings. Thank you so much yes it really does work fantastically!

[OceanBagel]

I've printed with ABS before, and one neat trick with that particular material is to expose the parts to acetone fumes, which softens the outside of the parts and makes a really smooth surface. I'd imagine the layers bond together as well under those conditions to increase the strength. I think you would need a different solvent for PLA, though, as I've heard acetone doesn't have the same effect on it.

[technosaurus]

Minimize infill and you have the negative for a lost PLA mold... makes a great use for scrap metal.
Sand and waterglass work for quick and dirty molds... just need a well ventilated space or do it outside.

[AdricM]

ive done some annealing of a print, by packing it in fine salt and heating the whole thing to just about the melt temp.. can go a long way towards a stronger part when its super important.

[OzAndyify]

The thin (laminating) epoxy works well too. Makes it possible to sand to a mirror finish and is very strong. You just need to soak for a while and wipe off any excess with paper towel well before the gel stage.

[montgomerylant]

When mixed together, super glue and baking soda's strength exceeds that of plain super glue. The enhanced strength and quick drying time make the blend of super glue and baking soda ideal for quick surface repairs in high-traffic areas. It is also perfect for filling gaps and cracks in surfaces and repairing broken objects such as furniture. The super glue and baking soda mix also bonds more readily with plastics than plain cyanoacrylate, making it especially useful for repairing cracked plastic materials and components.

[Karaon]

im on the process of building my cnc and what came to my head was printing with 3d infill shape with thin shell and pouring epoxy inside. it will hold the linear rods (40mm thick). seen someone do an experiment and it proved my approach but i didnt see much more of that

[tsha]

I stumbled across this by accident, but I needed this info right now. Perfect timing. I got a 3d printed model of the Halo Warthog that has over 100 different parts and some of each in need up to 20x pieces. Some pieces are small and too weak. This looks like my answer. Thank you. 👍🏻

[jameshughes]

Genius. I'm looking forward to trying this on my next print. Thanks for sharing.

[manleyjoedesjarlais]

This guy is a genius. Thank you for your content. I just went to subscribe to the channel but I already am. That just goes to show how handy this guy's content is.