Weld In Bung Saves Customer $$$ Thousands $$$

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This channel is about general automotive repair and maintenance . We cover a large variety of automotive services and repairs in a privately owned independent automotive repair shop, Ray's Auto Clinic, located in Bradenton Fl.
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”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!
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In my neck of the rusty woods, I found that heating the base of the sensor with the acetylene torch, letting it cool between heat applications, will eventually break the bond. In Ohio, that car would be considered extremely clean--well above average.

jdesaavedra
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Remeber internet. This repair is on a 2009 chevy equinox. Perfectly acceptable on this fine piece of automotive history

dannyoaks
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Induction heaters are great but you really need to have the appropriate size coils round the item you are trying to heat up. The tighter the coil round the item the more directed the heat will be

HootMaRoot
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Good morning to you sir, it’s been a long time since I have commented. I just wanted to let you know that we are still out there enjoying your videos and work. I also appreciate that your friends visit and help you with some of the work (Anthony,
A-Rod and others). That’s for the informative videos. More puppies!!!!
And Dave sightings. LOL!!

vc
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Mechanics now don't think outside the box like you do. Super rare

tobycurtis
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Use a hose clamp on the socket to keep from expanding or get a heavy impact socket and cut slot

StuartRadtke
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You could have just pulled the pins from the plug and put a box wrench on there to save the sensor if needed. So if you fail to remove it you can put the pins back in. I know you already know but take a pic of the plug before so you know we’re the pins go if need be. This info might not help you because your way better at this then me but it has helped me in the past. Great job as always Ray.

chadcoffman
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Loved this video! About that car stereo amplifier... I sold and installed them for years. There should be a yellow or blue wire coming off the head unit's harness that will be labeled something like REM (for "remote") or ANT (for power antenna turn-on). You can check it to see if it's switched by the car stereo's power switch - check for 12V to ground, that goes away when you turn off the head unit. On the amplifier there should be a similarly labeled "REM" or "ANT" terminal or wire. The head unit should be connected to that. That's the turn on for the amplifier. It only draws current when the radio is turned on, which should eliminate the draw-down problem. Of course, that's assuming it's an aftermarket amplifier as well as head unit. If the customer is using the factory amp with the aftermarket head unit, more investigation is needed. Hope this helps.

nancydon
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Cut it off and use a 2-3 foot breaker bar with a good socket. Most need that initial pop then screw out. Brace the exhaust with blocks to stop the bend. The heat tool also comes with smaller coils.

tlak
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It's a necessity like a torch in the Great White North for rusted stuck nuts/bolts. You also need a set of 1/2 size they are called sockets so like a 20.5mm instead of a 20mm type thing and this is for swollen nuts or rounded off nuts. You can cut the wires on the O2 sensor, hammer on a 1/2 size socket for a tight fit and then use it to break it loose. This is common for GM / Chrysler chrome wheel nuts that swell from the rust and you can't get them off using the right size but you can with a 1/2 size bigger. They are invaluable sockets to own for rounded off nuts and swollen nuts. They go well with your new tool too! No nut / bolt will ever not come off again!

CedroCron
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A 200W induction heater will need a long time on the nut before it gets real hot. Then you want to cool it quickly to break the rust that's gripping the bolt. Remember if you heat the bolt it expands and the thread it's installed in will expand less as it's not quite as hot as the bolt, or in this case the sensor. There's a lot of things to try using an induction heater.
Using acetylene to heat the thing you can concentrate the heat on the base where the sensor is threaded into it. This way you can heat the threaded part more than the the sensor do the hole will expand more than the sensor making it easier to remove. Still heat and cold is a good way of breaking the rust grip on the threads.

blahorgaslisk
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I've noticed that most O2 sockets have a beveled edge leading into the socket opening and most o2 sensors have a very small height on the hex portion. I ground the socket so it was square at the opening and they hold much better.

jeffer
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you gotta use the correct heating element size around that O2 nut. if it's too large gap it won't heat it up properly. And you gotta keep it on the till it starts glowing orange/red and then you can get the O2 socket.

leeitme
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Put a hose clamp or 3 on the sensor socket after placing over sensor, prevents it spreading, worked for me once, just a thought, rather you than me working on those rust buckets.

flanjo.NZ.
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I like the warning on the side of it.

FOR ALL THOSE MECHANICS AND TECHNICIANS WITH PACE MAKERS

Derek-GMM
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Induction heaters work, but you need the right size coil and a lot more heating time.

yogibarista
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Induction heaters are an absolute must. Heat up only the part you want without risking damage to the surrounding area. We have two at the shop i work at

not-a-raccoon
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That’s a much better spot for the O2 sensor as well so good job Ray

ChuckyBeaver
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Next time, try the metal hose clamp that screws together and put that oxygen sensor socket inside it. Screw it tight at the bottom of that socket so it's extra tight around the oxygen sensor. That and heat work really well together. The hose clamp keeps the oxygen sensor socket from opening up as you apply torque

tyrantlocator
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I tore the threads out of my 2012 Sierra . But they made a tap to re-chace the threads and it worked great! I feel so bad about your oil leak on the Raido!

leegunter
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