Building a Heavy-Duty, Mobile Miter Saw Station

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Over the years, we’ve featured a number of different miter saw stations, some of them taking up an entire wall. The one shown here hits what I consider a sweet spot in terms of size and features. The drop-down wings on either side of the cabinet open out to provide over eight feet of workpiece support. Below the saw is a compartment for a dedicated shop vacuum. And the whole thing is mounted on casters, so it can easily be tucked away when not in use.



#woodworking #woodworkingplans #woodworkingproject #woodworkingprojects #mitersawstand #mitersawstation #woodsmithplans #woodsmithshop #woodsmithmagazine #diy
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Thanks for the example. One thing I might add to the project is magnets on the support for the wings. This would be a quick way to keep them in place while folded out.

TheSaskachewan
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Great project, not all miter saws are the same width as to the one you made your cabinet for. I built this stand for my Ryobi 12" slide glide miter. I had to make adjustments for it to fit

bigsparky
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These are the kinds of build videos I absolutely appreciate. Slow, clear, step by step instructions without the quick camera cuts or loud music in the background throughout the whole video. Although I wish you hadn't skipped the installation of the hinges and the blocks for the wings. I'm more of a visual learner so seeing that process would've helped a lot. Anyways, thank you.

wwfera
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I just built it with some minor mods. Narrowed the top slightly. Added a 1/4” x 2” hardwood strip on the top of each side to ensure the wings hang vertically. Rather than just a block to support the wings I had some large adjustable furniture feet. I epoxied a couple of coupling nuts in a chunk of 2x4, screwed that to the wing supports and installed the furniture feet in the coupling nuts. That gives me about +/- 1/2” of adjustment. I opted for no doors but added a shelf. Used a 2x4 for the caster plate rather than hardwood. The casters mount in threaded inserts. I bought an auto switch for the vac and added a homemade cord wrap at the back. I also put some slots in a piece of hardboard and some inserts in the back of the case. The hardboard mounts to the case using machine knobs into the inserts and can be raised up to contain some of the dust the shop vac doesn’t catch but can be lowered to give full range of motion to the saw. Ran the pieces through Cutlist Optimizer and would up using about 1 2/3 sheets of plywood, it would have been close to a full 2 sheets with doors. Overall very happy.

thomassciurba
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I really enjoyed watching this build. Y'all take the time to explain things in detail and make something that could seem impossible for a newbie actually doable. Love it! Also, the guy with the thick just commit to it dude, go ahead and go full mutton chops! 👍😁

Excellent instructions! I'm so glad you offer full plans on your website! Thank you!

karenmiller
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Nice build. I think I would use the Rockler workbench castors so after you roll the cart to where you're working you can lift the wheels and the carcass sits on the ground for more stability.

MichaelBrown-kkck
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This is one of two really good mobile miter saw station videos on YouTube and no one makes one with better structural integrity. Thank you.

markkoons
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¡Qué placer veros trabajar, gracias por compartir el vídeo!
¡Internet es una hermosa herramienta!

luisestevesirvent
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Just bought the plans and looking forward to building this. Question: I've never cut tongue and groove joints before, can someone explain the reason for the sacrificial fence and how that works? Seems to me that you can raise the dado blade to 1/2" and set the fence at 1/4", right? Am I missing something?

RyanSilhavy
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The plans included a materials list and supposedly, a cutting diagram. The cutting diagram was for the caster plates (trivial). No cutting diagram for the three sheets of ($84 per sheet) plywood. I can figure out the cutting diagram (probably not optimally), but it would have been nice to have one provided.

thomaswierman
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I really enjoy watching the project videos published on this channel and I have purchased some of the plans that are available for the projects. I have the plan for the combination router table that Don had done two of the videos to show how the cabinet was built using mdf. On either the first or second video, Don had some shop built jigs for holding the pieces in place once they were placed in the dados that had a cross cut in them. I wanted to make some of them for myself but I would like to know the dimensions of the blocks and if they are just one piece of mdf or two pieces glued together before the cross cut was made. I would also like to know the dimensions of the right angle positioning clamping squares that Don used to keep the pieces at 90 degrees that Don had placed during the dry fit of the cabinet

charlesdavis
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Looking at the video and at the plan in Woodsmith #248 brings a question to my mind : is the way the cabinet sides extend over the shelf where the saw is located would not interfere with the rotation of the saw when setting miter cuts? The Bosch miter saw will go to an angle of up to 50 degrees on the left and 60 degrees on the right... I'm planning on building it with the same saw I already own. However this detail is tickling me... Is this something you guys at Woodsmith tought about? It might seem an unimportant detail, but since my shop is quite tiny, I usually rotate the saw to the right when not in use so it minimizes its footprint "out of the shelf" so it does not hangs over so I don't risk hitting it or bumping on it...

Patrick_Robitaille
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I built this one by following along the magazine. I put a tape on mine, left and right side of the blade.

TankFlipster
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A more precise way to measure for the cleats for the top shelf would be clamp two squares from the top of the plywood edge then bring the cleats to the blade of the squares. And the cleats shouldn't go directly underneath that line but the edge of the cleats should go precisely on top of that line.

eugenelayhue
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Another good compact option that is very usable.

MrPhoenix
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Saludos cordiales desde Ecuador excelente mesa para esa máquina, , muy bien planificado para poder ocupar al máximo el espacio d trabajo de pronto me puede ayudar con las medidas??, , gracias x compartir el vídeo, , bendiciones

josecabascango
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One thing that will affect the long term survival of the stand is that the support wings don't fold flat/vertically, there is always pressure on the relatively flimsy piano hinges trying to rip them off - even butt hinges will eventually pull their screws loose. You should add a spacer block about 1.5 inches thick at the top of the side panels on the outside, then screw the hinge to that. Then the support panels will be hanging off the hinges, no sideways pressure. Only downside is if you let sawdust and shavings accumulate in the gap, or forget a pencil or something similar in there.

brucelee
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While I liked Mr. Wittmer's use of a square to verify that the wing was level, however it seems that method only assumes that the miter saw shelf is precisely level with the case. I suggest that it would be better to use the shelf, in lieu of the case, for a reference point. Otherwise, great presentation.

jonlegato
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Should the trick with the square to set the shelf height take into account the height of the shelf? Otherwise it seems like the saw’s table would be taller than the height of the sides of the cabinet.

adamqp
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Curious as to the make of the track saw. It's unusual to see such a machine with the blade on the left, especially here in the UK.

CP-duci
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