How to insulate your garage rafters storage area the fast and easy way

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THIS IS FOR GARAGE AND STORAGE ATTICS ONLY!!!!
I live in a moisture free area and radiant barrier is used in many places that are not recommended in the rest of the world. Open attics and properly ventilated attics with low moisture content can have lower temps by using this product. I have no Moisture issues where I live. If you have moisture issues use common sense and benefit from these products as you can to prevent moisture issues.

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To anyone seeing this comment — YOU ALWAYS WANT A GAP BETWEEN INSULATION AND ROOF DECKING. Not leaving at least a 1 inch gap means you’re trapping heat (no airflow) and moisture (no wicking) INTO your roof decking. Garage, house, shed, the rules are the same. Leave a 1 inch gap minimum between insulation and roof decking from soffit to apex or you’ll regret it!

An easy way to do this is use small cuts of 1x2 boards as spacers. Then you can push the foam board against those spacers and you know you’ve got a 1.5” gap between the insulation and the roof decking. Do this all the way from soffit to ridge.

TheMaxAwesome

While this method will lower the temp in your garage, it will also cause your roof sheathing and shingles to deteriorate at a very high rate. It will trap moisture against your roof causing the roof sheathing to rot from underneath. Shingles will deteriorate about 30% faster than doing it correctly.
Similar effect will happens if you install paper faced, roll insulation with the paper against the wooden roof sheathing. Traps moisture which causes rot of your roof.
To do it correctly, leave a 1.5”-2” cavity in between the roof and insulation. This allows the wood to breathe and the moisture to not be trapped against the roof sheathing.
Hope this helps someone out in the future.

allbayfishing

was about to do the same in my tuffshed ceiling, because it gets HOT, but, reading the comments tells me-there is a better way?

stiksandstones

So it took literally half the video to get to the point where he actually insulates the space. After he mangles the cuts and leaves wide open gaping seams. Yeah. Not.

randywebb

Wow, there's a lot of professionals on this comment section.... If only there were as many "how to" videos.

namelessr

Is there any issues with screwing in the foam board almost like drywall? Just for full coverage .

mitchellvanlieshout

Hi, i have a question, i live in florida, i have a one car garage with a flat roof like the one on this video, no soffit, so no air coming in or out of the roof when close wit drywall . my plan is to install a mini split in the garage, Summer is to hot here, i know i have to insulate my garage door, now, how should i insulate this roof and what to use, my rafters are 16" x 2" and like 15 or 16" a part, left and right walls are block and stucco, anynof the two walls are exterior, left wall has my kitchen on the other side, and right wall meets my neighbors garage, the rafters goes right thru the blocks, so no wood against any of the walls. I want to do this my self, and im scared of moisture on the roof and floors.. I hope this info its enough for you to help me out, if you can, thanks in advance...

baloo

There is no R value in fan fold styrofoam, mainly used under membranes on the roof sheathing.

jasonkarner

People it’s a storage area. Calm down.

dblood

I'm no professional builder... but my cousin is... he's a developer/general contractor. I've worked with him on several builds when deadlines were impossible and he needed general laborers. Mike the painter seems like a good guy... a thinker, a problem solver. But I'm going to respectfully disagree. That roof sheathing is OSB. It's glue-pressed and porous. It will seriously delaminate and wick condensation with anything in contact with the surface between the rafters. It's designed to work with a vented roof. Air must move from the eves to the roof peak over the surfaces of it. The material Mike chose is good stuff. Reasonably affordable, built in vapor barrier, and a decent R-value for it's weight. A better option would be to fasten the foam boards to the garage-floor-facing surface of the rafters. This would preserve the air-space/air-movement and not sweat your roof sheathing to mold/warp oblivion.

todde

Why could u just put it on like drywall and staple it

billynoe

That's not how it's done. If you've gotten any benefit from that, it's most likely just because you've stopped some air leaks. Sealing air leaks and insulating are two different things, and you don't use foam board to stop air leaks. That's normally done with foam such as comes in pressurized cans, tape or caulk applied to specific places where air leaks. Then you insulate to create dead-air space so that heat cannot pass easily from inside of the structure to the outside, or visa versa, depending on whether you are trying to heat or cool. Also, I think it's questionable whether you want to apply foam board directly to the roof sheathing between rafters because of the way it affects airflow and, subsequently, your roof shingles. Otherwise, good video.

markjones

Wow, harsh comments here.

It's not the typical way I've seen this done. However, from a cost to benefit perspective, this is probably high value.
This is quick and dirty, and cheap. Probably see a 10+ F temperature difference just with the radiant barrier from it.

Consider the cost of material and labor. Great value! (Not that I would go this cheap for stuff)

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